Dr_Crash

That post above yours mentionning they need to wait for BD's double axle patent to expire might be the reason. I understand the argument that the cam covers more range than any other cam. They claim one can replace 2. Sure, but who wants to halve his opportunities to add protection and double the fall distance? And if you don't, say hi to more weight and more $$$ out of pocket... drC

It would be very nice if we could get something like what the Colorado Avalanche Center publishes: http://geosurvey.state.co.us/avalanche/Default.aspx?tabid=106 Very easy to read (doesn't exempt you from reading the full forecast though!). I have seen that thing *entirely* black: a good day to bike or stay inbounds The friends of the NW Avalanche Center site also has a blog. (Or had? The site isn't working tonight.) http://www.avalanchenw.org/blog/ . People post their observations and you can read them. If you head into the BC it's nice to post here when you return so that people can get live data. drC

Click on this link and the discount should be applied automatically. The discount is good on everything including items already on sale... Enjoy. Discount expires 12/10/04. Oh, please post good deals to be had on that store? No time to browse the whole thing... drC

12 pt crampons where $20 then too, apparently. drC

$200 to $250 for a used pair. Or $300 retail (less street) for a pair of these brand new: (Marketing page at http://www.omegapac.com/op_alpine_alpha.html.) So are those bad, or are Grivel/Charlet/BD overpriced? drC

Re-re-re-re-re-re-recycled and getting old. drC

Woot! Thanks NoLSE. I've been waiting for that 2.6 oz windshirt to go on sale drC

I was thinking of asking michael_layton to make a T-shirt. drC

Nope. I mean, I called and the two pairs are sold now, but the thread you quoted is about my friend and I asking whether the boots are okay, not trying to sell them (pretty difficult as we don't have a pair to sell!). The yard sale would be a better forum for that anyway We'll see if the second pair surfaces there... drC

You say walk on your lawn but then you illustrate that with an icon of your . I think the latter is where those crampons would be headed to! drC

If you'd size them as rock shoes, the toes argument definitely makes sense. Those boots actually come with dual points (and one can get rid of the heelp spur too; given how stiff I am I won't be heel-hooking anything anytime soon ), so they would work for regular WI I'd wager. I just got a pair of Freney XT for alpine and ice, actually, so I am just curious about these. They're outrageous and overkill, but really cheap (most likely because they're outrageous and overkill); a cheap pair of boots to kill is better than an expensive pair of boots to kill, even over a few seasons. Now a cheap pair of boots that won't work is still too expensive which is why I am asking for opinions. (Really, SnowByrd took on her to ask, but I'm interested .) drC

Mixed: yes. WI: no. Interesting. Why would say no for WI? Given that the boots were specifically designed for ice comps, it sounds like it should be an application. drC

Yummy Likely not good for your typical glacier / alpine travel unless you carry them in your pack as you would rock shoes. But to go trash on waterfall ice and practice drytooling, and save the nicer alpine boots for alpine, why not? And don't forget that these could help you solve issues in meetings when you need to look serious threatening to kick ass. drC

Thanks Dru/Don. That's what I wanted to know. Would you say the Quark is a better tool than the Aztar? The Aztar is lighter I think, and have read it's a "lightened version of the Quark for alpine" though we all know marketing will say whatever they want... drC

Can't find it, search is limited to a month (boo). Can the author bump it or PM me so we can exchange info? Thanks, drC

Dumb question: does anybody expect to be able to put those shafts in snow (plunging, or for belay or whatever though boot-ax belays are weird anyway)? I know that Petzl say that it's one of the nice features of the Aztar for instance, and it's the ax that backcountrygear.net puts in their alpine ice package. The shaft is straighter too. I'll try to borrow tools before I have to buy some so I can get some experience with a few, but if I wanted a set of ice tools for alpine climbing, would the Aztar be a better choice than the Quark? Or will the Quark be just as nice (though a bit heavier) and perform better when playing on waterfall ice? Aztar: drC - Ice newbie.

QQQQQQQ QQXXX*QQQ QQQQ QXXXXXX**QQQQXXX**Q QQQQQQQQ X*$$$$$$*XXXXXXXXXXQQQQQ..QQQQQQQ $$******$$****XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*QXXQ $********X$X**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX**QXXQ ***$$$$$$$$$**XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX**QXXQ **$**XQQXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*QXXQ *$XX*QMMMQQ$QXXXXQQQQ$$$QQQQ*XXXQXXQ $XXXQ***/////***Q*XXXXXXXXXX*QQ*XXXXQ XXXXXXXXX$.$XXQ***///,,///***'QQ$$QQQ $XXQ$***////,,,,,....**..*QXXXXXXXXXXQ $XXXQQ***//,,,,.*Q$*'''* //*QXXXXXXXQ *XXXX$Q**//,,L ;$Q .../*QXXXXXX*XQ XXXXXQ***/,... *$ .*QQQQ$ .*QXXXX$QXXQ XXXXQ *. . .Q$Q $'' .*QQXXX$*XQQ XXXX$Q$$$Q., ,Q $Q' ./**QQ$XX**XQQ XXX$ .,.,.. 1 .. .,/**QXQX***X$ XXQ . *Q$''Q.. ,,... .,/QQX***XQ X$ *'Q$$* ... .,Q, ../QXQ***XQ * *Q*QQ' ,,. $Q 1. *XQ**XQ $Q **//,,.. * Q$ *... *QXX*XX QXX ***//,. *,Q .. ..* *QXX*X *QX$ XQ**/, . .*Q$$*** .,$XXXX* QXX*' XX'*&&&// . *Q$$Q*Q$$* .,*/QXXXXQ QXXXX*Q XXXXQ&&&&/, ., Q$Q**Q$$Q*,.. &Q&&$XXXXXXXXXXQXQ XXXXX$&&&&// ..Q*$$$Q*',. &Q&&&QXXXXXXXXXQXX$ XXXXXX'Q&&&&//,. .,. //*'&&/&$XXX*Q*XXXXQ XXXXXXXXQ&&&//,,L .. ,//Q*&&//&QXMMM$$QQ*- Q$*XXXXXX$&&///,,...... .//*$&&///&&$X///////M$$$QQQQ***-. QXXXWXXXXXX$&//,,..,,///Q$'&&&//,//&QXM***&&&///,,*1/,.../1$Q* XXXXXXXQXXXXX$QQ*-**Q$/'&&&&&//,,,/&QXQM**&&&,../DP/,.. ,PQ* XXXXXXXQXXXXXXX$&&/,,//////&&//,,,/&&$XQM*&&&,.&PD&/,. '$Q XXXXXXQ$XXXXXXXXQ&///,..,//&&&//,,,/&&Q**Q$MM//QD&/,. '$Q PQXQXXXXXXXXXXXXXX$&///,.,/&Q..,,,///&&&M*&&//,DD&/,.. ..$ $1QXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX'Q&///,.,/Q...,,,//&&&///Q',OO&/,... .,,8 &&&&QXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXQ&///',/&Q...,,,//&&Q$..//PO&/,..... ..,///PQ DDDDQQXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*Q$&&///&&Q...,,,&Q$..,,//QDQ&&&///,,... ..,///&&&&&3Q DDDD$ 1QXXXXXXXXXXXQ$&&&Q&&//.&Q$../&Q...,/////*O3MN&&&&////,,......,,//&&33Q DDP$ '**QQ$QX*Q$&&//&&$Q&//.&Q..*Q.,/////JJJN*$PMMMN&&&&&///,,,,///&&&&&33$ &&Q$ Q$&&///,//&&*Q&/&$...$..,,,///JJNNNQ$QMMMN&&&&&&////,,..,,//&&&3 &&Q $&&///,,L,///&&Q&&//..&&/////&&&NNNMMMQ$QMMMMNN&&&&&&/////,,.../&& DQ *Q&&&///M/.,,///&&Q&&///,,,/&&&&&&&&&&*&Q$$*MMMMMNNN&&&&&&////,,.../ Q Q*&&&&//NMN&&,///&&$&&//,,,//&&&&&&&&&&***JDD//PPJMMMNN&&&///,,..&&&& Q Q*&&&&//NMMN&&&&&&&QNNM&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&JFAAF//AA&&&&&&&AAA///,,,../ Q*JJNNMAQXXXXJMM&&&&&//////&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&//////JXXXXXJ&&&////,,,,. Q*JJNNMMQXQXJ&MMM&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&///////&&/////&&&&&&/////,,,....,,,////, Q*///JJMMQQMMNN&////&&&//////////&&&&&&&&&&/////***QQ$Q**&&&&&&&&&/////,, Q*//NNNMMMM&*QQMNNN///&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&/////////*****Q*&&&&&&&&&&/////, Q*/////NNNMMM**QMNN///&&&&&&*********&&&&&&&/////////&&**$$Q*&&&&&&&&&&////, Q$&&&&///,,,,,,//QMMN,,,,//&&&&&&&&&&&//////,,,,,...,,/&&NMMMX*Q&&&///&/,,,,,, $*&&&&&///,,,//&&$MMNN,,,///&&&NMM&&&&////,,,,,,....,/*&NNMMNNNNQZ&&////&&/,,, &&&&&///,,//&&&&&$MMN,,,,////&NMMN&&&////,.. .,/&&&ND&&&&&///Q&&&////&&&// &&&&&//,,//&&&&&&X$QN/,,,,///&NMMN&&//... .,,/&&&&&//////&1Q&&&////&&& &&&//,,,//&&&&&&&NX$N&/,,,,,//NMN&&&//.. .,,&&&////////&&1Q&&&////&& &&//,,//&&&&&&&&NXX$N/,,,///&&N$Q&/,,. ..,,//////&&///&&&2Q&&&//// //,,//&&&&&&&&NXXXQQ&/,,,///&&&Q/,,. . ..,,////&&///&&&&X1Q&&&/// /,,//&&&&&&&&&NXQ $&/,,...//&&&Q/,., .,. ..,,///&&&&///&&&&XXXQ*&&/ ,//&&&&&&&&&NXQ Q/,,. /&&&$/,..*QMQ,. ..,,///&&Q&&//&&&XX$Q&&&/// //&&&&&&&&&&Q 1Q,. /&&M/,.$....Q.. ..,,//&&Q&&//,,,&&&&7X$ Q& /&&&&&&&&&Q $.. .//&M/.Q......Q.. ..,,//&&*&&//,,,,/&&&XXQ &&&&&&&&Q Q,. .,/&&$/,$.1$...$.. ...,,///&&Q&&///,,,,/&&&XQ &&&&&&Q **. ..,/&Q/,Q.($...Q.. ...,//////&&$&////,,,,,/&&&$ &&&&Q Q.$. ..,,*&*//,Q....Q,,...,,,,//&&&&&KQ&&//,.,,,//&&&Q &&Q' )$..Q. ...,,,&*&*///$.*$'..,,,,,///&&&&KK$&&///..,,,///&8Q Q )$..$....,,,,,&&&**&&Q*/////,,,,////&&&&&KKKQ&&&//,....,,,//H* Q,,Q...,,,//&&&-KQ&&&$&&&/////&&&&&&KKKKKK$&&&&//,....,,,/&H* $,Q,&/,,.,,/&&KQ$&&&&$K*&&&&&&&&&KKKKKKQ$&&&&//,.....,,,/&* '$/&&&//&&&KQ$&&///&&$KKKKKKKKKKKKKQ$'&&&&//,.....,,,//&4* Q&&&&/&&&KQ$&&/,,//&&*$$QQ$$QQ$$*&&&&&&&&//,,.....,,//&4 *$KKK&KQ$&&//,,,//&&&&&HQ$Q*&&&&&&&&&///,,......,//&$ '*Q$Q'Q&//,,...,/&&&&NNMMMNN&&&&&&///,,,......,,/&Q Q&//,,.....,&&&&&NMN&&&&&&////,,,.......,,/&$ Q//,,.......////'&&&'///////,,,.........,,,/Q $/,.,/,.........,,,,.................,,,//1$ Q&//.,,/,......,,,,,,,............,,,,,////. *&&/.,,/,..........,,,............,,,,,///$ QQ&&&////,,....................,,,,,,,,///Q Q&Q&&&&----//,,,,,,,,,...........,,,,,/////Q $&Q&&&&&&----///,,,,,,,,,,.......,,,,,,,//*/$ Q&&//&&&&&&&&&-----&-/////,,,,,..,,,,,,/////Q/. *$Q&&///&&&&&&&&&&&&&&-----/////,,,,,,,////////QQ $Q&&&//////&&&&&&&&&&-----///////,,,////////////$ Q&Q&&&//,,/////&&&&&-//////---//////////&&//,,////Q $//&&&////*//////,,,,,///////////////-&&&*//,,,///& Q//&&&/,,Q$$Q..........,,//////,,,.,,,&&&///,,,////&3 $/.&&&/,,QQQ...........,,,,////,,,,/&&&&///,,.,,////3* */..&&/,,.//&*...............,,,,,///&&&&//,,,..,,///HQ. Q/..Q&//,.,//.................,,,,//&&&&//,,,....,,//Q$I .$/.Q&&//..,,/.................,,,//&&&&//,,,......,,//I* .Q//..$&&//..,/................,,///&&&&J//,,.......,,///Q QQ/...&&///.,,................,,//&&&&&///,,.......,,///$I $.Q&..$&&&///.,...............,,//&&&&&////,,,......,,,///* .Q.$&..Q8&&////,...............,/&&&&&&&///,,,.......,,,///QI QQ..&Q..$L&&/////..............,&&&&&&&////,,,.......,,,///$) *$*,&,..QLL&&//////,,,....,,,///&&&&&&&&////,,,.....,,,,///1*) 1/Q,&,..QLLL&&//////,,..,,,///&&&LLL&&&////,,,......,,,,////Q) .Q-Q,/&L&&*LLLL&&,///////////&&&LLLLL&&&///,,,......,,,,/////$$ *$//Q/&&**LLLLL&&&&&,,,,,//&&&LLLLLLL&&&///,,,......,,,,/////$1 1// 0Q&&LLLLLLLLL&&&&&&&&&&LLLLLLLLLL&&&///,,,,,...,,,,,//////* *1// /$&LL33&&LLLLL3&LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL&&&///,,,,,,....,,,,////&Q .Q // Q&LL&33&//LL33LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL&&&&////,,,,,...,,,/////&8 ($ // Q6&333&LL3333LLLLLLLLLL33LLLLL&&&&/////,,,,,..,,/////**$ 2Q // Q&&333333333333LL33333333LLL&&&&&&/////,,,,,,,,////**&$ M/ /// Q&K33333333333333333333L,L&&&&&&/////////,,,,,/////&&& P// /// Q&Q33333333333333333333L,&&&&&&///////////,,//////&&& $// //// QK333333333333333333,L&&&&&&&////////////,,//////&&Q M// //// $K333333333333333,$&&,,&&&&////////,,/////&&&&&&&,Q I// ///// $KK33333333KK333Q,,&&&&&&&&&&&&&////////////&&&&&Q$* I// ///// QKKK3333KKKKKKQQQ&&&&&&&&&//////////&&&&&&&&&&&&&&Q IN/ ,//// ,*$KKKKKKKKKKKK3QQ'&&&&&&&&&/////////&&&&&&&&&&&&&$ *J/ ,///&&Q$KKKKKK$$$$$Q &&&&&&&&&////,,,,,/,,/////&&&&&Q$' '$/, ,//&&&$$KKKKK$$$$ &&&&&&///,,,..,,////////&&&&&&&$1' Q/, ,,/&L^Q$$KK$$Q/ /&&&&&//,,,,.....,,,,/////&&&&&&$Q) */,. ,/&&LQ$$$$$$Q /&&&&&///,,,,.....,,,,////&&&&&&&$' *M/, /&&&LQQ$$$Q /&&&&///,,,.......,,,,,///&&&&&&QQ) '$/, /&&&LQ$$Q /&&&&,,,... .....,,,,,//&&&&&&&$Q Q/,. ./&&&LLLQ$ ,&&&&,,... .....,,,,,//&&&&&&&&QQ *M/, ,/&&&LLL$ /&&&,,... .....,,,///&&&&&&&$1) ,$/, ,/&&&&LLQ/ /&&,,.... .....,,,///&&&&&&&&$' Q/,. /&&&&LL$&/&&&,,,.... .....,,///&&&&&&&Q/ */,, ,/&&&LLQ&/&&&&&,,,.... ....,,,////&&&&&&&* *$/,. ./&&&&L$&/&&&&,,... ....,,,////&&&&&&&&* Q/. .,&&&&&*&/&&&&,,... .....,,,////&&&&&&&&$' *$/. .,/&&&&Q&&&&&&/,,,.. .....,,,////&&&&&&&&&@ 'Q/,. /&&&&&$&&&&&///,,,,....,,,,////&&&&&&&&&Q ''$/,..,/&&&*M&&&&////,,,,,....,,,,////&&&&&&&$* Q/,,.,/&XX*&&&&////,,,,,.....,,,////&&&&&&&*'/ 'Q//,,/&&XQ&&&////,,,......,,,,////&&&&&&&$Q '$//,/&&X$&&/////,,......,,,,//////&&&&&&Q Q&//&&X*&&////,,,......,,,,,///////&&&&Q '$&//&*Q&////,,,......,,,,,,,//////&&&$/ Q//&XX$&///,,,,......,,,,,,//////&&&$' Q/&XXQ&//,,,.......,,,,//////&&&&&Q $&XQ&//,,,.....,,,,,//////&&&&&&Q' QX*'&/,,.....,,,,,/////&&&&&&&&$/ $*Q&/,,......,,,,,/////&&&&&&&&Q 'Q$&&&.......,,,,,/////&&&&&&&&Q* .Q$&&&.......,,,,,/////&&&&&&&&QMQ. QQ*&,.......,,,,////&&&&&&&&&&$MN$) 'Q$&&,......,,,,////&&&&&&&&&&QMN//Q Q$&&&,.......,,,/////&&&&&&&&QMN&//$. $$&&,........,,,////&&&&&&&&QMNN&///Q '$&&&,......,,,,/////&&&&&&&&MNN&////$ *$&&,.&/,...,,,,/////&&&&&&&QMMN&////$. .$&,..&&/...//,,/////&&&&&&&$MNN&//////Q .$&,..&&/..00,,/////&&&&&&*$MNNN&//////$. $&,.,//&&/....,,,//&&&&&&&$MNNN&///////,Q .Q&..///&&&/....,,,&&&&&&&&QMMNN&&/////,,$. (Q&.../&X/....,,,,/&&&&&&$MMNN&N&///////,,$. ($&../&&X/....,,,/&&&&&&&$MNNNN&&//////,,,,$. '$&./&&XXX...,,,/&&&&*&&$MMNNNN&&/////,,,,..$ *Q&./&&X/...,,,/&&&&&*&$MMNNNN&&/////,,,,,..'Q Q$&../&&/....,,,/&&&&*&QMNNNNN&&//////,,,,,..$' Q&.,,,//,,...,,/&&&&&&$MMNNNNN&&///////,,,,,..Q$ $&.,,///,,,..,,,/&&&&&QMMNNNNN&&////////,,,,,,..$ Q,,&///,,,,,.,,//&&&&&*QMMNNNN&&////////,,,,,,,..Q. Q,,,&///,,,,,.,,//&&&&$ Q*MNNN&&/////////,,,,,,,..'Q $,,,&///,,,,,.,,//&&&&* 'QMNN&&//////////,,,,,,,...Q $,,,,&///,,,,,.,,/&&&&$ 8&&&&&//////////,,,,,,,...'Q $&&,,,,,//,,,,/////&&&* QM&&&&//////////,,,,,,,...$Q. '$&&,,,,,//,,,,/////&&$ *&&&&&//////////,,,,,,,...$.Q Q&&,,,,,//.,,,,/////&&Q Q&&&&&&/////////,,,,,,,..... $&&//,,,,.,,,,,////&&&Q Q&&&&&//////////,,,,,,,,... $&&&///,,,,///////&&&&Q Q$&&&&//////////,,,,,,,,,. 'Q&&&,///,,,,,////&&&&&Q Q&&&&&/////////,,,,,,,,,. Q&&,.,///,,,//,,///&&&*Q 'Q&&&&/////////,,,,,,,,, $&,. ,,/////,,.,,//&&&&Q Q&&&&////////,,,,,,,,, $Q,. ',,////,,. ',,//&&&$ $&&&&///////,,,,,,,,, Q,. ',,,////,. ,,//&&'Q Q*&&&//////,,,,,,,,.. .$,.. ,,,///,. ',,//&&Q $&&&&//////,,,,,,.. *$,.. ',,,///,. ,,//&$' Q&&&////////,,.... Q,,.. ',,////,. ',,//&Q. '$&&//////,,,..., '$,,.. ,,,////,. ,,//$*. Q&&//////,,...,, *$,,. ,,,////,. ',,/&*Q '$&/////...,,,, Q,,.. ',,,///,, '//&$*, $&/////..,,,,/ '$,,.. ,,,,///,. //&&$Q $/////.,,,,// Q,,.. ,,,,,///. '/&&&$*. $////.,,,,,/ '$,,..,,,,,,///, //&&*Q $///,,,,,// *$,,. ,,,,,///,. '/&&$*. $//.,,,,// 'Q,,. ,,,,,///,., /&&&$' $/..,,,,/ '$.. ',,,,///,.. /&&&$* 'Q...,,,, 1.., ,,,,////,,...&&&&$* $...,,,, '$., ',,,/////,,..,&&$^* Q...,,, Q.,, ,,,,/////,,,..&&$1 .Q...,, $Q., ',,/////,,,..&&&$* Q...,, 'Q,,.,,,/////,,,.&&&&Q$ 8..,, Q,,. ,,,/////////,&&QQ '.,,, 'Q,,. ,,,///////,/&&1, $.,, '$,,. ,,,,/////,/&&11$ $., 'Q,,. ,,,,,////,&&&1$Q 'Q. '$,,.',,,,////&/&&$$* Q. Q,,,,.,,,,,////&&&QQ '$ '*,,.',,,,////&&&C$* $ Q,,,.,,,,,///,/&C11 ' 'Q,,,,,,,,///,/&D$' $,,,,,////,,,/&DM. @,,,,,,////,,/&D$1 'Q,,,,,////,,/&D$) Q,,,/////,,,,&DQ' '$,,////,,,,,&D$' Q,,,,///,,,,,&DQ /Q 'Q,,,//,,,,,,&D$. Q.. $,,,//,,,,,,&DDQ Q,,, 'Q,,///,,,,,,&D$* Q..,, 'Q,,,///,,,,,,&DQ. .$..,, Q,,,,///,,,,,KD&$. Q$..,,,, 'Q,,,////,,,,KD/&&Q *&&,,,/// $,,,/////KKD&///'&$.Q&&&.....,/ 'Q,,,//////&&&///&&&Q//,,,,,/// 'Q,,,,///////////&&&&$&&&&&&&&& '*,,,,///////////&&&$QQ$**$QQ* 1,,,,///////////&&&&1 A$,,,&&/////////&&&$ Q&&&//////////&&&&Q A&&//////////&&&&Q* $&///////////&&&$' *&///////////&&&Q

I've built a number of anchors for crevasse rescue using ice axes as a deadman anchor, and hung people and their equipment off them, and they held very well. Cascade concrete snow... drC

I mean... I've been here for a week now and it gets boring. Not Tokyo, the 10 hours meeting that justify my presence here. I have to go back in 3 weeks for more of the same. Come up with a good idea to impersonate me, please... You know you want to visit Tokyo. drC

Dead body graft... At least you have scary stories to tell on Halloween night... drC

You drive... So... I'll be there with my 'Merican chauffeuse. drC

I got a 3-4 season convertible on REI outlet for $89. 2 persons, 7 lbs and a bit. Look for deals. drC

Ha ha ha ha ha ha... No wait, it's not funny. I live here too. drC

A lot... 1005.6 on my 4th try, but the head stopped short of a 6th mine and more points drC