ashw_justin

Crime and Punishment was more intertesting, and WAY shorter, than War and Peace. Was better than Anna Karenina too. But that's because Tolstoy was a romantic windbag! As far as climbing books are concerned, I got some free ones from Cpt. Caveman. I kind of flipped through Messner's Annapurna history book, didn't stop to read much in depth. I don't know, do the other ones suck? Give me a few more days on the throne to figure that out.

That guy looks badass. I bet he could take a trundle on the head while chalkin' up too.

It's funny how pre-placing gear went from somebody just doing it so they could work a project, to being an assumed and undebated fact of hard bolted climbing. If it is possible (and anything is possible...) to place the draws on lead, then that is how it should be climbed. But then again, alpine climbers leave fixed gear all over the place, in the wilderness so I don't see why they're bitching. What it comes down to is style. Preplacing/leaving gear is bad style. When climbers start doing real redpoints (i.e. no or minimal preplaced gear) of today's testpieces, the pinkpointers are going to feel a little lame.

coughcoughahpinkpointcough. Oh, pardon me.

That is sooooo dialed. But I thought there weren't any holds on 5.14?

So when does the feed go up. It's not working at this moment.

Post-modern rebel mosaic in protest to your old-world persecution of Dru's remix.

You'll ruin somebody's pinkpointing saga!

so it is! I always just linked straight to that noaa.gov site. Anyway you just need to know how to interpret those forecasts for specific areas... I always assume more rain and colder temps than forecasted for the Mt. Baker area. Actually the generality forecasts your motivation better than it does the weather. It always sounds good if you really want to go.

Am I totally missing the point of another spray thread, or does nobody go by the NWS forecasts, i.e. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/wrhq/TotalForecast.csh?TotalForecast+WR+WA+017+073+MAPCOORDS^81^18 ?

Why would there be any "facts" if they simply did not discipline him, or transfer him. Would a phone call from Daddy count as a "fact" and go into his files?

Dammit Dru where the other part of that picture. You know, the part without the prana top!!

I don't have Photoshop!!

Uh-oh here we go again. c0unt3r5t1k3 b10tch

At least you were there, man.

Dude, that's not Paul, you can see the background.

Shit man, that's great. Almost makes me wish I still lifted weights. I love that pukey feeling you get after a long set of powercleans.

No no, you can't deadlift or do any other olympic-style weight-lifting in the gym anymore, there's too much liability. They have multi-thousand dollar safety-slider-track-user-assistance racks for all pseudo-powerlifting.

Am I confused, or is Dateline one of those pseudo-news shock dramas?

nuthin at all...couldn't leave the house...i was too scared since i couldn't find my helmet... Yeah whatever, RuMR was all "I can't onsight this 9b++ because of all of the helmets and body armor I have on!"

My legs are rated to 873 kN!!

Nah man, it's on cnn.com, it must the 100% accurate, concrete reality!!

The counterexample (because math is fun ) is three pieces, 5, 9, and 9 kN, with a fall force of 18 kN. If all pieces are equalized statically, the 5 fails but the fall is held by the two 9's. Equalized dynamically (magic X) the 5 fails, and the two 9's take 18 kN plus whatever extra force is generated when the magic X extends, possibly overloading the 9's and RIP. Does anybody know how much extra force is actually generated when a magic X extends?