ashw_justin

cc.com: the best social-life-substitute that hours and hours of your empty life can buy! Damn this cable modem! Damn it to hell!!! Ah well. At least I'm not a moderator.

buttload beans, buttload rice, buttload cheese, 1 tortilla. And when I say buttload...

Will that be before or after they turn the St. Helens crater into a giant winter stadium, with monster truck rallies on ice!!!! YYeeeeeeehahw boy! Get me 'nother $5 Berdwyser!

Where's the one of me with the ice screw? Well here's another great one from Paul.

or right click on the "back" button to get a list.

24-hour sketch-cam.

I was thinking about how to build a crack for jamming. Two 2x6's fixed close together, maybe starting finger-sized and widening out at the wall gets steeper. However I have no idea how to make a durable, high-friction, yet comfortable texture. Actually, thing is I can just go down to the UW rock if I want to practice my jams, so I don't really see the point.

Yeah man, right on, I'm not calling you a an idiot or anything, I'm more just speaking out against critical posts getting nuked. A lot of the best mountaineers start out sketchy, their motivation far outpacing their experience. Which is not to say that I think you yourself are a newbie (hell maybe I'm still a newbie), but it sounded like you may have had some folks up there who were clueless to some degree. I had just assumed that you were the "trip leader" and perhaps were making a decision that could put some newbs at uncommon risk. That's the kind of decision where it's important to listen to warnings. I don't know if you ever got to read that post anyway, but actually my main criticism was not heeding the weather forecast! Climbing in the rain sux big balz, mmkay. ps. Sky WTF, did Messner come asking for advice on cc.com? Damn, I always miss the good threads.

But seriously, it was a bad idea to take a bunch of newbies up the Fisher Chimneys in bad weather, without appropriate gear or experience. That's what people were trying to say. I think they could have rocked the Sulfide, but then again, the weather forecast was pretty unambiguously bad. But newbies trying to ice climb without even the right equipment, and then rapping down in the rain... There is a thin line between feeling stupid and feeling very, very sorry. Well, I guess I just spilled the beans. Anyway I thought the deletion of my post betrays a trend of overly sensitive moderation.

I just built a wall that for the time being measures 8' wide by 10' high. The incline goes from about -25 deg, to -45, to horizontal. I can get plenty pumped on it already, but I'll probably add a few more panels at some point. Most of the holds are homemade from polyester resin.

Yeah I understand what you're saying. Only this post wasn't in a trip report. It was a thread where someone was specifically asking for beta and suggestions on a route, then a bunch of people pretty much said don't do it. This person went ahead and did it anyway (and posted a TR), running into the exact same problems and risks that they were warned about, in fact exposing other oblivious newbies to these risks. I posted in the advice thread pointing out specific advice that was ignored, but proved to be true (which was pretty much all of it). There were no insults. Well, maybe my post was unnecessary, but in this particular case I felt that something had to be said.

I had a similar post deleted for the same reason a couple months ago, criticizing bad style/judgement. I thought I was relatively polite about it, but I guess someone else didn't think so. My question is, what was the motivation: was it a) someone was trying to protect the feelings/ego/attitude of the person I was criticizing, or b) someone thought I should STFU for saying "I told you so." I'm pretty sure it was the latter...

And that would be...? Or did you just want to make us think about hot chicks in bikinis...

haha that's great. It makes sense, the plastic is molding onto the tumblers. The real pros probably just carry the master key though... You can't stop them, only slow down/discourage them.

Yeah and I think I already used up my odds on the South American girlfriend.

As Rudy (I think) pointed out earlier, the kind of overhanging routes we are talking about simply can't be toproped. If the route covers enough horizontal ground, falling off the route means you pendulum swing into the ground even without taking into account rope slack and stretch. And even if the route is not overhanging enough for this to happen, it simply isn't practical to work on a truly overhanging route on toprope. If you don't believe me then try it. The only way to toprope either such routes is for someone to lead it, on bolts, so that climbers can follow it on toprope, unclipping/cleaning quickdraws as they go. So basically you're telling mixed climbers not to climb overhangs, because most of the really hard mixed routes are highly overhung, and thus must be bolted.

FUCK MT. HOOD MEADOWS. I think I'm going to throw up.

Haha isn't this the same Micheal_Layton who posted this thread? Face it man, you are lord attention whore, among the rest of us lesser attention whores. Or at least, that's what the dudes at the supermarket were saying... Anyway, whoever this Michael_Layton dude is, I'm glad he gives some personality to Washington climbing.

Dang man, I need a European girlfriend who climbs!

Mountaineering it is not, that is for sure. My favorite analogy for sport climbing, coincidentally, is lift skiing: man-made alteration to the land for the convenience of those wishing to pursue the sport. It takes something away from the authentic experience, and defaces the land a little, but by an large it is viewed as acceptable and necessary by the vast majority of participants. People don't sport climb to pretend to be mountaineers, they sport climb because it's a safer and more convenient way to climb some rock. Someone has said this before, but I'm not convinced that the Alpental area is not a good place for winter cragging. It's really not somewhere you go to be alone. Honestly, why do people go to the Tooth to climb? Perhaps because it's easy to get to, not very remote or wild. It's a convenient place to climb. Winter sportos pick that area for the same reason. Really, what else do you expect from a recreation area accessed directly from a major freeway?

We await the TR and photos/video.

Those 8 seconds could be the most profound moments of your life. There's something about facing death that makes life and reality feel so much more vivid and meaningful. On the other hand the pain and suffering of death I'm sure is usually horrible. So being able to confront one's own death, but without having to suffer? That may very well be a good way to die. Of course given the choice, I'd rather live...

This is where the thread was going before everybody got involved in their little personal issues. People need to learn how to turn the other cheek for the benefit of the greater good. (I'm not naming names or anything...) So how about it? The draw issue is complicated. No single person takes responsibility for them. Usually they are left up with the intention that others will use them, so the person who puts them up feels no responsibility to take them down. People who use them feel that they are someone else's, so they leave them alone. Probably the only time they come down is if someone feels they need to be replaced, or someone wants to use their own gear. So really there is no way the draws will ever disappear unless the route is deemed inactive, and someone goes and takes them down for this reason. On a sport route this is pretty much never. Now this is just my opinion, but I think that on a winter mixed route, the draws should come down as soon as the line is melted out. That is unless it's one of those wierd crags where people sport climb with ice gear in the summer, in which case that's not mixed climbing, it's A0. ps. Specific case, if it's a "project" i.e. somebody is marking their territory... the same rules should apply, and if they are broken, it's piss at your own risk.

Wouldn't want to waste those $1,000 components by actually pedaling.