John Frieh

Great route! "terrible" is an understatement for that schwack.

Did you get any pics or take a look at the north face? Dry?

VW bug. I will never forget the look on Pete's face... And let's not forget the death of one climber that happened in the early 90s when the entire ridge he was on crumbled beneath him and he fell to his death. I think it was either on the summit point or near there. Jefferson in anything but snow.

World's tallest gravel pile. Long hump to get in (by OR standards). I would recommend looking at other mtns if you can't come until June.

Word word word. But if you are going to bivy do it on the moraine ridge climber's left of the couloir entrance.

I believe Nelson's book says the same thing... could be wrong though... Regardless sorry if my comments were misleading. I do think any competent, fit party who is familiar with the approach (the crux) can tick this route in a day car to car.

Ladies and guys on this website with significant others/wives that climb (oh... wait... nevermind! this is cc.com ) Female climbing partner is in the market for a fully adjustable harness and a pair of all day trad shoes (emphasis on crack usability). What do you have? What do you like? If you want PM me with reqs if you are worried about cc weirdos (Dave Schuldt) stalking this thread and pming any one who posts...

Depends on season. I have recent (last couple of years) pics of the chickamin from white rocks, the top of flattop, top of snowdome and the col in the months of June, July, and Sept. if it would help. When you thinking about going? Camping: Not exactly on the col but below it (chickamin) you could squeeze in 2 tents easy (though you would have to dig a platform). FYI: east of gunsight fell down for the most part.

details Too far from Eugene?!? WA pass is easily worth the 7 hour drive my friend. Especially if you are going to be there for 3 days!

SGC should still be in but with this heat it will be going fast. You can easily climb either of those routes in a day car to car. Another option to consider would be stay in there and do both routes (SGC and IC). Other options in the area to consider would be the north ridge of sherpa (a good warm up for Stuart N ridge) or something on Dragontail or Colchuck. WA pass should also be nice (though its been over a few weeks so I've been there so I don't know how the snow pack is); you can easily link multiple routes in a day there. Finally you might want to consider snagging the west or east (or both) ridge of Forbidden. It will only get more crowded as the year goes on. PM me if you have specific questions. Don't force the north ridge of stuie... it stays in as late as Oct! And if you do the IC keep your eyes open for a quark ergo!

I thought "dog in a bathtub" was all the rage these days and not gerbils bob.

I ponyed up for a Nikon Coolscan also. Worth it and I feel I didn't lose any quality from the slide. Make sure you get someone who is a student buy it at student pricing for the best price (but still be prepared to drop a grand for a nicer model + a tray loader).

So no new snow below the moraine? Any pics?

Are you looking for climbs for this weekend?

Heard just past cling on and desperate man: "Dru!!!!! SLACK!" Could it be??? Crowds weren't too bad if you know where to hide... it was a canadian holiday or some shit. I goddamn heard "aye" or what ever the fuck it is enough times I'm saying it. I'll say this: canadians suck at picking girls up. Didn't have to worry about my patagonia top getting grabbed.

I think I spotted Dru.

Windshirts are aid beeyotch! Where you at smith this weekend?

Welcome to the board! Do you absolutely need to do the route this soon? Can you put it off for a few weeks? If you do wait all the snow will be gone and you can climb the route much faster and not have to carry bivy gear which will only make the climbing that much more enjoyable. Ask yourself: do I really want to bumble around with pack hauling on the gendarme? If you have to do it soon and insist on bivying the bivy sites at the cheater notch is very nice. The other ones listed are also adequate (though I’ve never slept at any of them). When ever you go make sure to post a TR when you get back!

Just leave the car so that you get to the base at dawn. Even if you are slow generally people don't show up until 8:30 at the earliest so no worries about pissing people off. I have always had the route to myself in the winter... weekend or not.

Way to get shit done regardless of the weather d00d!

PDX climb (rock/sport/drytool) night: events forum.

Where have you kids been all winter? PDX climb (rock/sport/drytool) night: events forum. See you there!

I saw quite the clusterfuck on monkey this past weekend (specifically sunday)... how did it go? Did the masses of vacationing canadians log jam the aid pitch?

Whne you say "not just scrambles" does that mean you only want 5th class rock from base to summit with no scrambling in between or is some okay? Nelson's book has enough of these to keep you busy all summer.