John Frieh

In all truth and honesty there are a pair of crampons, 2 pickets and 3 nuts still up there.

I thought sporto fairy bitches only clipped Petzl. WTF?

Work.

Didn't get it yet... mods must be working over time. Where were we?

Actually I have a 2 gauge PA... ever wonder how your wife chipped her tooth?

Anonymous like people who are comfortable criticizing others climbers or their climbing but won't post a TR. My info is in my profile or drytool thread if you want it.

Almost as fierce as punk bitches hiding behind anonymous avatars and DSL lines.

How bald can you get before you can't get laid and are forced into a life of internet spray and midget porn?

Exactly.

Headed to Texas first week in March; looking for climbing area suggestions. Specifically I have a 2 day weekend, free rental car and inexperience newbie partner at my disposal. Additionally I have the whole week to get into trouble in the evenings. What are… -some good sport/bouldering areas I could check out with a newbie (preferable ample amounts of easy clip ups) over the weekend. - some good bouldering areas close to Austin I could hit after 5 pm? - some local “venues of interest ” worth scoping… the closer to Austin the better. - finally does anyone have a climbing contact (preferable with a trad rack) that would be interested in showing me around/climbing trad near Austin?

Having a different opinion is acceptable fox. You don't have to feel threatened that someone is going to cut you down just because you haven't worked 4 years in gear shops and completed 2 NOLS courses by 19... only I do. I agree wind is a concern but if DrC is going to climb alpine (perhaps DrC could list a few routes that he feels he would bring this on in addition to the time of year so we could better answer his question) he should bring a layer that he isn't going to trash unless he has money to throw around. He should bring a layer that will protect him from wind and stand up to rock abuse... something stretch. Sorry for contributing.

Unexpected rain. I almost exclusively use my Arcteryx Tau for running in... it occasionally gets to tag along on alpine routes… Usually I take a gamma lt jacket or pullover instead. Wind is generally not a concern in these parts.

Why do I even bother?

Yet another

I will not digress into a discussion on MT’s proposed layering system here as the kids are obviously restless and would love nothing more than additional material for continued needling. Go read it yourself and post questions if you have any. Anyways... if you are buying something for the wind don't bother with a wind shirt. Wind shirts (at least the ones you listed) aren't wind proof. And the wind shirts you listed will get eaten on fist – offwidth cracks. Take a dependable weather forecast over an extra “oh crap” layer… they weigh less. If you think you might get wet just change what you are going to climb in. Extra “just in case” layers will only slow you down so you do get caught in the approaching storm.

duuuude you're gonna blow the onsight of the sit start to diamond life now for sure! maybe you can cut the bristles off your toothbrush to compensate My point is 5 ounces of repair material is a lot of holes. Therefore DrC should expect even more holes as the kappa is beefier than then either of those 2 jackets. Work with me here...

Assumptions only get one into trouble. And at the end of the day none of us know exactly what DrC is going to do with it so it would be asinine to just run one's mouth off about which one is better based on an assumption. The first thing they teach you in outdoor retail is ask the customer what they hope to do with the item before recommending an item. I opened my mouth only to demonstrate the legitimacy of his question. And you should ask Jim to clarify “pretty well”. My Arcteryx Kappa (much beefier than a wind shirt) has gained 5 ounces in weight due to all the holes Arcteryx has patched for me over the past 4 years… the back of the jacket now looks like polka dots. Additionally: I shredded a WT windshirt on 1 weekend at WA pass.

Email Terry.

Good lord, it's a shirt, not a spacecraft. If Dr C plans to layer it over a base layer in a manner similar to what Twight describes in EA then he should get the WT model and save some weight (I suspect this is the case). However if he plan on carrying it in the late spring or early fall as an emergency layer for surprise showers then he should get the patagonia hoody. The WT isn't beefy enough to stand up to alpine rock as an outer layer where as the patagonia one will barely suffice in a pinch (don't plan on making a habit out of it). Additional the Patagonia one has a hood which will keep him a bit drier. Trying to layer the Patagonia piece similar to how twight proposes isn’t the best as the hood will get in the way especially if he wears slings around his body.

How do you plan to use it?

I be implying that you now need to either mantle your lower tool or figure 9 to reach the next hold and as it was your new nemesis... well it just got a little harder. I hope to be climbing Thursday up north so it might be the case that I have to cut early… more later.

For those of you keeping score at home Rainey Pass is 18 miles from the west side closure... hmmm... are you thinking what I'm thinking? Let me know if you need a partner. Thanks for the condition update!

Yes I have some but I'm not parting with any of mine. Try ebay and bring your credit card. Speaking of... any one with a wooden ice axe willing to part with it... PM me with item and price.

I don't know... I'm a chemist