Blake

I have a mountainsmith phantom i got for $40 a couple years ago that is pretty great. About 2lbs and you can take the waist strap and top pocket off. Good for 2 or 3 day alpine trips as well.

doesn't apply to just orange ones.

probably sunday afternoon

from hwy20 the hike in is 13 miles of gentle downhill. 4hrs? from the trail to the bivy spot is 1.5hrs there wont be water anywhere near the summit. the glacier getting on to the buttress, and then back down to the bivy from goode-S/K Col will be very broken up. bivy spot to summit - 7hrs simuling the whole thing.

nice work. Onsite FA alpine .11+ (or even .11a) is pretty impressive. Where exactly is this place?

I think there's potential for more quality climbs up there too. E. Face of Skookum peak anyone? Rolf or Pete, can you describe how the river crossing went? The bridge sections had washed out last October.

good luck finding a line on Booker.

Aim for the tree in the top left of pic #1. This route was fun and should see more traffic.

Where are the state crags exactly?

There's a finger crack in there as well that beckey calls A1 or .10+ and it was the only option mentioned in the older edition of the CAG. (apparently before it had been freed because it was first just listed as A1)

felt stiffer than an index .9 to me, and WA pass is softer than index. Maybe i am just out of shape.

The third pitch of the SW Rib of SEWS (above the 5.8 Offwidth) has a few options and one of them is a finger crack above a black/licheny slab. It begins as a rightward layback, (the corner is only about 4") then goes to straight-in finger locks, and then you can move right and to a wider left-facing corner, or some wide stemming. It's on a light-colored vertical face. I'm trying to figure out which variation this is, and what it is rated. Does anyone know?

PM Healyj or Heallyj

Anyone know how old the Gunsight one is? It can;t be seen in the CAG photos. Perhaps the same rockfall incident that doomed the Skoog/Brill route?

tryin' to be artsy

Do you know if the sub-summit of SE mox that Erik Wolfe and Mike Layton's 2005 route led toward is still unclimbed? Is Roy all done with his top 100 now? nice job, looks like a pretty great excursion.

make it so that Sent PMs are saved by default?

So was this Kearney? Anyone more info you want to spill on these unrecorded routes? P.S. it's the NE not NW peak.

NCSS?

I just can't see something liek this being the same grade as the SE corner at beacon rock, something ivan solos multiple times in tennis shoes after work while high as a kite. (sorry ivan!)

Dru and Pete, just for an example Nelson calls the West Face of Gunsite a grade III or IV and it was just 5 pitches for us, none of which were over 50m.

Post deleted by Blake

So I was told that one of the northen face routes on Forbidden as a great climb with an ice start (1 or 2 pitches) and then good rock (cracks and chickenheads) that lead eventually directly to the summit. Would this be the NW face, or NW face of the North Ridge?

He went up the Mary Greene glacier to the NE Ridge, the true summit, then traversed to the West Summit, then headed onward to the SW Summit. Other than the Main->West Summits traverse (which we did in opposite directions) we were on different routes entirely. As far as I can tell, our route was a new one all the way from Dark Peak to the West Summit of Bonanza. I'm still trying to figure out how the whole "climb grade" system works as well, but it would be a grade V if the start of the route is the base of the Dark Glacier (where we roped up from and began climbing in my opinion) and a grade IV if you consider the route beginning at Dark Peak summit.

totally gone as of 2 weeks ago. From the summit looking down it was tough to imagine the route even being there. From the fairly high snow levels this spring, things have melted out super fast all over the place.