Blake

Did you buy them at REI? As long as you are going to permanently seal on the cracked housing (rather than need to take it on and off) you could easily use Seam Grip or Aquasal (slightly thicker) to bond the pieces together.

When forced to stay in a hotel, make use of the complimentary stove.

I had never heard of Harrison before, and after googling it I noticed your exact post copied on other forums. I don't think it really matters man! Just enjoy your time climbing. You don't need to constantly remind everyone that you climb 5.12, warm up on 5.10, have immediate plans to solo the North Face of Mt. Hardcore etc etc. It's great that you are an excited young climber, and it sounds like you are very talented, but you might find it difficult to have good/consistent/experienced partners if every single inane discussion comes back to how you can climb 5.12, and when you don't make it up easier climbs, they are sandbagged.

the parking/road etc improvements on the new lot have not been constructed.

Hey Jordop, what were your thoughts on the differences between the Reverend and Rapid Transit?

Does anyone have experience with G3 line of skis for general backcountry and some inbounds use? I might have the chance to pick up a pair at a low price, and I'm currently skiing on some 10-yr old Tua Mitos that are too big for me. It'd be on a Randonee setup, and I am not a super-aggressive skier. Thanks! P.S. cc.com search said "G3" was too short of a term to search for.

Careful on this one Blake. If you don't have a long enough draw on the piece that is attached to the rope and your gear loop (assuming that is where you clip it), you can blow up your gear loop in a fall and lose the stuff you may need to finish the climb safely. I think I must be explaining it poorly Coley. If you fell before putting in this piece, having it clipped to the rope and your harness wouldn't do anything or make the fall unusual at all. When you place the piece, it is automatically connected to the rope, not your harness. The idea is that placing a piece becomes a fast one-move occurrence. On Multi-Rap Descents where your middle is not marked, grabbing some climbing tape, or even a band-aid from your first aid kit will both work for marking the middle and will remain in place a lot longer than you'd guess.

But why is the Mule-Wrangler wearing shin guards? Article

This is awesome... Someone created a tournament style bracket and then ranked all of the items on Thai Tom's menu. I've always thought that they have about 5 items that seem to be almost the same thing, but who cares, it tastes delicious! Original Link

On Multi-rap descents, after each rappel thread the end of the rope that you'll be pulling through the next anchor before you start to pull it. Stop when you get to the 1/2way point, and away you go. On hard trad, when you need to climb fast through a section (tips layback, etc) figure out what cam you will need through the crux. Below this point, clip the piece to the rope, and to your harness. When you are flailing to hang on, you can just un-clip it from your harness, plug it in, and keep climbing.

Climb the 2 routes routes on the right at "The Cirque" they are fun and a few weeks ago Kurt Hicks and I removed the "for decoration only" death-pin! Nobody is ever on them, but they are certainly above-average for Mt. Erie.

Who has got some great little tips for climbing (any aspect) that aren't necessarily common knowledge or found in many guides? I'll start with a couple. When fording a river on approach/deproach: After you cross the stream, make sure your feet are as dry as possible before re-socking and re-booting. I usually end up using the high-up ankle part of my socks to thoroughly dry my whole feet quickly. This way you aren't putting a wet-sock back into your shoe. Nothing will ruin a long trip faster than getting screwed up feet on your first day. When TRing a climb, especially with someone who is new or not fast at clipping themselves to the anchors and setting up a rappel: When you lead the pitch, temporarily clip straight to the chains with a daisy. Untie, thread through the bottom rings, and re-tie. Then clip a couple QDs or lockers to the bolts. Clip your rope through these carabiners (yours) and have you partner lower you off. This way you can TR with the rope rubbing/tensioning over your own equipment, but still connected to the chains. When the 2nd climber reaches the top, they can just remove the QDs and lower off.

In lieu of the current weather forecast, we NEED to stop this discussion. Rainy Day Blues

I think Caboose, hand jive, and centerfold are also solid at the grade. Claim Jumper seemed hard for 5.11, but it seemed rather sequency and evidently has been given a tougher rating in previous guides. That little crag that hosts Perfidious Albion (Black Zawn??) had a few stout, uncrowded lines. I honestly think that the Apron and smoke bluffs just both have such friendly, low angle, non-commited atmospheres that it makes the whole experience seem 'soft' at times.

If you have the ability to make these crags dry and climbable this week, then I definitely want to climb with you.

Economic ignorance displayed in moderately-serious discussions is disconcerting. Japan is America's #1 creditor (IE holder of our foreign debt). China is #2 and the UK is #3. Where did this Saudi Arabia nonsense come from?

It's a good skill to take to some place like the north ridge of stuart, where there is lots of 4th and low 5th terrain with good rock and ample pro. Most will belay maybe 4 pitches, and then climb the rest simultaneously.

It might be an unpleasant reality to face, but everything from cars to jackets and tech support will all continue to be produced wherever it can be done most efficiently. You can't effectively outsource your dentistry, car repairs, or child care. However, easier communication and transportation will continue to allow greater integration of the global economy (ie outsourcing).

I agree that having people in another country make my jacket doesn't bother me. Furthermore, if that inherently bothers you, why? How close (geographically) must someone live to your present location in order for it to be ok? From the pictures and write-ups I have seen, the computer technology and skill behind these workers is world class, and no better or worse than if these garments were made in the US, UK, etc. [speculation] Regarding the increased fuel costs to ship across the ocean: I'd be willing to wager that the average Chinese sewer/designer/etc produces fewer CO2 emissions in his/her commute than would the average US worker. I would further expect that even the additional (trans-pacific) transport emissions are not enough additional pollution to offset the reduction in commute emissions. IE the average jacket made in China and shipped across the pond is still responsible for fewer overall C02 emissions than the same jacket produced domestically. [/speculation]

It was responsible for lots of crap all over Millenium Falcon, Rutageba, etc last year. Evidently there have been some issues as well with other route development higher up, bumping into a new route that follow more natural/(quality?) line. The guy spearheading the project seems friendly and courteous. Something that seemed rather odd to me was in the discussion of the route it states "Pitch 4 - This pitch starts with a large and very helpful tree that provides a route up what would otherwise be a section that is stiffer than the climb is supposed to be." I think any climb is "supposed to be" as difficult as it takes to climb up the rock. Otherwise you are engineering a climb/route to fit a predetermined level of difficulty. If you only climb 5.7, is climbing to the top of the Chief on a 10+ pitch route really on your tick-list? Perhaps it is, but I'd guess that most folks with their sights set that high probably have technical abilities that will make this route seem like a mundane or pedestrian dirty jungle.

Other than turning around and trying to sell all these garments (which seems like a sure-fire way to get caught), would there be any other value or reason that they took them? It seems stupid to rob FF gear from the one and only place where it is made and sold, with the plan being to re-sell it elsewhere for profit. Perhaps this stupidity goes hand-in-hand with theft? You might consider posting something on various climbing, backpacking, skiing, hiking forums. If there is an attempt made to turn around and sell this stuff, perhaps one of the forums users will notice it and contact you guys.

What about going Maude->7fJ->Fernow->Copper? The Entiat TRaverse?? Hit up all those 9,000'+ Peaks. I'm not talking about Josh Kaplan climbing 3 in 24 hours, but about a summit ridge trvaerse. Has it been done?

Waddington TRaverse Neskawatch Spires??

Anyone want to carpool to Skaha for some sport clippage on Saturday and Sunday? Weather looks nice and sunny.

tradclimbguy, where's the party on/near Millenium Falcon?