John Frieh
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Anybody who wants to climb (sport, trad, drytool) any day this week give me a shout! I'd like to keep the streak going so call me up! John 541-231-2062 -
Got it! This website rocks!
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Navigator Wall pics/condition comments? TIA
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Sherpa is still in as of yesterday. Make it a point to scope the descent before you actually do it but in a nutshell after the shrund crossing go skiers left until able to skirt underneath some dry glacier aiming for some scree. On the other side of the scree head straight down a snow couloir... snow almost all the way and you avoid a rap. N ridge info: lots of snow still on upper ridge; the slab with crack pitch still had snow on it as well as the gendarme. I might be able to post some pics later today.
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Sorry man... I will be climbing on Stuart Sunday - Wednesday morning and then leave for Idaho Wednesday night . Maybe next week? -
Perch has the highest concentration of longer routes but the route in question is a ridge so it is longer. I should have more info later...
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Finger, Arrowhead, Perch (gotta climb all the routes!), Warbonnet, others... Rumor has it there is a 18 pitch 5.11 V near redfish lake that is suppose to be as good (or better ) as the B/C in the bugs. 12 of the pitches are either 5.9 or 5.10 Sounds like the N ridge of stuart on roids Still looking for carpoolers!
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Prairie Fairy Fern Feeler Dirt worshipper
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Yup. If you are coming down from WA and want to meet some where on I-84 (the Dalles, etc) that is totally cool with me...
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Your choice... though you might get your ass kicked in Stanley if you rock one to the local watering hole.
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Word. 2nd pitch of Zebra is another nod for 10a. Both pitches of Peking are benchmark 5.8. 11a Lions Chair, Zebra Direct 11b Wartley's Revenge 11c Strawberry Blonde
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Leaving PDX on the evening of Jun 22nd for the Sawtooths… back in PDX some time the 26th. Individuals interested in carpooling drop me a line. At this point we are not looking for extra partners (though this might change)… i.e. bring your own rack, rope, partner, etc.
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Freneys are too hot in the summer for me too unless I head to higher altitudes. With that said I still love them in the winter (I have a pair of the original blue ones). Maybe I am reading this wrong but I would think you would be wearing rock shoes if you were climbing hard alpine rock routes... correct me if I am wrong here... If you are shopping for only a summer boot consider something in the 2 lb/sub 2 lb range... La Sportiva and Garmont come to mind. If you are shopping for something for a leather for year round use (and can only have one pair) get something insulated (similar to what you are already looking at) but understand your boots will get soaked in the summer from foot sweat. Finally consider looking at boots from Kayland... they make a few models that fit your criteria (and their boots are sick!).
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Anybody want to drytool Thursday and/or Friday? Forecast is calling for rain next few days so dting might be the only option... I have extra ice tools, pons, helmets (w/ face shield)... all you need is boots and some interest! Call me: 541-231-2062 -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Lani and I will be at/around the silver bullet wall around 3:30ish-6/6:30ish. 541-231-2062 -
I've only been climbing there since 2003 but seems to be doing fine to me in my newbie opinion Short drive for some fun climbing in a beautiful location (plus you can stop at the big horse brewery on the way back ). Hope someone finds my shoe!
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Lost 1 green/white 5.10 Newton size 11 rock shoe. s if you find it! John 541-231-2062
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While you're backpedaling would mind explaining how you can "arrive" at a conclusion about someone that you have never even met? Or do you feel someone's online behavior on a CBB is a good judge of character? Bob's right... 1 day is plenty if you have your shit dialed. However we all remember how our first wall went... I think 2 days is a good plan. Have fun And one other gear item! A shit tube or wag bag (or both!)... The amount of rotting turds at the base of that route is disgusting.
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Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.
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Day 1: Fix pitches 1-3 with 2 60 m ropes tied together. 2 60 m ropes will easily span the distance. Rap the lines and return to the car. Day 1 rack: 2 full sets of stoppers; double set of cams up to 3". 2 1/2" cam hooks, 2 3/4" cam hooks. 1 1/2" angle, 1 #4 bugaboo. (pins are only if pins are missing from the route) 12 - 15 runners (including at least 2 tie offs). Hammer. 1 set of aiders per person (1 daisy per aider), 1 fifi per person, 1 set of ascenders for the team (you won't need 2 pairs until the second day). Day 2: Jug lines to top of fixed line. Climb route to top. Day 2 rack: medium to large trad rack to 3"s By climbing all the aid the first day you can then leave all your aid gear (hammer, pins, etc) at your car the second day and take a standard free climbing rack. This will save you weight and speed you up the wall quickly. If you can't lead solid 5.10 trad you shouldn't get on this route. Recommended presequites: - both aid routes on monkey face (ideally both in a day) - some link ups (in a day) that makes you practice swapping leads quickly... a few to consider: orbit/outerspace, west face/nw corner of NEWS, east face of lexington/SEWS SW rib (the 5.9 option), etc etc Breaking up the route over two days and not sleeping on the wall allows you to avoid hauling and being able to leave all your aid gear the second day. The make or break for this routes is being speedy... you can gain time by practicing a ton with you cam hooks, your jugs and cleaning gear (unless you want to leave some gear) before you go. Liberty Crack was my friend Brock's 3rd multi pitch climb he did great because he praticed all those things before he went.
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Goat at white rocks.
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Smith Free parking and no crowds all weekend!?!?!!! Ran into 4 cc.comers (2 of them are lurkers... you know who you are! ) and 2 old NOLS/REI buddies
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Flesh wound... Thanks for asking! I was pulling a Fred Beckey for a few days... "What!?!?!?! I can't hear you!"