letsroll

Ya just got the pics. Sorry, been very lazy . I am going to try and get them up this afternoon. First time doing this so we will see.

Looking to go up for the first time. Is the approach easy to follow? Navagation hints that are handy to know?

Climb: Mt Hood-North face var. 5B in oregon high Date of Climb: 7/23/2005 Trip Report: Left Cloud cap thinking I would hike past the North Face for a look see and keep on going on to Sunshine. I stopped and looked and the route and said what the heck. Gained the route left of the usual start and worked my way over to the reg route. The Snow was perfect for tooling on front pointing. Hard snow over ice. The Rock bands were spicy. That is the most alpine rock for me todate as well as ice. What a great route. Just had a couple of rocks come down, and only one hit. Thank god for shoulder straps Topped out via last little bit of cooper spur. & hours up, I know that is slow, but will get better as I get more of these type routes in. Had an absoulute blast!!!!!!! Thought I would through in a twist (really thought it would be easier) buy decending via sunshine. Big mistake, next time it would be much quicker to do cooper spur. I am sold, loved this type of climbing, stying focused for 7 hours and almost crapping my pants a couple of times was amazing. Only really scary spot was traversing rotton ice on the north ridge traverse to get to Queens Chair. Both feet fell though to nothing but air and tool barely held. Would have been a long fall down WyEast Can't wait to do some more north faces and ice climbing later this year on the glacier. Pics in a couple of days when I get them developed. Gear Notes: Tools, poons, and balls Approach Notes: via Cloud Cap

On of my leashes on my Quarks broke dry tooling, the clipper leash. Anyway I never liked how they hung when rock climbing, the hang point is in the middle of the axe so the head and spike are level with each other. But liked the ability to clip in and out. They always got in the way. I was looking at the BD Android Leash and or something simular to the Petzl Charlet Freelock Leash . Does the Android leash make the tool hang spike up so it is easy to grab? Or should I just get the Freelock and be happy?

Great route guys. Sounds like a blast. I guess I better get my butt up there

I am not seeing the 5 meg waterproof. Which one? I just might be blind.

I am looking at getting a digital camera. I know these are two different cameras SLR vs. non-SLR but these two seem to be the best of the field and cost is close. Can anybody tell me real world experience with these? Sony CyberShot DSC-V3 and the Canon EOS 350 D/ Digital Rebel XT. Thanks for the help. Those throw-a-way cameras are killing me

I also would like to see, and no I will not be taking skis (this time).

I am sure that place goes through people left and right. But for $8 an hour I could afford the buy that Benz I was looking at.......

saw your group while we were going up the Nose. We were the very slow team of three heading up. Girls looked like they were having a good time. what a great day/weekend to be up there.

looks like it is going to be a regular CC party up there. You guys put in the boot track for me. I am taking a couple friends up there as well. Anybody taking booze and some cards

7 people are going up there. Three of us know crevasse rescue so safty of the newbies has been thought out. I feel confident that if someone did fall that we have enough expereinced people that we could handle the rescue situation with out aid of the newbies or assist in the newbie getting out. As for skiing the route it looks like a good one, just wondering if I was out of my mind in thinking so. Further more (just so you don't think I am a complete ass) I would only ski down if the objective danger was low (it is never zero when climbing) and I felt confident that everybody would make it down safely (i.e. weather, avi, and crevasse danger were at acceptable levels). I would not leave newbies on thier own!!!! I could not and would never do that for thier saftey and more importantly for my own piece of mind. Personally it would be very hard if not impossible for me to live with myself if some one was hurt because of something I did, more specifically if I left them on thier own as you thought I was going to do. If I felt there was any overt danger to anybody in the climbing party I have not problem calling the climb and hitting the nearest bar. I sertanly could have given more detail about the climb and is the cause of the confusion. Sorry it was not the NF, I ment Coleman Headwall. That is what I get for trying to remember route names with out looking them up Please excuse the spelling it is very late and brain fried.

Never done this befre and taking a group of newbies to pop thier summit cherries. How long does it take from the car to base camp via heliotrope ridge trail? Should we take approach shoes for the heliotrope trail? Other than cravases is there other considerations that I should take into account? I also was thinking about skiing down the Colemn/Deming route is this a shitting idea, love to get some turns in . Also I was going to stay an extra day and do the north face, what do you think the conditions are like? See post below, little more detail, sorry

Has anybody been up there lately? How do you think the approach is? I was thinking about doing it one day. How would navagation through the brush be in the dark? Then decend via white salmon glacier. Is this going to be a real bitch and should be done in two days?

have you tried the wild things 1/2 bag with the jacket?

Has anybody tries the GoLight belay jecket, or the Wild Things belay jacket? What are your thoughts? I have a down jacket and tired of it getting wetted out. The Golite is $60 cheeper and inclined to go with that for the price, but if the Wild Things is getter then will go with that.

if you head up friday post TR. I am heading up sat afternoon, and again sunday morning. Long story but yes two trips in what is likely less than 24 hours

ya what up with the removing of posts? Had have several removed.

Has anybody tried this rope? I was looking at getting two 60 m for a twin set-up for alpine snow and rock. Want to get a very light rope that I will use next winter for ice climbing (hence the twin set-up). Are there other ropes I should be looking at?

those idiots. Car abandoned = broken into. I had higher hopes for those who traveled the backcountry. scratch that. Sorry about it. If they every get caught they should lop off a finger as a reminder to respect others property

"They found hyponatremia was most serious in runners who gained substantial weight - 4 1/2 pounds to 11 pounds - from drinking lots of water along the route." If they are drinking enough water to gain weight, they are for sure drinking way too much. It is not rocket science.

you tooooo funny.

Ok sounds like that is it, got to get me a pair. Now to take out a second morgage on the house...lol. Really thanks for the info, I am going to get a pair, most likely next year.

that is a possiblility, just would like a stiff sole for good kick stepping and some front pointing and weight savings over the nepal extreams. Feel more secure with stiff sole on steep terrain.

just to be sure, your saying the upper of the boot was not stiff enough for frontpointing, and not the sole.