John Frieh

Wednesday 7/23?

The shirt says "Dirtbags" not "Dirtbag" so I doubt it is the same company especially since I bought those (I have one too) from Turn Table Lab in Brooklyn in 2002 or so...

I look forward to documenting that trip

Looking forward to it dude! Stay safe until then

Thanks! That descent is recommended in my book assuming you have 2 60 meter ropes. The climb back up the col sucks a little but if you're smart about it then that descent is faster

Trip: Sawtooths: On the Warpath Date: 7/18/2008 Trip Report: Summary: 8/17: PDX -> Stanley -> Redfish Lake Shuttle -> EP turnoff 8/18: Elephant's Perch: Splitgerber - March Direct 8/19: Warbonnet Peak Details: Little late in kicking off sawtooth season this year due to the epic amounts of snow they received this past winter (some of which is still hanging around!) but... here we are: 2008. Announcing the return of the handlebar mustache: Stewart_Harbalski Double bonus for matching shirt and haircut :cool: Joining us for the kick off was Team Harro... neither of them had climbed on the Elephant's Perch so we thought introductions were appropriate Team Harro opted for the classic Mountaineer's Route (perhaps they will post some pics?) while Brock and I racked up for Splitgerber - March Direct or as we came to know it: Splitter Burger pitch 1: RHC up through the roof I'm in the bush! pitch 2 pitch 3: pitch 4: pitch 5: After 5 and some change we joined Team Harro on the top Public notice: this hot firefighter is taken (you know who you are ) Day 2 saw us on the warpath to Warbonnet Peak... unfortunately for us the warpath is really long hike from the EP stache @ the pass... of many Fortunately for us the warpath had some nice scenery... ... Paging Mr Wayne Wallace. Mr Wayne Wallace... And finally the beachhead: Warbonnet Peak Once more unto the breach Shock and awe Surge strategy Exit Strategy Drawdown and withdrawl Until next weekend... PS: pooling? Send me a PM Gear Notes: mustache comb the 11th Essential: waist belt buckle Approach Notes:

Shot blocks have a TON of sugar though They taste great though!

:lmao: I dont know if Ivan feels the same way about that story... you should ask him

After ~40 meter of soloing WI3 to a WI3+ step Yeah... lets rope up here. You dont have the rope? I thought you had the rope! Where's the rope? ... Shit.

Spanish Lager = water water > kokanee QED Guess Dru is right

Dude... breakfast! Right along with my stumptown! Get with the program! Before I get into it a trick I commonly employ is empty a GU shot (hammer gel works best for this because it is the least viscous of all the gels on the market) into 16 or 32 ounces of water or even better water already containing a drink mix. IMO seems to really help with the flavor of the water (especially if you treated the water with Iodine) and/or the drink mix. This trick is also a great way to get your calories when you cant force yourself to choke down yet another GU shot... Id say try it once. This could be a little difficult given "taste" is high on the list but here goes... Cytomax: works as a pre/during drink. No protein so wouldnt work as a recovery drink. Basically what Gatorade should be (Pros: cheap if you dig around online, tastes good but can become "too sweet" for longer events Cons: 12g/sugar per serving, no protein so you cant use it as a post/recovery drink) The rest of these are Hammer Products... I'm biased but I have had really really good results with them: HEED: works as a pre/during drink. Basically what Gatorade should be (Pros: 2g/sugar per serving, hardly any taste to it so goes down easy. This + GU or Hammer Gel would be a solid combo for longer days Cons: Spendy for day in day out use, no protein so you cant use it as a post/recovery drink) Sustained Energy and/or Perpetuem: For those long long days... when I "raced" ultras I consumed more Perpetuem than I care to admit. Sustained Energy is supposedly "tasteless"... if you ask me I think it tastes like paste (dont act like you didnt eat paste in kindergarten... you post here dont you ) but you can mask that with a GU shot or something. The closest you will come to a "meal in a glass" (Pros: shit works... if you gotta fuel for a big big day this is the way to go Cons: too spendy for day in day out use) Recoverite: This is the best post workout (done for the day) mix I have found. Really really helps with soreness the next day (when used in combo with a respectable diet) especially if you do a double workout day (CrossFit in the morning, rock gym in the night or something like that). They sell individual packets of this @ REI among other places... try it! I live off this stuff during ice season... I am convinced this in combo with a good diet and preseason training is what let me climb 5 days straight this past ice season on a few trips. Carry it in the mountains! Just dont use it as a pre/during drink... not designed for that. And speaking of I really like mixing that Clif Bar hot chocolate in with my stumptown when ice climbing... seems I never eat as much as I should when ice climbing so this is a good way to get some protein. I guess you could just use regular protein but I like the taste of this stuff... In a nutshell for me: Foundation: solid training program and diet < 2 hours pre/during: HEED or cytomax or Hammer Gel > 2 hours pre/during: Perpetuem + Hammer Gel Post: Recoverite For a lot of the < 2 hour stuff I just rely on a good diet + water to get me through it unless I am planning on trying for redpoint or something and then I might consider HEED or a GU or something but generally I dont reach for the supplements unless it is going to be > 2 hours.

Send it to BD. Be honest and offer to pay... you might have to but chances are they hook you up. Even if you do end up paying they do top job repairs for cheap cheap cheap. Putting cookies or a pound of really good coffee in the box when you mail it to them helps

I think you meant "Buhler? Buhler? Webb?" Post workout (done for that day) or something to sip off through out an endurance activity?

Bozeman in the house! Way to ride 'em boys! I gotta ask: did that take care of all the climbs on your dusty post it note? If not what's left? Or did you already make a new one?

Another one for me: getting a TR burn on an Alex Lowe ice route Black Magic in Hyalite (not my picture!): It doesnt form every year so I was stoked to not only be in Hyalite when it was in but be with people strong enough to lead it! The route is 5.10 to the ice (it is a bunch of side pulls and hand jams so it is actually easier to rock climb than drytool) and then WI5 to top. Amazing and humbling considering Alex put it up in 1986 with plastic boots, quasars and leashes I think I hung like 2 or 3 times But yeah: huge grin on the hike out that day

Good idea dude but as a lot of people click the "Past 24 hours" link instead of the "Past 24 Hrs w/ Spray" link they might miss some of these good threads...

Sooooooo pumped leading this... I think it is the most pumped I have ever gotten with out actually falling off something... so pumped I kept running it out in between pieces (6 screws in 65 meters) because I figured if I stopped to place another screw I would literally fall off my tools (no leashes... was using a spring thing). I keep a fifi on my harness in the alpine... I grabbed it twice (@ ~35 and 45 meters) but couldnt bring myself to fifi in. I think Dave heard me at the belay telling myself to "climb your 70 meters and STFU!" When I finally said off belay I was very stoked/satisfied that I had hugged it out and it was Dave's lead next Hey Rudy: why is this in Spray?

I hiked out from White Rocks down all of Downey Creek to Suiattle River Road a few summers ago... that SE face on Dome isnt the only really big face in there Speaking of white rocks that ridge Nelson climbed on Elephant's Head looks awesome too!

SW Ridge of the SW Peak of Dome: July 1992. Rating: 5.10. Time: unverified. Technically not "on" Dome but one could continue from the SW summit to the true summit. My offer stands... Darin?

I dont have my beckey @ work... sorry... I'll check when I get home. I believe it's the one with the cannon hole on it... I know Doorish has a ridge on Dome that goes @ "Doorish 5.10" I'd rope up for it and carry all the group gear if someone promises to lead any/all pitches I dont want

First Fall Ever (not exactly trad): approx. 100 m fall head first (on chest) on SE slopes of N sister (approx. 50 degree slope) at the age of 15ish... lost ax immediately (hence length of fall) proceeded to rip both pickets and partners belay... slid roped together before partners body striking a series of rock outcroppings "arrested" the fall… human stopper nut? Partner broke foot in addition to a "few" brusies... went into shock... etc etc... I walked away with meatloaf arms (sleeves were pushed up at time). We both managed to “walk” out to pole creek… Sidenote: on drive home proceeded to fall asleep behind wheel and drift through oncoming 4th of July weekend traffic on 126... woke up in ditch on other side of road... partner looked at me and said "what are you trying to kill me or something?"... car only received minor dent. First Trad Fall: 8ish footer on a black metolius @ the columns in Eugene. I think I was 16??? It was Brock's first "catch"... he has gone on to catch many more of my falls Best Fall I have ever witnessed: Ivan. Ice Cliff Glacier. Unroped head first on his back in the dark. Still makes me sick when I think about it

Doorish's ridge route on Dome looks awesome. Since everyone seems to make such a big deal about it I believe it's unrepeated

Good chance I can make Tuesday. 5:30?

Hey all If your schedule allows I would highly recommend attending movie night... should be a great opportunity to meet a bunch of potential partners and drink Also keep an eye on the climb night thread... fellow cc.comers climb ~1 a week after work... would also be a great opportunity to meet some partners and get some laps in

Hey babe, he wanted to call me out on that shit. Anyone who wants to have a night out on the town with me followed by a workout in the morning is welcome. Fern would crush you Organize something when you are in WA and Ill come up to