John Frieh
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Sorry man... I will be climbing on Stuart Sunday - Wednesday morning and then leave for Idaho Wednesday night . Maybe next week? -
Perch has the highest concentration of longer routes but the route in question is a ridge so it is longer. I should have more info later...
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Finger, Arrowhead, Perch (gotta climb all the routes!), Warbonnet, others... Rumor has it there is a 18 pitch 5.11 V near redfish lake that is suppose to be as good (or better ) as the B/C in the bugs. 12 of the pitches are either 5.9 or 5.10 Sounds like the N ridge of stuart on roids Still looking for carpoolers!
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Prairie Fairy Fern Feeler Dirt worshipper
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Yup. If you are coming down from WA and want to meet some where on I-84 (the Dalles, etc) that is totally cool with me...
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Your choice... though you might get your ass kicked in Stanley if you rock one to the local watering hole.
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Word. 2nd pitch of Zebra is another nod for 10a. Both pitches of Peking are benchmark 5.8. 11a Lions Chair, Zebra Direct 11b Wartley's Revenge 11c Strawberry Blonde
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Leaving PDX on the evening of Jun 22nd for the Sawtooths… back in PDX some time the 26th. Individuals interested in carpooling drop me a line. At this point we are not looking for extra partners (though this might change)… i.e. bring your own rack, rope, partner, etc.
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Freneys are too hot in the summer for me too unless I head to higher altitudes. With that said I still love them in the winter (I have a pair of the original blue ones). Maybe I am reading this wrong but I would think you would be wearing rock shoes if you were climbing hard alpine rock routes... correct me if I am wrong here... If you are shopping for only a summer boot consider something in the 2 lb/sub 2 lb range... La Sportiva and Garmont come to mind. If you are shopping for something for a leather for year round use (and can only have one pair) get something insulated (similar to what you are already looking at) but understand your boots will get soaked in the summer from foot sweat. Finally consider looking at boots from Kayland... they make a few models that fit your criteria (and their boots are sick!).
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Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Anybody want to drytool Thursday and/or Friday? Forecast is calling for rain next few days so dting might be the only option... I have extra ice tools, pons, helmets (w/ face shield)... all you need is boots and some interest! Call me: 541-231-2062 -
Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night
John Frieh replied to John Frieh's topic in Climbing Partners
Lani and I will be at/around the silver bullet wall around 3:30ish-6/6:30ish. 541-231-2062 -
I've only been climbing there since 2003 but seems to be doing fine to me in my newbie opinion Short drive for some fun climbing in a beautiful location (plus you can stop at the big horse brewery on the way back ). Hope someone finds my shoe!
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Lost 1 green/white 5.10 Newton size 11 rock shoe. s if you find it! John 541-231-2062
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While you're backpedaling would mind explaining how you can "arrive" at a conclusion about someone that you have never even met? Or do you feel someone's online behavior on a CBB is a good judge of character? Bob's right... 1 day is plenty if you have your shit dialed. However we all remember how our first wall went... I think 2 days is a good plan. Have fun And one other gear item! A shit tube or wag bag (or both!)... The amount of rotting turds at the base of that route is disgusting.
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Ummm... how else do you propose to ascend the rope? Bite the rope with your mouth while you slide the other one up? 2 ascenders per person is standard.
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Day 1: Fix pitches 1-3 with 2 60 m ropes tied together. 2 60 m ropes will easily span the distance. Rap the lines and return to the car. Day 1 rack: 2 full sets of stoppers; double set of cams up to 3". 2 1/2" cam hooks, 2 3/4" cam hooks. 1 1/2" angle, 1 #4 bugaboo. (pins are only if pins are missing from the route) 12 - 15 runners (including at least 2 tie offs). Hammer. 1 set of aiders per person (1 daisy per aider), 1 fifi per person, 1 set of ascenders for the team (you won't need 2 pairs until the second day). Day 2: Jug lines to top of fixed line. Climb route to top. Day 2 rack: medium to large trad rack to 3"s By climbing all the aid the first day you can then leave all your aid gear (hammer, pins, etc) at your car the second day and take a standard free climbing rack. This will save you weight and speed you up the wall quickly. If you can't lead solid 5.10 trad you shouldn't get on this route. Recommended presequites: - both aid routes on monkey face (ideally both in a day) - some link ups (in a day) that makes you practice swapping leads quickly... a few to consider: orbit/outerspace, west face/nw corner of NEWS, east face of lexington/SEWS SW rib (the 5.9 option), etc etc Breaking up the route over two days and not sleeping on the wall allows you to avoid hauling and being able to leave all your aid gear the second day. The make or break for this routes is being speedy... you can gain time by practicing a ton with you cam hooks, your jugs and cleaning gear (unless you want to leave some gear) before you go. Liberty Crack was my friend Brock's 3rd multi pitch climb he did great because he praticed all those things before he went.
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Goat at white rocks.
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Smith Free parking and no crowds all weekend!?!?!!! Ran into 4 cc.comers (2 of them are lurkers... you know who you are! ) and 2 old NOLS/REI buddies
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Flesh wound... Thanks for asking! I was pulling a Fred Beckey for a few days... "What!?!?!?! I can't hear you!"
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Koflach Erc. Exp. - the best plastic boots? Hmm.
John Frieh replied to OlegV's topic in The Gear Critic
Oops... that is what I meant to say... can't keep my models straight The vertical is a fine boot. And my calves are fine... thanks for asking. They get weekly abuse at dry tool night...you should come out some time... -
Koflach Erc. Exp. - the best plastic boots? Hmm.
John Frieh replied to OlegV's topic in The Gear Critic
If the shoe fits... The vertical is a weird boot... though it is plastic the plastic they use is designed to flex... making them more comfortable to walk in. That is great and all until you actually use them to climb ice (the other reason to buy plastic boots)... your calfs will scream for mercy. Koflach specifically makes those boots for glacial plodding... if that is what you see your self pursuing then great... however if you hope to get into/continue hard ice, etc then you might want to look at some other boots. Two boots that fit my feet: Lowa Civetta is a solid preformer, fairly light and well priced. Scarpa Alpha is an awesome boot also. When my civettas wear out I am replacing them with a pair of alphas... All comes down to fit... -
Have all day Monday… Alpine with some one in shape would be my preference but beggars can’t be choosers… I will be climbing until late Sunday… once done (early evening) I can and will drive where ever… You've read my posts... now find out if your assumptions are true 541-231-2062
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My buddy has a Metolius one (not sure on the size... I guess only one of the three sizes are available currently)... he is really stoked on it. Gavin at Us Outdoor climbed on at least 2 of the 3 you listed... us outdoor advertises on this site so give him a call.
