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ashw_justin

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Everything posted by ashw_justin

  1. All I know is if I had a few hundred $$$ burning a hole in my pocket I'd love to try some. The only plates I've used are the Voile splitboard plates and they are minimal in many respects.
  2. ...difference in difficulty between a 5.8 and 5.9 is not four times less than that between 5.10a and 5.11a... The only way you would be able to do math like this on ratings is if they were based on at least one measurable variable, which they are not. There is no mathematical basis behind ratings or the numbers used in them.
  3. Anybody who attends a Michael Moore event is already going to vote against Bush. ...and having clean underwear (or not) will not affect their chances of actually voting.
  4. how about a shirt that says on the front: Sharma. Yugi. Caldwell. Huber. etc etc and on the back it says: are PINKPOINTERS
  5. Hmmm sounds about right. Still, I failed to recognize any obvious overhanging hand crack. We saw a crack off the the left, maybe that was it?
  6. Translation: "You're either breathing so hard it's the only thing you can think about, or you're so gripped you forget to breathe."
  7. NOW which one of these is the green camalot...
  8. I wonder what it would be like to climb cracks blindfolded. Pretty cool I bet!
  9. Forgive my butchering, but here's the variation we did (in red). Impatient youngin's we are. My question is, are the yellow lines routes, and if they are, what are they and are they described in Beckey?
  10. Now there isn't necessarily anything wrong with someone who spends more time thinking than talking. But that would assume that one is doing their own thinking.
  11. Hey look what else I found on that site. http://forums.climbing.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=308&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
  12. Hey I'm just trying to help out our economy. Think of how many jobs I am creating. Under my plans, status-climbing will require a full entourage of hard working individuals, laborers, overseers, and inspectors. They will work hard to ensure that the climber attains badassness by the most impeccable standards, at the same time re-mobilizing a weakening global economy. Eventually the sport will facet into a multilateral team effort, with the assistant chief chalk-expungement engineer being given as equal credit to the ascent as the strategical execution specialist (prev. "climber"). The highest earnings and repute will of course go to the Director of Ascent (DOA) whose task is to ensure the smooth functioning of the unit, as well as dictate proper choreography to the specialist (ps: many cc.comers show promise for this highly valued position).
  13. How do you onsight 5.14? I thought the holds were invisible? On a related note, how many onsights are not really onsights, due to the fact that all the holds are chalked up? I'm betting most of them. Probably not too much chalk on 5.14's though.
  14. Who'd a thought, the music in the university gym is actually pretty good. Tonight was Built To Spill.
  15. Black Diamond's answer to Metolius Range Finder Cams. The Graphalot-85.
  16. My point is, how has America gotten to the point where this type of activity is acceptable? It's not. Duh. Road rage has nothing to do with politics. The specific incident that prompted this thread WAS politically-motivated, as the perpetrator went on and on about the victim's choice of candidates (as advertised by his bumper sticker). Yes, but this is not acceptable. Rather, it was an excuse for some asshole to be an asshole.
  17. My point is, how has America gotten to the point where this type of activity is acceptable? It's not. Duh. Road rage has nothing to do with politics. But speaking of road rage, I got cut off by some bitch in a big black obese SUV this morning while bike commuting. She was trying to pass traffic on the right, in a parking lane, and nearly ran into another bicyclist. I think she deserves an honorary Bush/Cheney bumper sticker.
  18. "Break out or be clowned, baby doll are you down?"
  19. Well at least it's better spent than spending billions promoting illegal wars or something.
  20. I'm also voting for Kerry, but I think I'd go for this instead.
  21. Come down to Little Si, I'll belay for you. I ain't carrying no crashpad though!
  22. Yeah, those of us with cable modem save so much time. Oh, wait...
  23. I've seen and partaken of the spoils from a dumpster raid at Trader Joes...
  24. Spend a few days at Mt. Baker ski area. Go midweek on powder days, savoring every turn that $30 buys you. Then do some backcountry for a while. There are several different areas to earn your turns out there. At some point take a multi-day trip up to Whistler/Blackcomb (being sure to buy discount tickets in B'ham, they were $10 off at Haggens last year). Do some more backcountry. Soon spring season will roll around, and then it's time to start hitting the higher peaks for corn (Ruth, Twin Sisters, Shuksan, Baker).
  25. You gotta be more specific john. Of course you can use your cordelette as a prussik. Just tie the knots, then tie off and decide where to stow the slack. Or invent a configuration like dryad's. maybe this artwork will help. (rope)|(prussik knot)======(loop)=======(tie-off knot)&^%$(slack)^#(&$% Otherwise, it seems like you are expecting some kind of genius rope trick for setting up a 15-to-1 self-tending ratcheting hauling system...?
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