Chad_A

Sometime tomorrow (depends on how late I work tonight) I plan on taking a trip up to I Rock to take some pics and scope out routes. If anyone would like to join, send me a PM and I'll call you tomorrow a.m. when I'm getting ready to leave. Chad

For chrissakes, hold on!!!! I'm trying to finish that chapter in FOTH, and then I'll happily take him out to show him what I know...

What the...the Sit 'n Spin is gone? Oh, the horror...

Here's a nice review for you... http://climbing.com/print/equipment/crampons/ I have a crampomatic pair, and they fit great on three brands of boots that I have in my closet (Salomon, Boreal, and Scarpa). The Curly-Q on the front bail wire helps dampen the vibration, I believe, but in my experience, if I kick real hard, it can cause the crampon to bounce back (so, don't kick that hard, right? Haha..) The heel lever adjustment works great, so you can really fine tune them. Can't say I've tried the newmatic style, but they're probably fine, as it's what I see House using in pictures and Grivel advertisements (never mind the fact that he's sponsored by them).

Nah, it was great, and I brought down a chunk of scrap plywood to put down there, to keep the 'pons from tracking crap all over the place. Small, but big enough to move around on while belaying. Didn't rain until we were done that day. Probably will be out there again sometime later in the week; Wed-Friday, someone pick a day.

Haven't done it yet, but I hear Cooper Spur on Hood is a great solo.

That sounds impressive! I've never been to the Sierras; simply put, I'm trying to get out of the Cascades this year to experience a different range. I have the Rockies on my list, because I can't afford to get to Alaska or Peru this year like I wanted to. I'll see if I can find the book (Secor, you say?) and take a look at things. If I don't make down there this year, I certainly will sometime. Thanks for the information! Cheers, Chad

Really...feel free to suggest anything in particular. I'll keep it in mind when the time comes.

Hey, Gordy, Thanks much, you know I'll be in touch. What's the approach time for these areas, BTW? Cheers, Chad

Very cool pics. Fissle looks epic!

Slothrop and Fromage: What were your sleeping systems? Crackers: the packs look nice. Wish I'd know about them sooner!

Are higher gasoline prices affecting the way you climb? I guess it may sway me toward somewhere closer. - Are you more likely to invite a third or fourth partner to split the cost? If I'm going to Canada, yeah, sure. - Have you gone to Vantage when you would have rather gone to Smith? Nope, but I live in Portland. - Did you take the Civic when you would have rather taken the Yukon? Yeah, I've taken the Subaru and left the Cherokee at home lots lately, but that's regardless of climbing trips. - Do you drive any slower to increase mileage? (I think I know the answer to this one ) Not yet. - Or do you just suck it up and pay? Nah, I try to conserve...microbrews are pricey.

Email sent.

Haha, okay, okay... I emailed B. Blanchard, and he suggested the time to go is in June, now days, for Humble Horse. Might be tough to swing that one this year, but I may try. Thanks for all the suggestions, Gene; I spoke with a partner of yours through PMs regarding some Canadian climbs, and it's encouraging. He had some good suggestions; if you have any specifics, feel free to suggest, as well. I still have those xeroxed beta sheets, as well, that you sent. John- That may very well be the result...heheh. Eric- Well, I was up in that area a couple years ago, but I forgot to leave the Neutrino. Shit.

Wish I could...

Oh, sure, I understand that I could do August rock routes, and that may be what I end up doing. The plan this year, however, is to get trad experience earlier, and couple it with the ice mileage I did this past winter, and culminate it in a mixed route of some sort. Thanks for the suggestions, and for the encouragement. I'll keep an open mind, for now...though I don't think I'll be fat enough for any bear (unless I slow down on the beer.)

Well, the recent threads on Andromeda/Athabasca, and the incidents that have occured, have stymied me once again. I thought that I was aiming for the right time to head to the Rockies, so I put in my vacation for that time; now, it looks like (just like here) it'll be melted out, too. Disappointing for sure. I'd hoped to give Humble Horse on Diadem a shot. I suppose that I could head for the Mooses Tooth, but I don't think it'll be cold there yet (probably way too early for freeze-thaw). Any suggestions? I'd taken 10 days off for it. Sad days, but I can't say that I'm surprised

Check yo email.

FYI, probably head out to Rocky Butte Thursday afternoon, if it's not pouring, or a mudfest. I only have one rope to DT on, so if anyone else wants to bring one, that'd be great, along with some webbing to set up tree anchors. The more the merrier. Chad

Oh, wow, thanks much! Damn, can't this weather clear? I'd like to actually get out and enjoy some of this stuff

http://mountrainieraccess.blogspot.com/

Climb Max here in Portland did a good job with a few of mine.

I'll add, hell yes. They work great in my digital camera in supa cold weather, and in my headlamp too. Two thumbs up.

Granted, it wasn't that cold when we were camped below Eldorado, but it seemed that the insulated "pot" that came with my pal's heated up really fast, and the insulator kept the fluid warm for a really long time. I guess if you really believed in it, you could have your partner buy another insulated "pot" for it to carry themselves, and you could heat up individual goods. One thing that is nice is that those little canisters fit really well inside it's own rig, and I think two of them will fit. Just thoughts

Evidently, good ol' Bob is expanding his horizons... http://www.bobvila.com/ProductServices/S...Training-1.html Edit: happy birthday to Cobra Commander. May you win every battle; if you don't may all your fighter planes not be destroyed, and when you retreat to your lair, may their be a birthday cake waiting for you.