TrogdortheBurninator

name 25 better crags. hell, name 5 better crags.

We have had our dog since last July, and only now are the cats starting to hang out with us in the same room as the dog. Just two days ago, for the first time, one of the cats hung out on our bed while the dog was there. Definitely a very slow process getting them to adjust.

http://www.mammothgear.com/shop/shopexd.asp?id=24063&bc=no FR+ for $255

I thought Professor Falls was THE classic 4 of the rockies.

I have a mammut 8.5mm and some bluewater 8.6s. I would say the mammut has the stiffer feel of the two. Beal lists an 8.8 pro mountain that is available bi-color at 47 g/m. Not sure if it is available stateside.

i think the only single lighter than the joker is the mammut 8.9, which saves a wopping 1 g/m

you belay double ropes with two hands at all times? must be hard to belay from the back of the short bus.

dreamer is the best moderate rock climb i've done in the NW

the line at lovers leap is pretty cool

thanks for the update. bummer on the news. i had considered driving up there on saturday, but feared finding what you reported. cross your fingers for minimal damage.

looks sweet Mr. Feck. I was wondering how your trip went. Must be nice getting back to the big fun trips again!!!

linking pitches means climbing two or more pitches as one "long" pitch.

I have tried the tennis shoes with strap on crampons thing a few times, and found it incredibly uncomfortable. I ended buying some garmont vetta plus http://www.trailspace.com/gear/garmont/vetta-plus/. They are about 3/4 pound heavier per pair than a midtop soft soled shoe (like the ones Blake posted). They accept semi-auto crampons (saves a bit of weight) and the sole is sufficiently stiff to kick steps while still being ok on rock. The ankle gives a very wide range of motion. Biggest downside is they are ridiculously non-waterproof.

Hi Peter, If Paul had ventured up a route that his partner was uncomfortable with as a roped companion, it probably isnt entirely reasonable to expect the partner to head back up that same route alone. It also needs to be understood that the concept of overdue is highly subjective. Without knowing the timeline, it is hard to speculate specifics, but a few hours late over the course of a climb is not typically a concern. In winter, as nightfall approaches it does become a concern, especially seeing as your brother left behind so much of his gear.

reading comp.... when the road isnt blocked, you dont walk far on the road and you dont deal with the annoyances. I dont think many people enjoy the fumes etc. kicked up by motorbikes and sleds while they are out trying to enjoy the outdoors. At the same time, I suspect the percent of users with access to motorbikes, and a desire to use cascade pass area, is fairly small and overall wont affect most human powered users.

How many mounties/boealps/et al. successful difficult rescues have been carried out over the years where these essential skills have actually been put to the test in a non-trivial manner? Are these trained groups really any less likely to need the help of SAR professionals than their self taught or informally taught cohort.

elevation, length, objective hazard, heavy pack.... even though "only" 5.9, these factors make for a very extreme endeavor. Still, unless it is a rockiesesque sandbag, 5.9 should represent the crux pure rock moves.

5.9

are you sure that isnt 4100m? i.e. the length

more clothes is warmer as long as they are dry. Some people prefer to drape their belay jacket over the top of themselves instead of wearing it, so you compress less of the insulation.

awesome trip!!

check PMs noob

gotta get with the times:

grrrr! good luck getting em back kurt.

way too many knots in the first two. Just wondering, but where did you learn to use a cordalette (honest question, no offense intended)? In #1, middle nut on left might be positioned a bit low. Third anchor looks ok, but it looks like there are some bomber midsize stopper placements there that are likely stronger than the microcams, and would save the micros for another pitch (if this is top of climb, disregard last half of statement).