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ashw_justin

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Everything posted by ashw_justin

  1. American Football. What a fitting name for a sport that isolates itself from whence it originated (that's right: Rugby!). We could have the top rugby squad in the world if we didn't waste all of those athletes on football, then try to get other countries to play our game. NFL Europe? psshhhhhh. There's no honor in football. It's so sad to see the USA rugby squad get pummeled every four years.
  2. No sorry man, I missed that part. You hid it well.
  3. Damn I came to see if anybody else had anything to say, and instead I see your essay about your personal issues with other cc.comers. We don't really care if Mattp offended you. Can you guys go outside and beat the shit out of each other so that we get back on topic?
  4. No I think they did--the green "optimal" dots are damn near identical to overcamming range.
  5. Man, there's a reason it's still there. 2-3 months ago, armed with a coathanger, a nut tool, and a stick, I also atttempted to booty this cam (yes, it is the same one). I spent 2.5 hours hanging there (on lead, no less--had to go get the coathanger). 2.5 hours, constantly working to booty this cam. Every five minutes or so, I could get it to move a couple inches, then it would overcam again in the deviously undulating crack. This continued on the order of 30 times. When it got too dark to see, I broke the stick, which had become integral in my methods. I downclimbed in shame, defeated by the shiny little red metolius range-finder cam. I treated my uncomplaining belayer to dinner in exchange for his immensely boring duty. btw there was no quicklink on it 2 months ago, and just about every part of that crack does in fact overcam the cam, that is why it is still there.
  6. I honestly don't believe you'd have a Right (with a capital R) to be pissed off if somebody bootied your quickdraws after you left them there. Now don't get me wrong--if you took them, it would be wrong, and a mean and greedy thing to do, and you might get your ass kicked for doing it. But there is no written rule or law that sanctifies hung gear. There is only respect--respect is earned, and reciprocal.
  7. Crime and Punishment was more intertesting, and WAY shorter, than War and Peace. Was better than Anna Karenina too. But that's because Tolstoy was a romantic windbag! As far as climbing books are concerned, I got some free ones from Cpt. Caveman. I kind of flipped through Messner's Annapurna history book, didn't stop to read much in depth. I don't know, do the other ones suck? Give me a few more days on the throne to figure that out.
  8. That guy looks badass. I bet he could take a trundle on the head while chalkin' up too.
  9. It's funny how pre-placing gear went from somebody just doing it so they could work a project, to being an assumed and undebated fact of hard bolted climbing. If it is possible (and anything is possible...) to place the draws on lead, then that is how it should be climbed. But then again, alpine climbers leave fixed gear all over the place, in the wilderness so I don't see why they're bitching. What it comes down to is style. Preplacing/leaving gear is bad style. When climbers start doing real redpoints (i.e. no or minimal preplaced gear) of today's testpieces, the pinkpointers are going to feel a little lame.
  10. coughcoughahpinkpointcough. Oh, pardon me.
  11. That is sooooo dialed. But I thought there weren't any holds on 5.14?
  12. So when does the feed go up. It's not working at this moment.
  13. Post-modern rebel mosaic in protest to your old-world persecution of Dru's remix.
  14. You'll ruin somebody's pinkpointing saga!
  15. so it is! I always just linked straight to that noaa.gov site. Anyway you just need to know how to interpret those forecasts for specific areas... I always assume more rain and colder temps than forecasted for the Mt. Baker area. Actually the generality forecasts your motivation better than it does the weather. It always sounds good if you really want to go.
  16. Am I totally missing the point of another spray thread, or does nobody go by the NWS forecasts, i.e. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/cgi-bin/wrhq/TotalForecast.csh?TotalForecast+WR+WA+017+073+MAPCOORDS^81^18 ?
  17. Why would there be any "facts" if they simply did not discipline him, or transfer him. Would a phone call from Daddy count as a "fact" and go into his files?
  18. Dammit Dru where the other part of that picture. You know, the part without the prana top!!
  19. I don't have Photoshop!!
  20. Uh-oh here we go again. c0unt3r5t1k3 b10tch
  21. At least you were there, man.
  22. Dude, that's not Paul, you can see the background.
  23. Shit man, that's great. Almost makes me wish I still lifted weights. I love that pukey feeling you get after a long set of powercleans.
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