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Climb: Mt Adams-lava headwall Date of Climb: 7/15/2006 Trip Report: After reading the TR from last weekend was inspired to head up and knock out a couple of routes on adams this past weekend. The plan: Port and I head up early sat morn pack in to high camp set up base camp and head up Lava Headwall. Jlag meets us at base camp sat for food and sleep. Get up early to do Adams glacier and get the heck out of there. Every thing was going according to plan till we were over the north ridge and looked at the headwall. Melted out...and too crazy for me to climb. ALternet plan, ok more like a joke but we did it anyway. Lava Ridge. We gained the ridge about half way up via long snow finger on its west side. Topped out were the ridge flates out to the summit. Port and I were tired and still had to down climb the Sweetest rout of all time, the north ridge, besides we were planning on doing Adams the next day. After a nice long and leg buring down climb of the north ridge we got back to camp and no sign of Jlag. A bit worried we cooked up food and a couple of hours later we went looking for him from the ridges below camp. No sign. At this point we were in need of some new blood for motivation since that was not in the cards the decision was made to skip Adams. So we did not wast all that time we dicided to do some TR ice climbing on Adams in the morning and head out in the afternoon. We woke up at the late hour of 6:45 am, ate and headed out. Now the regret starts to settle in, Darn It we should have done Adams. It was sitting there in the morning light beckoning to us. In fact I could hear it, "climb me.....CLIMB ME....climb me." Anyway ice climbing was fun, had never done that. We ran across several parties this past weekend and most were enticed to head up adams after reading the TR from the previouse weekend. At least one party of 2 made it on sat. No one headed up sunday after looking at a couple of slides that occured sat. Snow conditions were great early in the day for everything, but when the sun hit it the snow started to get soft very fast on all aspects. Oh well maybe I need to take a day off work and head up to bag that sucker. Or next time just say no to being a sucker. Gear Notes: took all the gear for lava. did not use the rope, and carried that thing all damn day.

Ya I am sure we did. I was the tall guy who had rope and a pair of boots on my pack. I am so glad I did that trip. It was a blast. Next time I will also do that snow route up the SW Dome peak. Like you said short but sweet looking.

Looks like you might be able to pass the schrund on the right hand side. Can't you pass the schrund via some rock on the left hand side? Or was it the right?

I have been keeping my pack weight down around the 40 pound or much less. Usually packing skis adds the weight. Oh ya "training" that is the ticket.

I came down the NW ridge. The NW ridge is obviouse from Dome and when you are climbing down from the summit. Very straight forward. You can down climb the whole thing on rock (one of the party or two did), but the last third had some tricky moves. I decided to rap at a spot where I found a slung rock. One 60 meter rope took me all the way down to the snow.

Climb: Dome/Sinister-Dome reg/ sinister NF Date of Climb: 7/1/2006 Trip Report: Had a long weekend and a Dome/sinister/gunsight sounded like a good one. Headed up to seattle friday afternoon to stay at a friends house. Needless to say we had a few too many that night and I was hurting the next day for the long approach to istwoot. The trail to cub lake is in ok shape looks like they are going to do some improvements, hope they cut out some of the dead fall. Like Jamin posted the slide area is a pain in the rear to get through. Lost the trial up through it and then again coming down. The camp spot on Istwoot was sweet, man that is what alpine bivi is all about, great views!!! The next day headed to the Cole next to Dome and set camp. Headed to gunsight but that late in the afternoon and me feeling very tired decided to bail and snag dome. Stopped 10 ft short of the summit of dome. Saw the possible ways up that Jamin talked about but decided it was not for me. Back to camp for rest/water/and sleep. Early start the next day 5:30 am for NF of Sinister. Weaving my way across the chickamin was easy and the snow was really sloppy. Stopped to look at the decent, and that look like it might be a problem, but after hauling up a rope I figured I had options, so onward and upward. The climbing was straight forward weaving my way through some shrunds on a couple of thining snowbridges. The snow on sunday was less that ideal but took tools ok and kicked good. If the slope was any steeper than 50 deg it would have been a little scary. Got to the summit ditched gear and stripped down to the skivies to try and dry out my clothing that was soaked from sweat and snow. Hung out for a while and shortly at team of 2 that I have been playing leap frog all weekend joined me at the top. After gear was dry headed down with the other 2. Did a short rap (thank god, I had been hauling that freaking rope all weekend and wanted to justify it!!!!). Back to camp loaded up and headed out. Goal was to make it to Cub lake or the head waters of Batchlor creek, but still had some day light so headed to 6 mile camp. Camped on a gravel bar had a fire all night. That was nice. july 4th started early and raced back to the car for the long drive home for BBQ and Beers. This was a great trip. Would not want to do it in 2 days (crazy fools Jamin!!! . Lesson learned. Try and figure a way to have less weight. Pack was 58 lbs at finish. Figured it was about 64-66 on the way in. WAY TOO HEAVY, no wonder I was tired. Not all small alpine critters are after food, some want to eat your salt encrusted boots, shoes, socks and hiking poles. Need to get more apline rock in. Feel much better on steep snow than steep rock. Kick in the Rear trip. Gear Notes: poons, 2 tools, bivi, lots of sunscreen and water Approach Notes: batchlor creek trail is good but have a fair about of dead fall to go over, around, and under to get to the slide area. The slide area at the headwaters of bachlor is a real pain in the butt.

did NF of sinister this weekend. The Chikamin is no problem geting over to the route. Getting on route will start to get hard soon. SOme of the snow bridges I used are starting to get thin. Getting off Sinister via the Sinister/Dome cole will be a problem not too long from now. I would predict the snow bridge I used will be gone shortly. Fun route had a blast, good luck if you hit it.

black plastic bag. That is a great idea. I will use that. I will try and add smaller amount of snow each time than I normally do. Thanks for the ideas.

I am heading out for 4 days next weekend and don't want to take the Jeb boil instead of the white gas for weight savings. I could take two of the large fuel bottles if need be but trying to just take one. I will be melting just about all of my water. One way I have discovered was to boil about 2 cups fill the nalgine with snow and pour the boiling water into the nalgine. Seems to be a bit more fuel efficient that adding a bit of water then add snow to melt in cup. Thanks for any ideas

Not sure what the "lane" part is all about, but I have seen them take the snow from those lanes and push it onto the Palmer snowfield. I would not camp in those.

Dano you going?

As with most routes it depends on when you hit it. Late in the season, the climbing is harder. Right now I would venture that it is fairly easy, but changing fast. It is easier to down climb the north ridge than it is adams glacier for the most part. Going down steeply or less depends on you.

I am working on getting in better shape, but I also looking at doing harder routes. We seem to be at a simular level. Do you backcountry as well?

did not head up. Mountains I understand were socked in all weekend.

nice trip was thinking about doing something simular myself. Way to get the stoke on.

it there a map with enough detail to give all the major peaks names of the north cascades? Poster size.

don't remember about winnies slide, but hourglass is really hells's highway. Have not traveled to that spot, but in planning a North face climb that we had to bail on I discovered the problem looking at the pics in guide books (our decent route).

call me if you are interested.

was wondering if I was going to get your attention. I am not sure they allow eastsiders to post on CC. I was thinking about heading up sat for a possible two day trip. Not sure if I want to carry all that gear. You interested in a one day? Sunday? YOu can move your sh#t on sat you eastsider........lol

Has anybody driven up to the TH for Jeff park? Thinking about heading up there this weekend. If not I will post what I find.

ncie work you two. Guess this answers my question as to what Jlag was doing this weekend. You guys ski off the base of the summit?

time for some climber justice. Have three or four of your buddies watch a car for a few hours and if some one brakes in, kick thier A$%.

-I am not too sad to see the masses leave the outdoors. However it will create a $$ crunch for the roads and trails I like to use to get to my climbs. - As for the drop on rainier and shasta it might be that you have to pay to climb and getting a camp reservation is a PITA, as well as seeing all those people near me. Maybe the general public wants a more wilderness experience when they climb, but the rub for them is that you have to pay your dues on the crowded climbs to get the experience to get to the seldom used routes to get that wilderness experience. -as for the generational change I will have to agree. I coach high school track and the kids that I see now vs. when I was in high school (even 6 years ago) are less tolerent of suffering. I have had to make my workouts easier for them, not only to retain them in the sport but so I don't brake them. Also there is this attitude of "well if I am not good at it when I first try then I will never be good at it and I might as well give up." You think numbers are declining what a couple more years and you will see a real drop.

- more likely to have a second and a third - vantage is further than smith -don't have SUV -Slow ya right... -Later in the summer when gas will be most expensive ya will pay. Not as many trips to North Cascades as I would like or had planned, and I am getting more picky about the weather. Before I would go and if it was crap I did not care, now that it costs near $40 to go anyplace. ALso riding bike to work to save gas $$ for the weekends. Gear + High Gas + fewer trips = less fun

Glad some one is having fun during spring brake, unlike us working stiffs. jlag so that is why you did not want to go to smith....lol.