Chad_A

Thanks for the report; kinda gives an overall idea of the area.

Blah blah blah blah dumbshit blah blah blah blah fuck blah blah blah blah moderators blah blah blah blah dumbshit blah blah dumbshit blah...

Captain Swashbuckle Beard Of the pirate ship Rubber Ducky !

Yet another pirate name finder... http://www.quizopolis.com/pirate_name.php

"You will die at the age of 36 You will be poisoned by your ex from your 7th marriage." Guess I better get working. I'm 32, and I haven't even been married yet.

Very cool; good to see that new activity is happening in the Alaska Range. They're all inspiring, indeed.

Do I detect thread drift? WTF? I thought this was a dry tool thread!

Yes, women have been a major source of suffering for me, as well.

Put it in a happy box, man. You're fine.

Hey, Oleg, The bottom ice pitches of the North Face are completely filled in with snow; I'll bet we'll get a window here in a bit when the Eliot Headwall is in primo conditions. Just a guess...

I think TeleRoss should come down and ski this! I took his photo, and changed the coloring a bit, then sharpened it. Enjoy, folks. It was truly a surprise to have such a beautiful day up there.

Whoa, careful there...I'm so alpine starved that you could probably talk me into it

Looks like you worked really hard on this one. Beautiful pictures; looks high quality. I'll be looking forward to seeing one in person!

Thanks, dude. You gonna go get it (Yocum)?

Just curious, why 100+ pounds? Maybe there's ways to get that load a tad lighter.

Hmmm...was that him knocking on my door at midnight? Haha...

This shit is crazy. Last year, I was walking on rock on the south side. It was disgusting. Now, this year....well, I'm glad I bought a snowboard.

Thanks, Argus. I can put a post up on that website. I just managed to find the guidebook yesterday afternoon (what a beautiful book it is) and I'm looking forward to getting to the area. Check your PMs, we can chat about this more. Cheers, Chad

Oleg- You're right, for the most part, as most people's bodies are like this. But, check this out; it's a write up about "Fat" by MFT on gymjones.com, suggesting with dietary and training changes, one can "train" their body to live off stored fat instead of the glycogen in liver/muscle tissue. Link: http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=17 Copied and pasted: FAT Fueling for Endurance BY MARK TWIGHT First, let's use “more than 120 minutes” to define the beginning of "endurance” and leave the duration beyond that open. The longest I have personally gone is 63 hours more or less non-stop, and 11 days straight in a “stage” type event where recovery between periods of 10-14 hours of effort occurred. For the purpose of this article I restrict the effort to a single, steady-state event of two to 24-hour duration. Endurance efforts are largely fueled by fat oxidation. To be sure, fats require the background catabolism of carbohydrates for conversion but (in well-trained, endurance-adapted athletes) at levels of work 70% of MVO2 or below the predominant source of energy is fat. Those less adapted to endurance will fuel mainly with fat up to about 50% of MVO2. For efforts at greater than 70% of MVO2 the primary source of fuel is carbohydrates. Many CrossFit workouts force the athlete to operate at 100% of MVO2, and even higher during interval sessions. The body naturally chooses the fuel source most appropriate to the level of effort demanded by the brain with no regard for how long the supply will last. If the effort is hard enough that carbs are fuel of choice the gas is going to last for roughly two hours. Once you have gone through the readily available carbohydrates (stored glycogen, blood glucose) the body automatically switches to alternative sources of energy production, all of which yield less energy than carbohydrate conversion. So it’s up to your brain to manage the fuel inventory. I believe how your body chooses its fuels may be manipulated not only through daily diet but also by matching that diet with particular types of exercise. My belief is both backed and contradicted by scientific study – kudos to some scientists and too bad for the others because athletes on the ground (and on the podium) have proved the theory again and again. Again, I am talking about endurance effort for which this type of dietary and training manipulation is effective. Such practice may work for sprint or CrossFit WOD type efforts but I do not have enough experience or interest to comment. My interest is primarily endurance, secondarily power-endurance and I eat the fuels I need in quantities relative to the length of the effort they fuel. I don’t need a lot of carbs to fuel a short, intense CrossFit WOD – it just doesn’t last that long. I do need to eat a reasonable quantity of protein to aid recovery from effort of any type and as a prophylactic against muscle catabolism during long effort. More than anything, for what I do (2-12 hour efforts) I need to eat a lot of fat. I jokingly say that I eat a 40-30-200 diet but it is close to the truth. Dietary fat intake has been shown to improve fat metabolism, and increased fat metabolism spares muscle glycogen (E.V. Lambert, Speechley et al, 1994, Helge, Richter et al, 1996, Goedecke, Christie et al, 1999, E.V. Lambert, Goedecke, 2001). Of course it does; because, to a point, the body will tend to “go after” what ever it is accustomed to getting a lot of and if I eat nothing but fat then my body will either eventually learn to fuel activity from only fat or I’ll go the way of the dinosaur. The main reason to train your body to oxidize fats at a higher percentage of your MVO2 is that carbohydrate conversion produces acid (talking on a cellular level here) while fat conversion does not produce acid. Even carb conversion at aerobic levels of effort produces acid but the body can process it at the same speed it is being produced. The athlete with more efficient fat conversion moves at a faster pace when fat is the main energy source. In the 1989 Hawaii Ironman Mark Allen ran a 2:40 marathon (the fastest recorded in the event) following 5:30 of hard effort. No human has enough carbs left on board to sustain such intensity for 8 hours. In a state of carbohydrate-depletion, his rate of work in the marathon depended on an ability to oxidize fat at a rate of 1.15g/minute, which is roughly 50% higher than most national-class athletes can achieve. An average level of fat oxidation (.76g/minute) would have produced a much lower rate of work and a time for the marathon of 3:30. To learn what percentage of fat is being burned at what heart rate requires a stress test where the respiratory quotient or respiratory exchange rate is measured. The quantity of CO2 exhaled divided by the quantity of O2 inhaled provides a fairly accurate picture of the percentages of energy sources being used. Typically an RQ of .85 shows a 50-50 burn of fat and glucose. One of the guys who trains in our gym from time to time tested last year and hit .85 at an HR of 64, showing that he was (at that time) adapted to burning predominantly glucose. He is an ultra-endurance athlete but had been living at high altitude (over 12,000') and climbing higher for three months and we believe the glucose preference was due to hormonal changes caused by reduced O2 i.e. a stress reaction. However, it may have been due to low fat intake or perhaps we was getting a cold when he tested. No matter because, by manipulating his diet (more fat) and training at low HR for long duration shifted this number over the course of several months. Last test he was hitting that same RQ at much higher HR, which means he is now burning more fat at a higher percentage of MVO2 which means he has a greater pool of energy reserves available, is producing less acid at higher HRs, etc. On top of that foundation he stacked a lot of intervals and his last e-mail from overseas suggests great success in sport application of this fitness. In our experience, the trick to becoming more fat efficient is to eat more fat (be careful to balance Omega 6 and Omega 3 fatty acids) and include a good deal of training at fat-fueled heart rates; this is shockingly low for most people meaning that it will not feel like useful training. From time to time do what we call “depletion days” where the effort is long enough and fueling lean enough that the body must access fat reserves in order to keep going. These adaptations are not immediate in athletes whose bodies are – through genetics and/or training – more efficient at using glucose as an energy source. At Gym Jones we recommend that endurance athletes use a hybrid program that combines CrossFit to improve power and whole body integrity with longer duration, lower intensity efforts because these train fat metabolism, which, when accompanied by appropriate diet improves long-term energy production, giving one the ability to “go forever.”

Damn, you guys, I just bought a set from a guy, slightly used for 300. What's up with the Ergos? Damn, I'm always so late with the fashion trends. I wonder what's going to be "in" now?

I hope to find JoJo's book on the area today, but in the meantime, I was wondering if anyone here on the board has done any of the mixed routes on the Beehive. Thanks in advance

These are my favorites by far. They come with the Yosemite Quickdraw set, and they're great with thick gloves when ice climbing. Weight: 35g Major Axis: 22 kN Minor Axis: 8 kN Gate Open: 8 kN

Great walking conditions today, no need for snowshoes. The Palmer was pretty hardpack (I took the snowboard; bad day for that, but then again, I'm a newbie). Here's some pics. South Side overview (Rimey!) Illumination Rock: Castle Crags and Crater Rock: And, as a last minute stop, a pic of the North Face from afar:

Very Cool. Thanks for the report!

Check yo' PMs.