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Everything posted by Blake
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There seems to be a this belief that the pickets are somehow inherently different from the other parts of the range, and I think this is mistaken. The same shoes that work on steep heather, talus, snow, rock, and dirt elsewhere will work there. Ditto with other gear, except more food/fuel requirements perhaps make weight savigns elsewhere more important. Some folks feel that they need stiffer/heavier shoes to handle packs with food for 3+ days. Personally this has not been an issue. (maybe I have freakishly fat kankles?) However, once you are climbing technical rock, I think there's a huge benefit to having boots/shoes in your pack that are as light as possible. My personal preference would be similar to Mike Layton's... some kind of tennis shoe or trail runner with strap-on crampons. I've had no problem on snow and moderatley steep glacial ice (short steps.) I like these quite a bit.. they are the high op version of Montrail's "Hardrock" trail-running shoe. Montrail Namche
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one 60m is fine, use you middle mark. one 60m also gets you off pincely ambitions if you swing rappeler's left and downclimb some class 3.
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hey Wayne Ccheck your PMs for tomorrow, I know someone who is looking...
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If you are just go rock cragging, your rope wont be getting wet anyway so why pay more fore a useless feature?
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1.Daisy Chain 2. 3. Air Dry
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nobody touches the british (HB, DMM) when it comes to splendid nuttery and fiddly little gear.
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it turned into a wet foggy mess at about 6:30....just in time for the lovely top-out pitch... toher than that... bitchin day up there. [we were the other party] - i couldn't believe there wasn't a line of folks up there either. looked like you guys were having a good day out - nice send! Cool, thanks. I would have taken some photos of you if I had known. Were you wearing the black shirt, or the other guy? Did you do Town Crier AND Green Dragon yesterday? Either way, it was fun chatting with you and having the whole place to ourselves up there! Allison swears that the 5.9 and .10a (p1,2) are the hardest part of DH/LA.
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Sunday was low 60s and partly sunny at Index, ideal climbing conditions.... couldn't believe we were one of 2 parties on the UTW and there was a total of TWO cars in the parking lot at 5pm.
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yeah, it's the east side of the twin sisters. That pic popped up on my screeen-saver and i couldn't figure out where it was at first cause it just looks like such a dry desert. That little valley is rad, such a North Cascades anomaly. Plus, the bouldering scene is so hot there right now!
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To Rap off the UTW with a 60: Rap Golden Road (BLUE), which is an all-bolted route just (climber's) right of Heaven's Gate, and which runs down the arete on the left side of the chasm/chimney thing. Getting to the first station requires one very short diagonal rap (rightward) from the top of Heaven's gate. From that point downward all pitches are basically 25 vertical meters, so a 60m rope is super fast and easy. Each station has beefy new stainless steel 1/2" bolts, and none is truly 'hanging'. I doubt the walkoff could be much faster, and this way you don't need shoes.
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Watch out for angry germans with a marmot on a leash. I'll make you a white russian if you try the rope wash before leaving for RR. Th dude abides...
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What state? Climbing Area? Canyon/mountain? ...Route?
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Weather looks dry and sunny for the weekend, might be considerate to stick to the routes without free climbers.
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#6 poses no logical contradiction.
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I think it's a good idea Wayne. Any ideas about how it can be set up?
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I climb significant boulders
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17 pitches of granite goodness. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696594#Post696594
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You guys are talking about two different Sawtooth areas in two different states. Scottgg: I've done a few routes up there, and I wouldn't say that anything out of the ordinary is particularly necessary.
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Even if it IS public/searchable info, it seems reasonable to take down the name/address/phone# of FB (or anyone else for that matter) at the request of those who run the site. Maybe just PM the original poster and get rid of the links/info?
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It has snowed in Bellingham the last three mornings.
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I have not done any skiing around Stevens Pass, but I am interested in a short tour from Hwy 2 for Saturday. Based on probable conditions, it would be nice to avoid anything especially avy-prone. Does anyone have a suggestion for a favorite loop or up-and-back tour? THANKS!
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I've only heard good things about the Cilogear from others who have used them under fairly intense conditions. This one got used for 75 days in Packistan and came through unscathed, excluding one small rub hole, easily fixed with a dab of Seam Grip. http://picasaweb.google.com/cilogear/KellyCordes45LDyneemaWorkSack
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ditto.. maybe a SLC pub club during summer OR?
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Can you tell us your story of NR Stuart in Winter?
