letsroll

I know I am going to get slammed for asking this question but what the heck. For mixed winter alpine climbs what kind of pitons if any do you use most? Or now days nuts and hexes replace pins. I don't see cams working at all with snow and ice in cracks.

I would loose full names of anybody.

I have never had a problem with them. I have more of a problem with my freerides. Dynafits are great, love them.

heck ya after the snow falls. Have not been up there to ski yet. Looking forward to it.

http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/mount-st-helens/ Climbing at a Glance Climbing Permits Climbing Permits are required year-round to climb above 4,800 feet elevation. Each person must read and sign their permit before climbing. Each person must display their permit during their climb. A climbing permit fee of $15.00 plus a service charge of $7.00 per person are charged for a one day climbing permit from April 1 through October 31. The total cost is $22.00. Climbing permit fee and administrative charge are not refundable. Please plan accordingly. All Mount St. Helens climbing permits are sold by the Mount St. Helens Institute. Climbing is limited to 100 climbers a day from May 15 through October 31. The maximum party size is 12 people. Climber registration is required. The Climbers Register is located outside Jack's Restaurant & Store. Any commercial use, including paid guiding is prohibited, unless authorized by a Special Use Permit. During the winter recreation season, from mid-November through April, a Washington or Oregon State Sno-Park permit is required for parking at either the Cougar or Marble Mountain Sno-Parks.

If you have a large pack you will fill it. I use the same pack for summer winter 4 days or 2. I use a 30 deg bag, just take another thin layer to sleep in. I have started to use bivi sack in stead of tent. You will eventually figure out that packing light and if a little suffering is involved it is well worth it given the lighter pack and smaller pack size. My regular ski/climbing partner is smaller than I and I make it as a goal to pack as small as his. I have learned a lot of what I need vs. what I don't need in the process. This year I am getting new clothes that pack smaller even still. But no matter what I will still have to pack a larget tent...damn... Light is right as long as you don't suffer too much.

better not, I just picked up a bunch of screws and I want to pay off this year.

Hope you find a deal. THe more split boarders breaking trail the better. Like Jlag said, practice and you will be fast.

Not yet. Partnered up with a friend for the wonderland after hers cra@#ed out on her. Then got a cold. Darn kids!!! DOn't worry I will be posting a TR when it gets done.

Think Billy just got excited. Planter Fasciitis is a slow healer. I had it in college while I was running track. Granted I did not stay off it and still ran, it took 3 months to heal. The night splint works as well as keeping your foot stretched while sitting at a desk. Use a golf ball to massage the bottom of your foot and ice after you do that.

Right now I am using aliens (older) off a buddies rack. I am looking to fill out my own. Love the older aliens, not too sure about the new ones. That aside, I am looking into the Ultralight TCU, and would like to have simular set up to what I have now but unable to find the range of the alien on the CCH websight to compair it to the Ultralights. Can some one point me in the right direction? Or tell me what color maches across. Thanks for the help.

Cluck I am touched by your concern. Just to set some things straight before I get this rep as a climber with a death wish. NF on hood, it was solid in the AM when I was on it. I had bail-out options, Cooper Spur. Torment-Forbidden, at least I asked questions before heading out so I knew what I was getting into and what to expect. I have stood at the base of climbs or at the cruxes and turned around for reasons ranging from not feeling the climb that day to I didn't like the conditions. As for water on an alpine climb it is not out of the question that there might be water on route. Again at least I asked before I took only on liter on the climb and got screwed cause of dehydration. The decent via NW buttress I had understood was tricky prior to post and was just looking for confermation on that info. Again at least I asked the question. I have been getting ready for this climb all summer. Hitting the trad hard and getting my confidence to handle 5.9 trad and if need be pull through some 5.10. Then again I have no problem leaving leaving gear behind if I get over my head. Better that then pushing too far and possibly getting hurt, and being on the 5 o'clock news. I rather be safe and able to ask more questions on cc.com that makes other posters question wether or not I should be doing the climb.

oh man Jlag is going to be there. I think I will skip now.

Sorry I did not write that correctly. The rap off is for the decent. After summit time. I understand there is a way to rap off rather than taking the cascade coulior. My bad.

I am looking at climbing this in the next couple of weeks. Do I need to get a permit for camping if I bivi on the ridge? ALso is the entire route devoid of water? Really looking forward to giving this route a go. Oh, almost forgot. How hard is the rap off the buttress? Is it really that tricky?

Have not been to one before. But I am in. Not sure what I am getting my self in, but what the heck...lol.

some one has too much time on thier hands...lol

welcome to the world of rock climbing. Some places are easy other sand bag thier ratings. I have the same thoughts all the time.

I am all for helping the sponors, but would like to make the best choice possible. Not just one that is easiest. If they happen to be up to par. Then they will be the first place I go. I also like the idea that they offer a course at smith. Just trying to make sure I get my $$ worth.

what should I be looking for when considering what course to take. Are there standards they have to meet?

I tried to search for a post, but did not find one for what ever reason. I am looking into a WFR and wondering what companies/courses I should be looking at. Want a quality education for my $$$. There is a company that advertises on the home page, are they any good?

lol I rather not have any practice before hitting monkeyFace. It would be too comical so see people waiting. Will read up some then. THanks.

Yo Dano. Can you recomend a book to get me some info before I head out on Aid (so I don't look like a complete idiot). I would love to and will take you up on that offer.

Ok question about aiders. I am looking at getting the Metolius pocket aiders. I am heading to smith next weekend. If I can't get them I am thinking about getting another pair and if I am getting a second pair I might as well get a pair for big wallin. That way I have a light weight pair for alpine and a heavier pair for everythingn else. What would be a good pair? How many steps? These are what I am looking at for the big wall. http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/index.htm Also you just need one fifi hook? What about a BD Cliffhanger or grapling hook? Never done aid climbing but will be heading that way soon. So trying to make my perchases count.

Nice trip, Great photo's!!!!! Glad to hear the crowds were not crazy.