John Frieh

Arabian Googles? Perhaps an Arabian Death Mask?

Thanks for the update! Pics would be great!

Bump. Any updates?

Ketch: did you see any ice? Any of this?

Winter: I think Marcus has plans for you

HOLY FUCKING SHIT! The man IS watching! Orange bucket = Marcus D Red = the bitch gimp himself

To the top!

AFIVE was at Mist Falls not Crown. One bolt is available at the first anchor... other two are currently covered in ice. Save 2 13 cm screws for the anchor + one of your tools (or both) + the bolt and you should be cool. Anchor is almost exactly at 30 m off the deck in an obvious roll below a steeper step. Sketchy shrubs on top to rap off of. Bring lots of tat or walk the trail. The bush held my fat ass (175) today. You need 60 m ropes to reach the bolt anchor off the top. You need a ton of 10s and 13s cms to get up this in current conditions. Ainsworth is in! Likely the better choice over Crown Jewel right now

Crown Jewel 12/12: 13 cm is the magic size... you'll be lucky to place anything longer then that more than once on the route. Not sure how it will look after tonight with changing weather pattern. Gate is unlocked... PLEASE close the gate behind you going in and out and make it look like it is locked (but DON'T lock it). Get some

As of 12/9/05: Lots of Ice all over the Alpental backcountry. Hotline: needs another week Flow Reversal: It's in and primo 1 new line to the right of Flow Reversal needs to be done this weekend. Thanks to all for adding to this thread

Rime. Not WI. I forgot some of the lines on the cooper spur above the elliot (cookie crumble or whatever Ivan calls them) can be WI 5 (or harder). I've seen some spicy curtains before... You want WI watch for March Madness on I rock or start studying the black spider. Or drive North.

I rock. More like rime IV-V. Black Spider has IV-V depending on conditions.

Tip of the iceberg my friend... you're already looking at 3-4 months of math jokes *if* you stop now... keep this up and you're looking at a year... maybe longer of random spray on anything you post. Welcome to my world

Have you seen the screamers? Tiny!

Bump. Any updates?

Slack on your grad studies... in fact drag them out as long as you can without getting in trouble. It's a cruel harsh cold world that will never be able to match the amount of vacation you get a year in grad school (assuming you opt to lever your degree in the industry). Doing so will allow you more free time to date. Or climb. Or both. I should quit my job again

Until ChestBeater makes an appearance you're not in too deep Gary. If math truly makes you happy go find a girl who feels the same... with that said I would encourage you to be willing to compromise in life and question your passion in math... is it really worth turning away another potential form of life long love? I doubt it. I can't even count how many single nerdy fawkers I encounter on a daily basis at work that made the mistake in college (or before that) to put their work/profession on the same level as their social life. Almost all of them are single.

Perhaps king_of_freshies can provide some commentary on this posting milestone in his career

About time you canadians embraced the US measurement system

RuMR with a wig on.

After you master that you can start working on the advanced levitation style walking.

Up to an inch of slippage for the heel is fine. If you lace how I described it will feel like you are slipping more then an inch but what is happening *if* you make sure to lace your inner boot snug (don't go too tight or you will risk limiting circulation on the tops of your feet resulting in colder feet) is the liner will slip inside the shell slightly (i.e. it will move with your foot so your foot/heel is protected) so walking is comfortable but your heel isn't slipping more than an inch. More than inch is generally blister country unless you have leather callouses... One key word of advice: lace your boot tight when you get to the technical terrain. Treat this like double backing your harness... I've seen people forget to do so and basically pull their liner out of their shell leading technical terrain.

This website s

Don't lace the cuff tight (if not at all) when walking/hiking. A tight cuff is for locking the heel place in and supporting the calf on steep ice... not walking/hiking. Their is no real reason to tighten the laces above the cross over eyelet when walking. Always snug the liner though. What will help is mastering the "Frankenstein walk". It's easier to demonstrate in person that describe but the concept behind it is to swing your feet and hips so that your foot isn't flexing inside the boot. Basically you will walk like a duck... insides facing forward. I can show you sometime.

Sorry, but I'm already spoken for, but should I ever be turned out on my ear I'll post my availability. Just another old guy who was always naturally inclined to use his head to take down an obviously superior force... But can you breathe through your ears Joseph? Sign of a true master, this is