KaskadskyjKozak

Trip: Icicle Buttress - R&D Date: 5/4/2008 Trip Report: I know this is ho-hum for must rock-jocks here, but my TR to Spray ratio sucks. I drove up from the Eastside and met two guys at the Snow Creek TH Sunday at about 9. They had been top-roping all day the day before up to 5.10b, but still considered themselves "newbies". I suggested we do an easy multipitch and we drove up to Icicle Buttress to take a look. We saw two parties en route - the second was about halfway through the 2nd pitch, so we hiked up to the base of the climb and geared up. I've never been up R&D and was going by a route description from SummitPost. The description mentioned heading up to some easy cracks and a slab with bolts. I saw some shiny bolts over an awkward bulging start and no cracks, and some older bolts next to a "gash". We opted for the latter. The slab had some lichen and my footing was a little sketchy, but that eased off and I seemed to be on route. I ran the rope out to close to 200 feet and belayed the two followers (the middle guy dragged a second rope). The second pitch went well too, with mostly easy terrain and a few moves. I ran the rope up close to the chimney, but I think I ended up too far up, and had to set up a belay from a smallish ledge. This freaked out my 2nd especially when he saw a biner was caught on the runner on one of the anchors and was almost coming off (I looped a flake with one runner and girth-hitched a separate chock with a second, so we were good with a back-up). Third pitch was short and super easy. The few moves in the chimney were hella fun. One thing worth noting: as I placed my first piece below the chimney I saw a small snake slither in a horizontal crack. I don't know if it was a rattler or not. I moved above it quickly. The fourth pitch started with a near fall. A few moves into the right crack (5.7) I stepped up and somehow caught some of my pieces and/or a runner from my rack harness on the piece I had just placed. I couldn't move up, and couldn't clear the problem directly, so I just unclipped a piece and a runner and shook them loose and moved up. My follower moving up the right-most crack on the fourth pitch. At this point I saw a tree and thought that was the spot to belay from (as per the route description). So I belayed my followers, and then looked for the walk-off. Ooops. We weren't done. So we did a fifth pitch to make it interesting. I zipped up the crack with about 6 cams and topped out quickly. KK ready to walk off. The walk-off sucked, and I think I put some permanent scratches on my climbing shoes on the way down. We got off the trail somehow. We only carried up some water and food (the 2nd did) and not shoes. Temps were in the 70's, sunny, PERFECT. We enjoyed a beer at the car and drove home. View up the route after our descent - time for a beer! It took way too long (5 hours?) but we didn't hold anybody up. One party almost caught up to use on the "5th" pitch. Gear Notes: Nuts, Hexes, Cams up C4 #4, green and yellow alien. Approach Notes: Walk off sucks.

Thanks for the TR, OW. FW and I were thinking of doing this one over the past few weeks. I've never been up it myself, and it looks fun.

Did you see the one guy hit the log, go under, then bail from his kayak and float downstream? Or was there even more craziness going on?

I was there yesterday climbing R&D with two beginner climbers who followed all the way. No crowds (so we didn't hold anyone up) and a beautiful day. Awesome.

That's sweet of ya! Turns out, there was no mad rush at REI. Guess the economy really is affecting people's buying habits. I wasn't too overwhelmed/overexcited about the sale once I saw it though. There really wasn't all that much on sale that I was looking for. I didn't realize how seasonal that place is--they didn't have any ski stuff available. Bummer. But, I did get a wetsuit that fits! Again, wasn't on sale, but I used that 20% off for members deal. Did anyone else go? See anything that just shouldn't be missed? I'm not a good in-person shopper, so I could have missed something obvious that every person simply must have. I bought a windshirt.

pink AND kevbone are back be afraid.

Same woman for 27 years.......I'd say I have depth, but not breath. she must have a big rack if you get smothered.

be careful or you guys might run into KK.

I think if you asked folks in the Forest Service they would say that it will indeed take years and probably decades to repair the damage done from years of neglect. Take a look at the press releases coming from Wa Department of Ecology about crumbling forest roads and fisheries habitat. Consider how long it took to complete environmental review and complete planning and politics necessary to re-open the Mountain Loop Highway. Read a little about the backlog in roadway and trail projects. It is not just as simple as a "line item." I doubt this is on Obamalama's radar screen. My first point is you'll see little change from his admin, but you'll still blame W. My second point is you can improve a hell of a lot within just 4 years and don't need "decades". Sorry, but excuses don't cut it. As for Mtn. Loop yeah it took years to do - in the current environment and budget. The "politics" of that problem of course are more due to left-wing-nut greens than to W's budget cuts.

It'll take decades to change a budgetary line item? Bullshit.

Keep posting dude, and ignore the playa-haters!

When Obama's presidency ends the fee structure will still be there. I'll bet you a pitcher of beer on that.

Again you put words into my mouth. Pretty typical from you.

W saw into Putin's soul

who? i thought we were talking about Kevbone.

Are you saying the USFS is a "bloated" agency or was before the the "consolidation" you cite above? I never said it was bloated.

Outside of Washington I've seen bears in Glacier NP on the Iceberg Lake Trail. We drove into the park from the West, and did the touristy drive up the Going to the Sun Road. We didn't get to Many Glacier until late afternoon - set up camp and decided to quickly do the Iceberg Lake Trail. 20 minutes into the hike we saw a black bear about 100 meters off to the left and below. A couple hours later, on the way back there was a bear ON the trail. We made lots of noise and he/she wouldn't move off. He was hungry and grazing on plants. Eventually we got him off the trail - but only by about 15 feet. It was getting dusk, and not a good time to be "out" around black bears, so I got out the pepper spray and stood right in front of the bear while the family passed behind me, then followed them. I wanted to photograph the bear but my wife got really pissed "WTF are you doing?". Over the next week in the park we didn't see another bear.

He's in Mexico. Enjoy the respite.

In the Cascades: 1) Above the Cascade Pass trail, near the pass, where you traverse talus 2) On the road to Boulder Ridge Trail (Baker) - early season. We saw one bear, and soon afterwards a second. That's it.

Dude, STFU.

perhaps the expanding width of the trails is due to the expanding width of the hikers.

I think you're stretching it. Indeed!

I can confirm that while "trekking" my pole widens "trails".

Just how much would it actually cost to adequately fund the NFS? A few hundred million? A couple billion? I'm sure it's chump change compared to the other line items in the federal budget.

Bullshit. Haven't the visitors centers had a *separate* parking fee since they opened? You know, your NW forest pass doesn't cut it, and neither does a NPS annual pass even with a "golden eagle" sticker or whatever the add-on is called these days. You pay yet another fee. And hasn't this been the case since long before W was in office? Haven't there always been separate climbing permits for MSH - predating the current administration? As for the "you" in your statement about wanting less money going to the USFS - sorry, but *I* have never expressed any such preference. *I* want the NPS and USFS to be adequately funded to support normal operations of their facilities, including maintenance, repairs, etc. I expect upkeep of access and facilities. *I* don't expect some third party to take a slice of the permit cost and to be fleeced just to enjoy a hike up a friggin' snow slog. "Climbing" Mt saint helens is arguably less of an outing than hiking to Camp Muir, and I certainly don't get charged $22 a pop to do that (especially with my annual NPS card). Nice try with your tiresome pidgeon-holing.