Dr_Crash

Kids are kids. My son is very focused and he does belay his friends. I am backing him up now. He has also used a Gri Gri (at VW) and does great with it. Just looking for something lighter. And while I do not think he'll drop anybody, why on earth would I risk it if I can mitigate the issue by spending $60 on a nice device? I know adults who have been dropped by adult belayers 30+ feet. Duh. drC

Mammut still claims that they used Beal's "Rope Marker" (the name they use for that bottle of ink) and that the rope strength was still dramatically reduced (when the mark was on edge). This is so confusing I'm gonna sew some sail repair thread around the middle of my rope. drC

Rotate your top biner, as in make the gate face down? drC

I believe that they should be on the same side for the reason backcountrydog mentionned. Manufacturers also mention the possibility of the gate becoming trapped in the bolt hanger and breaking. Not a good thing. Omega Pacific apparently believes differently from what other manufacturers (BD, Petzl, etc.) do and sell their quickdraws with opposed gates. Their reason is to try to minimize the chance of *both* carabiners' gates opening in a fall as they reorient themselves during the fall and could get nudged open on chickenheads, knobs, and other features. I'll personnally stick to what Petzl and BD and so many others do, for a reason I believe is better than OP's (which one can deal with by using different lengths for quickdraws). drC

Thanks DFA. Exactly why I want the device. Also the Gri gri is sooo convenient when the person you're belaying spend a lot of time hanging on the rope studying the route... Just my $0.02 (or should that be EUR0.02?). drC

Can you post those JPGEGs re: Beal's pen? attach the files to the post. Thanks, drC

We'll feed the baby plenty of , I promise. 80 would be a stretch if it were mine, but how mean was it of you to break my settling dreams so early on? drC

Bumpity bump. Has anybody fondled, uh, I mean, tried, the Cinch? I am looking for a lightweight Gri-Gri for my son. He can belay with a regular device, but I'd hate to see him drop his little brother because he's not paying attention or something. drC

Best one-line ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/w4m/47362406.html

Why? drC - Never been to Vantage

Thanks iain. On my list: - Slot couloir (because it's there). - Rainier, Gibraltar chute. - Rainier, Fuhrer finger, down to the Nisqually bridge. - Adams, Southwest chutes. I'd like to do that traverse that Sky and Lowell did :drooling. drC

Skis, boots, poles. Skins if you don't like to boot up 5000' of vert. Ice ax for the final push, maybe crampons. drC - The helpful answer guy

WTF IS NFNWR? drC

T mobile just came up with a kick-ass mini blackberry phone. Check it out. In 8 months I guess... drC

Nice. I climbed the Tooth with chriss a while ago under rain and snow, and it was sweet. My first alpine climb, and the conditions made it feel so much 'alpine.' drC

Mycology at Magneson? Details please? drC

My son climbs at VW in Redmond in their junior program, which is 2 hours twice a week. He loves it and the staff is very very nice. They have a lighter program with a punch card (you go whenever you feel like it) called Little Rockers that he was in for a year before, and that rocked. That's what made him so motivated to climb. And he's actually one of the reasons I did start climbing this year. drC

I'd like a pair. Care to make a small home production run for the cc.comers? drC

I just hope they don't close the mountain for climbing for years after that like they did after 1980's eruption. drC

Sure is! It's got me glued to my seat reading it. I was pinned down too. </more bad puns> drC

My pretty feet don't smell, can't help I have heard that one solution is to climb in wool socks with polypro long johns under your shorts, thus ensuring appropriate wicking of the odorful sweat to the outside world. And I just use a sponge to clean the soles of my shoes after each climbing day. drC

You guys make me laugh. The obvious answer to the seatbelt violation is to blast you about the irresponsibility of risking to have an accident and putting the financial burden of your next whatever years of life support as a burden on society and all the people paying rising healthcare costs. And then you'll say something about reckless speeders and SnowByrd will find something else, and then blah blah blah and then, ... You know what I mean. Good thread for spray, bad for the climbing forum. I think she asked for advice, not judgment. Damn human character, we just can't help it Enjoy your days guys; stop fighting over the silly things. drC

One of the things that amuse me (well, it makes me sad, really) is that in America, where everything has to be easy for everybody to feel good, people basically don't get educated to drive, and then speed limits are set very low because they CANNOT drive. It is just ridiculous. I mean, I spent 15 minutes in the queue to get my driving license exam and that was enough to pass the written test. Hello?! The driving test is a joke too. And that is true for both CA and WA, the two places I got a license in. In Italy, the legal speed limit is 95 mph. I don't think any of the countries around have a highway speed limit less than 130 km/h (about 80 mph?). Germany has no speed limits on the Autobahn. In all of these countries, it's a bitch to get your driving license. Maybe it's worth to put the effort upfront and have less moronic drivers and more normal limits. drC

I should go back there before it's all gone... Dru, nice translation. And your English is definitely much better than this guy's French; he/she cannot spell or use proprer grammar. (Edit: translation's not from Dru it seems; nice job anyway.) drC

I say find a local traffic attorney to handle it. Cost will be maybe $250 and you don't have to go. Yes you may not get out of it and end up paying everything plus the attorney fee, so it's a bet. But the alternative is $411 plus whatever your insurance will raise you (let's say an average of $150/period, i.e. $900 over 3 years), so it's worth it. I know I didn't do it for my first ticket, and should have. I did for a speed trap and got the ticket dismissed (still cost me $350 for the attorney here). 2 tickets in 15 years of driving (never more than 14 mph over though), call me a speeder if you want . Here's an offer for me to drive the whole way next time, dear. Oh, and you go girl! the people who call you a would-be liar. She's better than that, guys. drC