John Frieh

Anchor bolt or protection bolt? I tend to place bigger bolts at the anchor and/or crux.

check your email d00d!

The silvers are running Fishing here s

Many of the newer bladders have large enough openings... time for an upgrade! All the answers you seek (and many you didn't even think to ask) are answered here: Journal of Endurance CD Worth the 50 bucks! A few free websites I like that have a ton of free info: www.run100s.com www.ultrunr.com

What kind of ice? Glacial or water ice?

Yes and no. They don't market it as "contains electrolytes" like Gatorade does... however if you do your homework electrolytes (at least ones required for basic body functions) include sodium, potassium, chloride, and bicarbonate... extremely common elements/compounds. If you check the ingredients you'll find sodium, sodium chloride, and potassium chloride... all "electrolytes". If you are looking for electrolytes e-caps/hammer gel sells a number of supplements in pill form (race caps, cardio caps, etc etc) that are likely overkill for most alpine kids but if you are trying to repeat one of Croft's traverses or do the central pillar of swiss in a day car to car they might be a good idea. For me what I have found works best as keeping me moving is the perpetuem and sustained energy drink mixes... perpetuem is straight up carbs in a drink mix... it tastes and looks like paste dissolved in water (no sugar as sugar hinders preformance for endurance activities)... that shit will keep you cooking for hours on end. Related to that the hammer gel is one of the most viscous gels I have used... enough that you can easily dissolve it in water (recommended for people who hate gu taste or texture).

Closer to home a number of grow houses in Camas were busted yesterday.

Zorro face + bolts = Weak Hope you aren't bolting that thing d00d!

Nice! If someone was lucky enough they could find yours and mine and have a set!

I have 2 confirmed + you and me makes 4 so far. I'm down for whatever... 9/10- for lots of laps or 10+/11 for some goodness. We can talk gear tonight! I call dibs beeyotches! Hands off! 5:30ish!

Sounds like someone doesn't want to start their pre ice season work out Better start soon if you want to put those ergos to full use

I am likely wrong here but I thought Rope up was generally in Sept and Tuff Love Smith melee was in Oct. Am I getting my months mixed up? And what about Tuff love?

No but I'd expect some... After having some wicked cases of poison oak this summer I'm stoked to get out with just some bug bites.

Shop around (look at ultra marathon or endurance fuel websites) and you will find the stuff super cheap. I would recommend getting all the flavors (maybe doubles) in the single packets and seeing which ones you like before you commit to 27 shots of something you might not like. Also do browse e-caps site... they have a ton of free info for endurance athletes and some sick sick sick products (including supplements that promote red blood cell growth)! Their drink mix is good too!

You forgot to include how many pounds of pasteries you brought in the gear notes

yum yum!

I've never had one explode from pressure differences experienced at altitude... are you sure you didn't just smash/step on it? I have had this happen plenty of times... almost always with the power bar brand containers. A great fix is ordering GU from e-caps.com... its called hammer gel and the shit rocks! You can buy it by the bottle... 27 shots per bottle or something like that. Most websites that distribute it throw in a free flask that holds 6 shots. Just refill it before a trip and viola! no sticky gu packets in your pocket, no trash to worry about, no explosions, etc etc. And the more you buy (i.e. 4 bottles) the cheaper it is... if you do the math it comes out to like 70 cents a shot or something. Its the way to go!

So does the first pitch still feel like 5.10+? I heard from someone that the melting out of the glacier has resulted in it being a little harder... Great work guys!

Good times alpine cragging!

The plan is rock on Thursday... people start dragging in around 5:45. Bring a rope, harness, etc for top roping. Bill: name your price.

Which brand of fruit boots? Do you know the owner? I'm in the market and trying to get as much beta as possible...

Hey certain enthusiastic new gym owner Drytool bouldering night? Come on... just a few hours a week... what do you think?

I'll toss in a some used Petzel Spirits, an 11 year old cat and a pair of Lowe Footfangs to sweeten the deal if I have too. Throw in some chouinard gear and its a deal. Footfangs! Sweet! Now you don't have an excuse to skip out on drytool night

I honestly wanted to name him Emmy Lou but this was vetoed for some reason. He is mine/ours until we head back to AK where he will be staying with LCM's brother so no trading I guess. I should be able to do Thursday.