John Frieh

Rob @ mtn athlete says if he could only have one piece of equipment to train with it would be a heavy bag

PM

Too bad all the cheap asses who work in PDX but live in Vancouver clog up the freeways so I cant make the drive to Beacon in a reasonable amount of time

Thursday? What time?

Rob will be doing the same seminar (see above) in Portland in September! Shoot me a PM if you have any questions/etc

Well said. +1

Part 1 I suspect Rob will post part 2 tomorrow or this week.

Beautiful pics! Thanks for sharing!

inFERNo! I vote Fern gets her own smilie

Oh yeah... Forbidden? North Ridge is easiest @ 5.0... or are one of the faces easier?

Strictly by the rating: North Early Winter Spire (sw face: 5.6+) Lexington Tower (east gully: easy 5th class) Minuteman (east face: 5.8/A1 or 5.10) Liberty Bell (beckey route: 5.6) Burgundy (corkscrew route: 5.6) Chianti (north face: 5.6) but it sounds like you are put more stock in the overall grade... yes? If so then potentially: Goode (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) Challenger (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) Himmelhorn (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) Inspiration (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) German Helmet (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) Dorado Needle (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) Gunsight (have to climb at least 5th class to summit via any route) ???

Poor kevbone: little does he know this trip is going to burst his "beacon is the best crag in the state of washington... if not the world" bubble Have fun nerds!

I might be a little late (~6:15) but sounds like McKenzie also. I dont care what we climb... nothing too hard please

This one deserves 6 stars also... cc.com should start paying you for your TRs Paul! Oh yeah: Flagpole would be another one but I dont know if it fits that P400 quantity over quality stuff criteria you guys carry on about

I could/should be there by 6.

Tuesday: what time? Post in the other thread

Nice work Mark and Forrest! Reading this I cant help but think of all the "great climbs without a second ascent" threads where people (myself included) postulate away about which routes havent seen a second ascent yet because lets face it... if there isnt a TR on cc.com there is no way it has been climbed... all the while the Mark's and the Forrest's and the Rat's and the Dan's and the Roger's and so on are out there sending this shit and planning their next climb instead of shouting about it. Great example guys! I need to climb more and post less!

I got mine just before they started offering them with the Lith Ion battery... I havent switched yet as my older batteries are still going strong. And you can drill a lot of holes.

I own a Hilti TE 6A. Not sure if he still has one or not but of everyone I know JosephH has the most experience with the TE 6A. Bill Coe has a slick lil dawg

sunday. doubtful unless you are CWU's first overweight mid/late 30s track team member we saw but didnt bump into any one else. 4 of us total.

Ingalls? yes

This just in: snow more or less from hairpin up to the DEB. Route was completely dry. Descent (south arete) is snow free also.

The ridge has a few "notches" in it... the most referred to one that I believe people are referring to in this thread is the one that is more or less 1/2 up the ridge... the access couloir from the stuart glacier will deposit you here. Reaching this notch is basically either half way (if you are doing the CNR) or the start of the actual rock climbing (if you came up the access couloir). When you buy Nelson's Selected it will make more sense There are a few bivy sites along the upper portion (i.e. above the notch) of the ridge including one below the great gendarme. But why bivy when you can climb in day Maps: USGS is what I use but I dont have a strong opinion on this one...

I hit snow before ingalls pass and was on snow all the way over to ingalls... no idea how much snow is on the actual ridge but the snow on the approach is going to seriously slow you down and result in a potential +24 hour day c2c. I'd say wait if you can and do it in July. Timing it just right during the summer and you can actually do the CNR with out setting foot on snow the entire way (so no pons or axe!) if you pick a smart line from goat pass down to the toe of the NR. Your memory serves you well the turn off to ingalls pass comes very very quickly out of the parking lot... the sign is currently falling over but is kind of propped up with a pile of rocks. Basically @ the very first trail split out of the parking lot you need to take a right. This will take you up to Ingalls pass. If you hike more than 5 minutes out of the parking lot and dont see anything you likely missed the turn! Later in the season after all the snow is gone at some point on the way up to Ingalls pass the trail will split again... stay to the left... going to the right will take you up to longs pass.

Firing the complete (or even just the upper) in a day car to car generally requires either approaching or deproaching in the dark... usually some combination of both. Though most people wont admit to it generally their first time coming in mtneers creek they stood around and scratched their heads at least once... if not got lost. Trying to "onsight" the mtneers creek approach in the dark is a great way to frustrate yourself. People will also screw it up on the way out (long day climbing the ridge + dehydration + dark = marco polo) Though slightly easier to do in the dark the Ingalls approach is also easy to screw up... people commonly loose the cairns on the way up to Ingalls lake or drop down too far on the way up to stuart pass. So what to do? As climbing with bivy gear is the suck IMO approach via mtneers creek in the daylight and camp just below the moraine @ the last possible water. A smart climber would get an alpine start on approach day so they would get to the moraine with plenty of time to lounge around, rest up/hydrate and perhaps hike their rack/rope up to the top of the moraine (if not higher?) so they dont have to carry it in the morning and they get a chance to scope out what they will be doing the following morning. On the second day fire the complete or just UNR. Enjoy Keep in mind it isnt climbing fast that will get you up the ridge... everyone climbs about the same speed... its the standing around/# of belay change overs/rest breaks/etc that will have a larger impact on the amount of time spent on the ridge. Basically stay on task or plan on an unplanned bivy Descend via the Sherpa back to your kit and either hike out or spend another night. Do your homework before you go and read all the TRs/stuart descent beta threads on this site (you'll have to dig but they are there) so you have an easier time finding and descending the correct couloir. I saw it mentioned to camp near ingalls lake and then do the ridge the next day... this doesnt really help you IMO as camping @ Ingalls really only saves you an hour or two on the approach but it adds an hour or two on the way out as instead of going straight up to Longs pass you have to hike all the way to your kit and then over ingalls pass then back to the car. No real advantage to it beyond being a great camping spot If you must/want to do the route C2C in a day I think the ingalls/longs pass combo is the better option. I was on Ingalls this last weekend and there is still a ton of snow for this time of year so if you are thinking about stuie in a day Id wait at least a few weekends... having to deal with snow on the approach will only slow you down. Lastly check the sunrise/sunset times on the web. Try to be @ the start of the technical climbing (either the first pitch of the CNR or the couloir for the UNR) @ first light (dawn).