KaskadskyjKozak

Thanks. Only one of us had a camera, and he hasn't sent me the photos yet...

yep.

If having a strong stance about the environment and the state of my favorite recreation, climbing, makes me "self-righteous", so be it. Continue your placid acceptance of the status-quo. By such standards, then, you must be worth about $5??? zxGejqxN2WY

Kevbone is more like a case of Giardia.

A STEAMING HELPING OF SHUT THE FUCK UP! Damn good spray Hugh..... When you were in Mexico, WE also had a nice vacation, boner.

somebody warned me that when you go in the crack to the right your rope can get stuck in a crack there, so I was careful to put in a piece with a single runner (with a knot tied in it to shorten it) to keep the rope out of that crack. Matt: is Midway direct really that much harder than the variation to the right? Why do you say it's not for beginners?

it was green with a yellow stripe, I believe. Not a rubber boa. I did a quick google search and my guess is that it was a garter snake: http://www.bentler.us/eastern-washington/animals/snakes/common-garter-snake.aspx

No, it was definitely a snake.

Not Castle Rock, but... does anyone have a topo of Champaign up on Snow Creek wall? Or can point me to a book that does - something better than what is in "Leavenworth Rock"?

Yeah, it sucks so bad... can't you tell by all the SMILES on those faces. Thanks for the cool post/photos!

that really sucks. people can be so ignorant and selfish.

how about starting with a TR of your own before shitting on someone else's?

obviously the joke went over your head.

What's IB?

I went up to CR on a nice warm day last October and there was only a few other parties there. It was very enjoyable.

hmmmm....I was considering taking my wife up this climb, but I'm rethinking it if the walk-off is really that bad. Well apparently we were just "idiots" according to our 2-post wonder above (who, BTW, can go lick s...) Just bring up the tennis shoes. My rock shoes are 1/2 size smaller than my street shoes, so my griping is mostly due to the excruciating pain from banging my toes into the front of my shoes. The sand chafing inside the shoes was only salt on the wounds.

It's funny, I was justing asking CBS about Cat Burgler and he recommended aiding that first move on the route. Good job getting off the ground cleanly!

I'm glad we didn't head over to Castle Rock... that was my second possible idea for a multipitch. The route right of Jello Tower - could it be Winter Solstice (5.6, traverses under a bulge)?

Isn't it SOP that whenever a cop uses a firearm in the line of duty, they are immediately put on administrative leave (or whatever you call it - they get paid but don't have a weapon or the same responsibilities) pending a full investigation, where they must fully account for their actions? And in the sensational cases, even if proved "justified" said cops often retire or encouraged to do so? I think cops are definitely accountable and really raked over the coals whenever they use their weapons in the line of duty.

several miles and 3500 foot gain if memory serves me. but that's if you camp on snow / leave no trace which should be easy early season.

Yeah, guide and ropegun. I told the guys if I took a bad fall, they'd have to rap down somehow and call the helicopter.

Trip: Icicle Buttress - R&D Date: 5/4/2008 Trip Report: I know this is ho-hum for must rock-jocks here, but my TR to Spray ratio sucks. I drove up from the Eastside and met two guys at the Snow Creek TH Sunday at about 9. They had been top-roping all day the day before up to 5.10b, but still considered themselves "newbies". I suggested we do an easy multipitch and we drove up to Icicle Buttress to take a look. We saw two parties en route - the second was about halfway through the 2nd pitch, so we hiked up to the base of the climb and geared up. I've never been up R&D and was going by a route description from SummitPost. The description mentioned heading up to some easy cracks and a slab with bolts. I saw some shiny bolts over an awkward bulging start and no cracks, and some older bolts next to a "gash". We opted for the latter. The slab had some lichen and my footing was a little sketchy, but that eased off and I seemed to be on route. I ran the rope out to close to 200 feet and belayed the two followers (the middle guy dragged a second rope). The second pitch went well too, with mostly easy terrain and a few moves. I ran the rope up close to the chimney, but I think I ended up too far up, and had to set up a belay from a smallish ledge. This freaked out my 2nd especially when he saw a biner was caught on the runner on one of the anchors and was almost coming off (I looped a flake with one runner and girth-hitched a separate chock with a second, so we were good with a back-up). Third pitch was short and super easy. The few moves in the chimney were hella fun. One thing worth noting: as I placed my first piece below the chimney I saw a small snake slither in a horizontal crack. I don't know if it was a rattler or not. I moved above it quickly. The fourth pitch started with a near fall. A few moves into the right crack (5.7) I stepped up and somehow caught some of my pieces and/or a runner from my rack harness on the piece I had just placed. I couldn't move up, and couldn't clear the problem directly, so I just unclipped a piece and a runner and shook them loose and moved up. My follower moving up the right-most crack on the fourth pitch. At this point I saw a tree and thought that was the spot to belay from (as per the route description). So I belayed my followers, and then looked for the walk-off. Ooops. We weren't done. So we did a fifth pitch to make it interesting. I zipped up the crack with about 6 cams and topped out quickly. KK ready to walk off. The walk-off sucked, and I think I put some permanent scratches on my climbing shoes on the way down. We got off the trail somehow. We only carried up some water and food (the 2nd did) and not shoes. Temps were in the 70's, sunny, PERFECT. We enjoyed a beer at the car and drove home. View up the route after our descent - time for a beer! It took way too long (5 hours?) but we didn't hold anybody up. One party almost caught up to use on the "5th" pitch. Gear Notes: Nuts, Hexes, Cams up C4 #4, green and yellow alien. Approach Notes: Walk off sucks.

Thanks for the TR, OW. FW and I were thinking of doing this one over the past few weeks. I've never been up it myself, and it looks fun.

Did you see the one guy hit the log, go under, then bail from his kayak and float downstream? Or was there even more craziness going on?

I was there yesterday climbing R&D with two beginner climbers who followed all the way. No crowds (so we didn't hold anyone up) and a beautiful day. Awesome.