Trent

A very tasty bushwack it was. I only thought about pushing the button (the PLB) three or four times.

Damn Gumbies. Even off route here!

Trip: Colchuck Peak - NE Couloir Date: 6/6/2012 Trip Report: STORYLINE: Two gumbies bumble onto the incorrect route without gear. Must consternation, including wringing of hands and rending of garments ensues. Gumbies prevail and finish the route, summit glory attained. All is well. NARRATIVE: Our two super-heroes, Gumb and Gumber, needed something low commitment and fun to climb. Perusing the TRs on CC.com, the NBC on Colchuck Peak was chosen. The pictures were studied closely, and it was decided to leave the rope at home. After parking below the forest pass required sign (Gumb forgot his parking pass), the trail to the Colchuck Lake was beat into submission. Heads down huffing and puffing up the Colchuck Glacier, our brave but myopic protagonists started climbing the obvious couloir. "Let's climb here!" The bergshrund was a bit spicy, but the snow bridge held under Gumber’s prodigious weight. Up and up an ever steepening and narrowing couloir the gumbies climbed. Gumb was thinking, “Stupid camera tilt! Those pictures on CC.com sure looked easier than this!” while Gumber thought, “Man, I am out of shape. This “easy snow couloir” is really kicking by gumby rear! I gotta stop riding that stupid ass Pokey to Krispy Kreme! I need to start walking there instead!” Getting narrower! I am out of shape! They climbed on and on up steeper steps and runnels. Gumb started to curse the sandbaggers on CC.com. They came to a split in the couloir, and went right. The steepening slot ended in a spot of mixed climbing underneath a cornice. Gumb went up to take a look. Not being able to see above it, he backed down. “Curse those knuckle-dragging posters!” he screamed to Gumber. “There were no pictures of this alpine chicanery in the TRs!” He would have flopped down and beat his head against something, but the slope angle precluded this stress relieving measure. Dreading the down-climb, the intrepid bumblers backed down and tried the left-hand split. Low and behold, it went! There were no pictures of this! Where is Pokey when I need him? Topping out east of the summit, Gumber was confused. “All those posers on CC are AFU; this is not the north face! What peak are we on?” he wondered. Gumb was convinced that a worm-hole had opened up in the space-time continuum and transported them either to another dimension or maybe across to another couloir. Upon further investigation, the Mensa candidates discovered that they had climbed the incorrect route! Seeing as how this kind of simple error could never happen to alpine superstars like themselves, blame was laid square on the shoulders of cc.com and the myriad of posters. “They need to make those stupid TRs easier to understand!” Gumb grumbled. “Pokémon! Not our bad!” Gumber seconded. Where am I? Gumbies prevail; summit glory attained! Wanting at least one aspect of the trip to go as planned, the pair traversed over to Dragontail to tick that peak. On the way down, they saw tracks heading up the Triple Couloirs. “I bet they brought their rope!” Gumb pooh-poohed. Finally on route! Can't get lost here! The walk out was uneventful; no route finding errors occurred. Back at the car basking in summit glory and a bit of alcohol induced euphoria, the gumbies did their trademark choreographed high-five hand slap dance. (Don’t ask). “We rock!” Gumb proclaimed. “We rule!” Gumber replied. The route (Not the NBC) Gear Notes: To avoid needing more gear, get on the correct route. Used and wanted two tools, rope and gear not used. Approach Notes: Trail snow free to the lake.

Pictures: The face looked thin, but maybe with some colder weather it could come into condition.

Having participated in this rescue and a few others, both military and civilian, these guys are the best. Professional and competent, they ensured that the outcome would be positive. Much thanks!

Jason: Awesome pictures as usual. Thanks for the great trip and fun company! Some more pictures: Jason doing some hut-work On top of the Onion Can't tell if I am moving or not!

Tom: Thats quite an accomplishment; I don't think even Dallas had finished the list. What's next, the repulsive 69?

Steph: It's a great way to see the mountains and scope routes, is'nt it! I'm getting some good views of a few 20Kers over here, but don't envision much climbing happening here any time soon.

Nice climb Chris! I’m jealous; I only get to plan future climbs for the next two months, although I am getting some good views of a few 20000 footers!

The helo in question was a Navy SH-60 Seahawk, the Navy version of the Blackhawk

Awesome photos as usual Jason. Keep em coming; I have to get my alpine fix looking at them instead of taking them now!

Awesome pictures as usual Jason. Thanks for putting it all together and making it happen. Great partners make the trip, and in this case the trip was excellent. More photos: 100 year old summit register. They had a cook along on the expedition! Jason making the move on Gunsight. The yoga finally pays off! Approaching the summit of Gunsight. Jason leading up the North face on Sinister

Looks like a good Darrington adventure Tyson! Congrats!

Another great TR Tim; you tell a good story! Cant wait for the next one!

Awesome TR Tim! I love the first picture; is that a vuvuzela?

Trip: Repulse Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/20/2011 Trip Report: I was way behind. In the seemingly never ending quest for the Repulsive 69, I had been losing ground for the past two years to the crew. For the uninitiated, the Repulsive 69 are the top 69 most obscure and unaesthetic peaks the Cascade Range has to offer. If it is in a selected climbs guide, the peak is automatically rejected from the list for principles sake. I needed to reverse this disturbing trend and get back into the chase. At the annual peak bagging slide show, my talk of bolts, warm granite, and cragging had brought a round of snickers from the crowd. I needed to regain some semblance of authority and boost my self-worth a bit. What better peak to bag to show them that I was back than the namesake of the list, Repulse! The crew (Jason, AKA Snafflebait; Gord, AKA Alberto Tomba; Scott, AKA The Moatmaster; and Tim, AKA Perro Rapido), had bagged the peak in excellent style, nabbing the second ascent of the original route. See link . Their verdict; it deserved to be part of the list, being very repulsive. To regain some stature and put myself back in the running, I needed that peak! I had to put myself in the Repulse club! A wet crossing would have been better An early wake-up put me at Swamp Creek at 0700; it was still misting. Repulsive weather, appropriate! A quick stumble down to Granite Creek, and I found a log to cross at the perfect spot. Too convenient, this would not make a good repulsive story. Postholing through the timber was not so bad; at least the brush was under the snow. Initially, I climbed up into the overcast, but then it lifted as I proceeded up the valley. Not so repulsive. Starting to look promising The climb to gain the South Ridge was actually sort of enjoyable, all on snow with minimal postholing. Too straight forward Fisher Peak: Once on the ridge, I did a self-belay to cross a wet-snow filled gulley; somewhat repulsive but not enough. It might finish strong! The finish was all on rock, which was not even that loose and was somewhat dry. Fun! The original summit register was still on the peak, signed by the Fireys back in 1971. Pretty cool actually. The descent was actually sort of fun; a few rappels and a lot of boot skiing, with the unavoidable post holing back to the car. Over all, this peak was not that repulsive! I was somewhat disappointed, but since I had climbed it, I was not going to let on to the crew that I actually had fun doing so. The official story: It was a horror fest. I am lucky to be alive telling you this story. I will have to do some creative editing for the slideshow. Take that, crew! I am back! Repulse Peak: (not so repulsive) Gear Notes: Class 3/4, take the appropriate pro. Approach Notes: Follow the true right side of the un-named creek across the highway from Swamp Creek. Early season is nice to avoid brush in the upper valley.

Scott: I did not know that you were a local celebrity! Think about a climbing trip in December; I should have some time to kill!

All: Thanks for the pointers. Our rough itinerary includes diving at the Poor Knight Islands up North, Mt Taranaki, kayaking Able Tasman NP, Mt Aspiring (most probably the NW Ridge), the Copeland Track, Castle Hill, Cave Stream (near Castle Hill), and Mt Owen. More serious alpinism will hinge upon how well I recover (I just had the titanium rod pulled out of my femur). Weather will dictate if and when, the itinerary is open ended. Any other must see or favorite spots?

I am planning on a month long foray to New Zealand next month, and was wondering if anyone had some recommended trips, peaks, hikes, or places not to miss. The plan for the trip is light alpinism, hiking, and diving, with most time being spent on the south island. Thanks.

Jason: I have to work this weekend, or I would be keen. I need to get out and do something to keep my mind off of the recent happenings. I do know of one of the SAC members that was thinking of doing Silent Running or Dreamer; if you want his contact info let me know.

Well said Scott. Dallas was a friend and mentor, and will be greatly missed. Dallas was the climber that I aspired to be; capable, adept, and without ego. Dallas enjoyed introducing his passion for climbing to others; he was known for lending a hand to all on Mt Erie, and would invite anyone who was keen on his alpine adventures. Dallas was affectionately known as the "Energizer Bunny". On many alpine routes, all of us 25 years and more his junior would be sitting around catching our breath when the question would be asked, "Where's Dallas?" One only had to look toward the summit for the answer. Always positive, always extremely saavy, Dallas was the consumate partner. One amazing fact about Dallas was that in his over 50 years of climbing, he never had an unplanned bivy. He would always take the lead on the pitches that no one else wanted, and had a knack for getting it done. The mountains will not be the same; climbing for me will not be the same. I was lucky to know Dallas as a friend, and feel honored to be his climbing partner. A few pictures from recent climbs: Dallas on the sharp end on the Minuteman Dallas getting ready to go on Liberty Bell Bailing off of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse Blackbeard Peak On the sharp end again on Chair Peak Another approach J-Berg. Rockfall had broken my finger in the CJ couloir two years prior, and I was still somewhat freaked by the place. Dallas got me up it though, for his seventh summit of the peak. J-Berg Index, North Peak

Steph: A great TR with some outstanding pictures as usual. You really have an amazing talent with the camera. It was a great trip with quality partners. But I am still holding out for Robson!

Dallas: Wow! 48 years between acsents! Your memory for choss must be good!

Steph: Thanks for the great company, fun trip, and awesome TR. Your pictures are inspiring and beautiful as usual.

Donn: Another (how many is it now?) great trip to the Pickets! At least it was better than the one last year! Missed you up on Rainier this weekend. Jason says that you have a story about Ptarmigan Ridge?