Blake

On Multi-rap descents, after each rappel thread the end of the rope that you'll be pulling through the next anchor before you start to pull it. Stop when you get to the 1/2way point, and away you go. On hard trad, when you need to climb fast through a section (tips layback, etc) figure out what cam you will need through the crux. Below this point, clip the piece to the rope, and to your harness. When you are flailing to hang on, you can just un-clip it from your harness, plug it in, and keep climbing.

Climb the 2 routes routes on the right at "The Cirque" they are fun and a few weeks ago Kurt Hicks and I removed the "for decoration only" death-pin! Nobody is ever on them, but they are certainly above-average for Mt. Erie.

Who has got some great little tips for climbing (any aspect) that aren't necessarily common knowledge or found in many guides? I'll start with a couple. When fording a river on approach/deproach: After you cross the stream, make sure your feet are as dry as possible before re-socking and re-booting. I usually end up using the high-up ankle part of my socks to thoroughly dry my whole feet quickly. This way you aren't putting a wet-sock back into your shoe. Nothing will ruin a long trip faster than getting screwed up feet on your first day. When TRing a climb, especially with someone who is new or not fast at clipping themselves to the anchors and setting up a rappel: When you lead the pitch, temporarily clip straight to the chains with a daisy. Untie, thread through the bottom rings, and re-tie. Then clip a couple QDs or lockers to the bolts. Clip your rope through these carabiners (yours) and have you partner lower you off. This way you can TR with the rope rubbing/tensioning over your own equipment, but still connected to the chains. When the 2nd climber reaches the top, they can just remove the QDs and lower off.

In lieu of the current weather forecast, we NEED to stop this discussion. Rainy Day Blues

I think Caboose, hand jive, and centerfold are also solid at the grade. Claim Jumper seemed hard for 5.11, but it seemed rather sequency and evidently has been given a tougher rating in previous guides. That little crag that hosts Perfidious Albion (Black Zawn??) had a few stout, uncrowded lines. I honestly think that the Apron and smoke bluffs just both have such friendly, low angle, non-commited atmospheres that it makes the whole experience seem 'soft' at times.

If you have the ability to make these crags dry and climbable this week, then I definitely want to climb with you.

Economic ignorance displayed in moderately-serious discussions is disconcerting. Japan is America's #1 creditor (IE holder of our foreign debt). China is #2 and the UK is #3. Where did this Saudi Arabia nonsense come from?

It's a good skill to take to some place like the north ridge of stuart, where there is lots of 4th and low 5th terrain with good rock and ample pro. Most will belay maybe 4 pitches, and then climb the rest simultaneously.

It might be an unpleasant reality to face, but everything from cars to jackets and tech support will all continue to be produced wherever it can be done most efficiently. You can't effectively outsource your dentistry, car repairs, or child care. However, easier communication and transportation will continue to allow greater integration of the global economy (ie outsourcing).

I agree that having people in another country make my jacket doesn't bother me. Furthermore, if that inherently bothers you, why? How close (geographically) must someone live to your present location in order for it to be ok? From the pictures and write-ups I have seen, the computer technology and skill behind these workers is world class, and no better or worse than if these garments were made in the US, UK, etc. [speculation] Regarding the increased fuel costs to ship across the ocean: I'd be willing to wager that the average Chinese sewer/designer/etc produces fewer CO2 emissions in his/her commute than would the average US worker. I would further expect that even the additional (trans-pacific) transport emissions are not enough additional pollution to offset the reduction in commute emissions. IE the average jacket made in China and shipped across the pond is still responsible for fewer overall C02 emissions than the same jacket produced domestically. [/speculation]

It was responsible for lots of crap all over Millenium Falcon, Rutageba, etc last year. Evidently there have been some issues as well with other route development higher up, bumping into a new route that follow more natural/(quality?) line. The guy spearheading the project seems friendly and courteous. Something that seemed rather odd to me was in the discussion of the route it states "Pitch 4 - This pitch starts with a large and very helpful tree that provides a route up what would otherwise be a section that is stiffer than the climb is supposed to be." I think any climb is "supposed to be" as difficult as it takes to climb up the rock. Otherwise you are engineering a climb/route to fit a predetermined level of difficulty. If you only climb 5.7, is climbing to the top of the Chief on a 10+ pitch route really on your tick-list? Perhaps it is, but I'd guess that most folks with their sights set that high probably have technical abilities that will make this route seem like a mundane or pedestrian dirty jungle.

For the SKaha book I will bid $5 or two grilled cheese sandwiches, or more beer than previously bid. Seriously, I'd be glad to pay if Kat is not super interested.

Other than turning around and trying to sell all these garments (which seems like a sure-fire way to get caught), would there be any other value or reason that they took them? It seems stupid to rob FF gear from the one and only place where it is made and sold, with the plan being to re-sell it elsewhere for profit. Perhaps this stupidity goes hand-in-hand with theft? You might consider posting something on various climbing, backpacking, skiing, hiking forums. If there is an attempt made to turn around and sell this stuff, perhaps one of the forums users will notice it and contact you guys.

What about going Maude->7fJ->Fernow->Copper? The Entiat TRaverse?? Hit up all those 9,000'+ Peaks. I'm not talking about Josh Kaplan climbing 3 in 24 hours, but about a summit ridge trvaerse. Has it been done?

Waddington TRaverse Neskawatch Spires??

Anyone want to carpool to Skaha for some sport clippage on Saturday and Sunday? Weather looks nice and sunny.

tradclimbguy, where's the party on/near Millenium Falcon?

Using a combination of the above advise (thanks Gary, others....) I got my pics and music off my computer. I'm just going to re-format my HD now and run Linux, instead of Windows. Anyone have a favorite/suggested linux that they run? Any tips for a first-timer>? Thanks!

Where's Waldo? Who can spot the most climbers? I found 7. http://research.microsoft.com/ivm/HDView/HDGigapixel.htm

How is the trigger different than aliens? It looks the same.

I honestly don't think they are very hot. It seems like your average hollywood moviestar woman is much more attractive than these 'top models'.

I don't know how to build computers, I just want to save the pics and music on my Hard drive, and then reformat it. The HD itself is not corrupt or damaged, so this shouldn't seem to be a huge issue, but it seems to be...

Why do they always tie in through a locking carabiner in ads and promos? Seems like common sense would tell even a non-climber that tying your rope to your harness is the simplest and safest way.

I had windows XP on my laptop, but after someone corrupting part of it, I could not boot into windows. I didn't have my original CD, but borrowed a windows 2000 Pro CD from a room mate, and loaded that onto my computer. However, when I boot into windows 2000, I am unable to access my keyboard or touchpad to move the cursor. I think this might be because windows 2000 is not recognizing the pre-installed driver for these device, and therefor is not communicating with them. Does this sound possible? If so, is there any way to install drivers if the keys and mousepad appear inoperable? At this point I just want to save the photos and music off my hard drive ~(4gigs or so, either onto a CD or Flash drive) and then re-format the whole hard drive and use Linux. Thanks a lot for any help! For some background, my computer is a Dell Inspiron 600m laptop. I know my keyboard itself is still functioning, because the arrows/"enter"/F? keys all work during setup. Please don't reply with something useless like "Use a mac" or whatever...

I think there has been a Metolius 4CU somewhere off to the left near the flake on Godzilla. Maybe Orange or Red size. I remember seeing every time I has climbed that pitch. Is there still a fixed DMM nut low-down on the 3rd pitch of NAD at Index? Sol got it stuck there a couple years ago and it was there last June.