John Frieh

I agree with him for the most part.

Talk to Twight; not me. He said it...

Twight had an excellent opinion of the butt he discussed in his article about czech direct for climbing (or rock and ice... can't recall). Something to the effect "hauling a plastic sled up a 30 degree slope... people will call anything climbing..."

You take glucosamine sulfate for you skin? Ummm... that's recommended for joints; specifically for suffers of osteoarthritis. I load it two weeks prior to big races, but for my knees NOT my skin. It should be pointed out that unless you have osteoarthritis, you shouldn't take it continuously as some studies have shown that it degrades cartilage over time: something you'll need if you plan to continue to climb. On an unrelated side note it gives you WICKED gas (if its a sulfur based derivative). Collin: give up chalk (Pusher recommends it as one of the best ways to enhance training on their website) and learn to take rest days. 4-6 times a week is well on your way to elbow/joint issues. You'd probably start climbing harder if you actually allowed your body some recover time.

What kind of feet do you have? Flat, narrow, wide, etc.? Do you plan to scramble and/or climb moderate rock in them? How are your ankles? Fit will be the key to your new pair of shoes. I personally wear and race ultras in montrails but because they fit my feet as well as hold up for 3 months. If montrail fits you the d7 is hot shit.

Turds. You're all turds.

I will have to dig them out and scan them, but I have some pics for you. What route are you looking at? I will warn you the approach in has thee worst slide alder I have ever crawled through (worse than dome!).

Learnign to walk with crampons on is harder than you thought, huh? Depends on size; if its not too big sew it shut with some industrial thread (carpet thread is good) that is nylon and then put a thin covering of seam sealer on both sides. If it is good sized, consider sending it back to the company (esp. arcteryx). I put a 2' cut in the upper sleeve of a hardface pullover; they just put a whole new sleeve on (for free not less).

About the weather or about smith?

Somebody better let willstrickland know... lord knows he is always looking for more Mountie thread material. Maybe he could capture some video... I wonder if blue blocker man will be making an appearance… How cool would it be to get a photo with him?

Update?

Glanced at it once at the trade show: looked okay (assuming memory serves me true... too much gear... too many companies... can't keep it all straight); obviously some stuff was bunk (clothing). What are you in the market for?

My photos of this climb as well as the second route we climbed may be viewed in the gallery.

Ask the boss... she'll know.

Check your email.

Hey Pete Did you get to ski anything? I know I saw you up a Muir on Sat. What a zoo huh?

Do you know if it was before they switched to the heavier fabric or not? I guess what I'm trying to say is it one of the 3 lb ones or does it weigh ~ 4 lbs like the new ones?

What year? If this is your third, why are you selling it unused? My friend might be interested.

Skyclimb: There is a lesson for me to learn here: don’t post after climbing 2 routes on Rainer in a weekend until I catch up on sleep and coffee intake. Obviously I misinterpreted your TR as others were kind enough to point out. In the future I should ask questions first before firing. The point I failed to make was my support with Iain’s concern over parties getting off route on the Reid and shit happening. As I have met you once before (at the OMC gear swap) and know you generally climb with the OMC (I could have swore you told me you were a member), I knew this could be a potentially violate mix. Obviously everyone on this page has criteria for what they look for in a potential partner. When I transferred to OSU from U of O I checked out the OMC (as I was in need of some new partners) and was frankly appalled with the organization, or lack of. It seemed to me that they substituted training classes with drinking sessions at the grasslands. Furthermore, there wasn’t (still till this day) a faculty rep overseeing the whole operation. Obviously this is my opinion and some might disagree with it, but I think the OMC’s accident record speaks for itself. You are obviously allowed to decide with who and how you climb and it’s not my place to say otherwise. I hope you understand what I was trying to say and that it wasn’t my intention to bag on you or your climb. I do stand by my comments regarding the OMC and hope others consider them before signing on to a trip with them. Lastly, I know its not me you think you are seeing at the meeting as I lived in PDX since spring break. How is Greg? Did he need stitches or anything?

How do you see me at the OMC meetings when I live in Portland (and if you don't believe me ask Jane or Trish)? How did you see me at the only BBQ OMC has put on this term (last Thursday) when I was on Rainer with girlclimber and Terry? Sounds like you need to lay off the Hmmm... maybe next time you think you see me come over and introduce yourself... I think you will be idly surprised. And you insinuated a FA/new variation with this: No one is calling you weak or stupid and I'm definitely not interested in resorting to childish name calling. I just hope you reconsider the possible repercussions of your choices in the mountains.

Excellent trip report Terry; it was great to have you along. I’ll have you know To The Top worked Girlclimber and myself over for details about the climb to heckle you about. I think he was a little envious… Some minor (but important) additions to the gear list: facon (fake bacon for all you clueless carnivores) and chocolate in various forms provided the crucial calories to get us through the thick of it prior to sunrise. And yes: girlclimber and her father (if he ever joins the site I think his login name should be dadclimber) allowed me to tag along as they climbed gib. Ledges on Friday night. It was comical (at least for me) to listen to the two compare notes on how much snow conditions had changed on the route in the past few weeks… one cannot truly grasp how much knowledge these two possess in regards to Rainer; I am fortunate to have been allowed to benefit from it as well as the opportunity to climb with two truly passionate climbers. We topped in 6 hours (though this would have been faster if I wasn't along) which put us on top within 24 hours of our last climb. And my boss always wonders why I’m tired on Monday… Girlclimber said she might post a TR for gib ledges (I think she should). Both girlclimber and myself took some pics of the icefall on the way out; hopefully we can get them posted soon.

Iain I know it might seem like they would need to be giving away free beer to sucker some more kids into something stupid regardless of what happened last weekend; perhaps it might clear things up if you understand that skyclimb is a member of the Oregon State University Mountaineering Club (OMC). You know... the club that even though is geographically located further away from potentially serious routes that other clubs at larger universities (U. of Colorado, U. of Washington for example) is still able to boast the highest fatality and accident rate of any university. How else would you explain such contradicting comments as: "Minimal rockfall and icefall. My friend Greg took a nice shot to the face." Though I could be wrong; I'm guessing this Greg skyclimb mentions is the same Greg of OMC fame (president/former president of the club) that almost died in an avalanche on Sandy last year. If at first you don't succeed... And to have the audacity to boast "Possible the only party in existence to do this." Hmmm... Mt Hood was first climbed in 1857. To think that there are unclimbed lines still on Mt Hood more than a century later can only be a product of existing in the bubble of self righteousness that only the OMC could create. Skyclimb: I hate to rain on your parade, but there have been a lot of hard men and women that came before you and at this rate will outlive you that probably climbed that line (and many others on Hood) but were humble enough to not report some one pitch variation that isn't even worth climbing again anyways. Congrats on pulling off a climb in the face of unexpected conditions. I hope Greg is well and was not seriously hurt. Most importantly I hope you seriously sit down and reconsider why and for who you climb for and how it is affecting the manner and style in which you climb. I'm sorry if my words seem harsh, but when individuals fail to heed the recent mistakes of others; a more direct approach is needed.

Word.

Technically speaking; skirting right to the bowling alley is not climbing EMC but I won’t give you shit for it (though someone on this page will). The EMC proper top out is generally snow with a little rock mixed in. Underneath it you will notice that depending on which line you take will dictate the steepness of the finish. When I climbed it (years ago) the left went easier (i.e. less steep). Pro is mental. Take some pickets if you are so inclined though the route isn’t that steep. Go only if it is super cold; that route is nothing more than a garbage funnel. Try to top out prior to sunrise. If you are looking for quality snow routes; check out either coulior route on stuart. Feel free to post any other Q’s you have.

I'll gladly introduce you to the alpine world if you take me surfing... PM if interested.