John Frieh

Word up! FYI Second pitch anchor is missing a hanger also. You can sling it with a nut but...

If you expect me to sit here and type 18 pages of cliff notes for every single picnic lunch wall route you can off. No offense but I (and I would expect most people on this page) have better things to do with their time... like oh... say go climbing! If you have questions about specific routes say so and perhaps we can help you. As far as 5 easy pieces it is on the rightt side of the face (climbers)... five pitches of 12/13- (unless some hold broke) sport. Sweet route if you can send. Bubba's in Bondage is the best aid route IMO. Opinions vary greatly. Bring a good selection of hooks. The 4 pitch route that starts on Teddy Bear's picnic (I forget the name) is fine adventure climbing... the chimney, though it protects well, is disgusting. Not solid like Watts suggests. Are you looking for beta on free routes or aid routes?

The Roots! Best Live Band EVER!

Yum. Whole lot of choss up there... 5 easy pieces is a sweet route (not a lot of choss either).

Led Zepplin, Beatles, etc etc are nothing more than a bunch of black music thieves. Do your homework. One vote for madvillain.

Anybody want to climb tonight? Dry tool, rock, whatever. Call me in interested: 541-231-2062

I hope people make an effort to attend this. Meeting tonight (Wednesday 14th)... details at the bottom of the thread.

I am headed back up today... will take some more pics. Anybody for rock or dry tooling Thursday?

Doug's pics from Sunday: Hoodie N Face (Yes it is coming in for some fall action!) Camilo gets his first taste of ice The bitch wishing for some rock to drytool FYI: the ice lines Ivan named Triple C last year have started forming but with the recent weather will likely dissappear unless the freezing level drops this week. Still some nice fall WI should be coming in! If anyone goes up there could they report conditions in either this thread or perhaps start one in the ice climbing forum? Finally I am headed up there this weekend. If you are interested in going (either day) get a hold of me! ICE

PDX partner thread. Use this any time you are looking for a partner or a way to keep tabs on when the rest of us are meeting up. Hope to see you out there!

Please post info!

PM Oldmanrock.

Told you so! And yes they will take that bivy sack also d00d! All you CWU kids better be at Rope up for some under age ethanol research and cragging!

When you do plunk some cash down consider the petzl sarken, dart and dartwin are the same crampon in the rear (part under your heel) and vary only in the front piece. Additionally one can purchase just the front piece so instead of buying 3 pairs of crampons you just buy one and rotate the front pieces (assuming you climb a lot of different ice and mixed) or... don't have to buy a whole new crampon every time you wear out just the front points... Just a thought... if you'd like to test drive some pons before you spend some cash consider emailing Mike Palmer and encouraging him to hold the dry ice fest so you can try out some pons without having to drive to CO for an ice fest there!

Fuck yes! Ice on Sunday beeyotches! w000000t! Almost broke my head today at Rocky after both my heel spurs cut loose while hanging upside down... it was a gaper moment! Speaking of did anyone know the access fund was out at Rocky today cleaning up!?!?!?!?!?! I never heard anything about it... Doug: I will call you! YEEEEE HHHAAAAWWWW!

Once you own Kayland you won't go back. I loved my Scarpa Freneys until I got a pair of M11s. Holie shit they are sweet... made my Freney's feel like they were logging boots. Shouldn't this be in the gear critic thread? EDIT: If the shoe fits... wear it! All the boots in this thread are a possibility... try them all on and see what you like!

Someone buy these boots and make fruit boots out of them! Marcus D did so with a pair of his and he loves them!

I got an email from Mike Palmer... they are currently trying to decide if we are going to have it this year. I would encourage everyone who would like the opportunity to try out new tools from various companies in addition to watching and/or entering a drytool comp shoot Mike an email at info@cascadecrags.com and let him know you'd be stoked if cascade crags came through!

Which Alphas? Do they have the new liner or the old one?

Fruit boots! What size are the La Sportiva Trango Boots?

Thanks Matt! What I was looking for. So it joins LC at the top of pitch 2 (above the lip)?

Yes but even closer to TRL. It appeared to share the first pitch and then go straight up off the anchor... about 15' climber's left of the A3 crack. Does anybody have a topo or have a general verbal description?

So it looks like the weather is going to be shit this weekend. Anybody interested in crusing up to the Elliot and TRing some ice on Sat (and/or Sunday) in the rain? I am away from my phone on and off today and Friday but if you leave me a message (541-231-2062) I can return your call before Friday evening and give you a meeting time/place for Sat (or Sunday). Holla!

Post here for partners.

Sorry if I am outing someone's project here but what is the story with the sport route that continues straight up off the first anchor for thin red line? Looks like it joins up with Liberty Crack above the 3rd pitch... anybody know anything? Rating? Looks fun!