ashw_justin

If it was properly equalized, it wouldn't load assymetrically. Then again I'm not familiar with the climb.

The point is: I don't see any reason why the DOJ needs a secret case, unless there is something to hide. Privacy is for citizens, not the government!

Laws and court cases are NOT supposed to be secret. This is some fucking gestapo shit man.

But then in a way you're putting all of your faith in your weakest piece, because it will be the first to fail, and the rest of the pieces will be shockloaded. You risk putting greater forces on more important pieces just to strengthen a weak piece. Unless all of the pieces are obviously horrible...

Now that's some creepy shit.

How is the magic X not sequentially weighting and popping? If one piece goes, the other piece(s) get shockloaded sequentially. Better to equalize by tying off correctly... (edit: unless it's a meandering route or traverse, and you can't set up adequate directionals...)

or a B52

An ATC works with two followers only if the two followers are climbing at the same rate. What do you need to pull slack out of just one of the ropes?

The best WW boat I've had in the surf was the Necky Gliss. Add some fins onto a Gliss, and you'd be rippin'.

It's a parasitic fungus that grows on misappropriated funds.

I invented this move where you paddle like hell to get over a 8-10 foot wave, only you don't make it, and the waterfall flips you over backwards, and you land right-side-up in a backsurf and surf the whitewash backwards. I so totally meant to do that. I think I'll call it "space monkey."

What are you talking aboot, Queest Alb ain't spanish.

How many sport routes around here are 70 meters to the chains? I thought a "pitch" was either 25 or 30 meters.

The cool thing about kayak surfing is when the surf gets that big, you can get some epic backflip poundings and then tell your friends it was an intentional rodeo move.

I would take my kids to Exit 32, it's cooler. Oh wait, I don't have kids.

So they rappeled without using the slings... and considered the rap rings as booty? I guess they are just more hardcore than us. Or maybe they were trying to teach a lesson to the whimpy USA climbers?

Tape works fine if it comes off or gets mangled you have extra lying around anyway.

WTF? 7.1a+

The nice thing about not hiring a guide is that you can make your own schedule. I hired a guide for Cotopaxi in Ecuador, and it was either climb in a snowstorm, or not climb at all and forfeit the fee. Me hice una berga! And of course, the following five days were perfect. (also notice highly technical mountaineering apparel)

throat freshiez

Two quickdraws are the standard, locking biners if you want to be really safe. The self-equalizing action of the "magic X" also leads to extension should one anchor point fail, this is understood to be a bad thing. Of course if the anchors are as bomber as they should be, you'd expect your gear to fail first, and even this is highly unlikely in a toprope situation unless there is unusual crossloading or rock contact on your gear. Specifically regarding your partner's setup, the problem with that is there is only one sling holding the setup together, so if anything goes wrong with that one sling, there is nothing backing it up. Due to the fact that is in the "magic X" configuration and not tied off at the attachment point, failure at any point in the sling will eliminate your anchor.

Yes yes, more sporto boltmonkey action at 32 this weekend. My climbing friends think I have a sport climbing problem... I think they're right...

Haha that's hilarious. But how did you know they were Argentinians?

Your link is awry. Try this: http://www.edgeworks-climbing.com

Or you can toprope easy climbs from the anchors on Repo I wall (exit 32). The guidebook gives directions.