Blake

Don't believe the hype, top 15' of corner, and most of the roof traverse are seeping and considerably slimey. All else was dry.

Great climb guys. I really liked reading the report Paul! As far as hardest peaks to reach by any route: East summit of SE mox peak has not been climbed by any party. It's got to be a contender. I'd consider Agnes peak to be high up there as well. I *think* NE Gunsight requires 5.10 climbing from any direction + glacier travel and 2 day approach. There could be potential for some easier route from the East or something. Also, some of the spires/needles that were done by Doorish north of WA pass. (Lynx, etc)

I've got the Select guide and I live near I-5 in B-ham. I am always happy to loan it out to anyone.

Nice job, that route is superb. I agree that p2 is the most strenuous one. From the belay atop p2, the original way goes up to the roof, and underclings rightward, then up and back left. It's easier than it looks. Info for all the rapping or walk-off options on the UTW with a 60 or 70m Rope: CLICK ME

Trip: Twin Sisters - Various Date: 6/24/2008 Trip Report: On the solstice a trio of B-hammers set out to do do a tour of the Twin Sisters peaks. Pretty nice that we didn't have to go broke on fuel costs. The summits are only ~20 miles from the ocean! We went up a bit of the W ridge of the N twin in fog and clouds, then dropped down into the basin between the peaks. From there it was up the W ridge of the South Twin, down the NE ridge, and onto the glacier. As weather cleared a bit we figured out where we were before descending down the wrong side of the range, and got back on track. From the glacier we climbed up the North Twin Sister via the SE Ridge, then down the West ridge to our bikes. It was a really fun tour, very rambly and scrambly. We brought too much stuff and didn't end up needing any gear except for one short rappel across a schrund. One anonymous member of our party took the first wrong turn on his bike and ended up 12 miles in the wrong direction before some local homesteaders in Acme took pity on him and drove him back around to the car just in time for us to reach the Beer Shrine before it closed. Gear Notes: Mtn Bike

Like Clint, this climb is pretty badass. I had the chance to check this out yesterday morning with my friend David and it's fantastic. In the Squamish select guide it is listed as .11a (text) .11b (photo) and .11c (topo) Likewise, the original McLane guide lists only one pitch. Here's the straight scoop: The route follow the crack just left of the sun/shade line, as seen from Angel's Crest P1 (.11a) is a long slightly-overhanging hand crack. P2 (.11c) follows the hand and finger cracks to a face climbing crux just before the anchors. From here it's some easy 5th class to the summit. The route now can be approached via Angel's Crest by heading right on an obvious trail/ledge after the Acrophobes Towers. (~pitch 12) One could also climb the complete Angels Crest and easily get down to the chain anchors above the .11c pitch to lower down the entire line and climb back out. I think this would be totally worthwhile, even on TR, as a reward at the summit. The .11c crux cannot be aided, although the fall would be short/clean. A double set of cams to #2 camalot, plus one #3 and #4 is good. Bring an extra hand-sized if anything else.

To clarify the routefinding confusion, Burgundy and Paisano beta overload can be found here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=482449

Getting to Holden from Lucerne is bus-schedule dependent, which is boat-schedule dependent, so flying from Seattle might not get you there any sooner than driving to Chelan/Field's point and catching the boat. Bring your skis Wayne! I bet that the trail to Holden Lake will still be significantly snowy.

I'm heading from Bellingham to Index on Sunday for the day, and picking up a partner in Mt. Vernon on the way. If anyone else from b'Ham/Skagit is going, I'd love to carpool!

I thought both of these Darrinton routes (and the amazing setting amid waterfalls at the end of Squire Creek Valley) were outstanding. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/696594/fpart/1

Daisy chain it + Washing machine + Woolite will help somewhat, but its mostly just coconut oil.

Hey Jens, I have a friend who uses one of these with a gri-gri or when aid soloing. Works well, the plastic clip is light, and it should solve your problem! DMM "Belay Master"

Yes. send a PM to "DCramer" on this site to get word on finding a copy. It should keep you busy.

just send a "pm" to DCramer on this site.

That's what happens when you miss the obvious descent gully man... you end up in the wrong hemisphere and have to fight off parrots and aggressive penguins.

At one point there was a site available that showed precip amounts of the last 24-48hrs or something like that in Index. I think this site was associated with rental cabins in teh valley. I have been unable to locate it. However, last week I found some kind of offical precip record for Goldbar (can't remember which agency sponsored and ran the site) and now I can't find that site either. Anyone have links?

Looking for a ~1 pound bag. Must be down. Plan on using it with a belay jacket in the summer. Not interested in anything much more than 1 pound. Looks like either the Montbell UL Alpine Down Hugger #5 Western Mountaineering HiLite or Feathered Friends Vireo I think they are all probably top-notch, but couldn't find any reviews or experience with the first one. I'd appreciate hearing from users of these (or comparable) bags.

The First Ascent of Dome Peak was via Stehekin... can't be that bad right?

If you must have boots, throw some aluminum 'pons onto these things, and you'll be set for the walking, the scrambling, the snow-descending, and you wont have to carry other shoes along. I think it's cheaper lighter and faster than the other suggestions.

Nice work, those gendarme pitches look cold. Clearly someone was inspired by ewe.

Cool, but... what about N ridge of Stuart? I'm getting lighter boots now for a specific approach, but fully intend to do more technical routes where I'd like to save weight and need rock shoes for the technical part. Perhaps you are considering bringing/buying too much gear for these routes? I think the best idea is to use tennis shoes or trail runner type shoes for W. Ridge of Stuart. The approach (mostly on a trail), the climb is a few steppy pitches of mid-fifth, and the descent down the dusty trail of the cascadian couloir. This aspect of the mtn bakes in the sun all day and shouldn't hold unavoidable patches of significantly steep snow very late in the season. What reason would there be for any other kinda of extra/heavier footwear? I must be the only climber in the world who appreciated the cascadian couloir. Think about it... you can descend from a 9,000' mountain basically right down to a trail without any rappels, loose scrambling, bushwhacking, glaciers, streas etc... it's amazing! From the summit you can essentialy walk down a long skinny sand dune for an hour or two, and you are off "the mountain" and a few trail miles from your car. For the N. Ridge, most people take rock shoes as there are several 5.9 pitches. However, getting to and from the route again is easily done in tennis shoes and this will make your pack lighter and hence the climbing MUCH more fun than hauling boots along on your back. If climbing the North Ridge of Stuart from mid-summer onward, there is no need for snow and ice gear of any type, and you wont even have to set foot on snow. Although if you are planning on descending one of the north side glaciers, plan accordingly.

I had these ropes and used them for a long time on lots of long routes. They held up great, took falls like a champ, etc. I loved how durable they were and that they were officially certified for use as twins AND half ropes. (although I'd guess you can get away with using most setups like this). They tended to get kinked up a fair amount, but i think that is just a general issue with skinny cords.

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Sorry Blake didn't see you post this. Q? Why do you tie the knot in the skinny rope, instead of the fat rope just above the knot? Hey Michael, I don't think it matters if you tie the loop knot in the fat or skinny rope, as long as the knot is near where the ropes connect and doesn't jam in the anchors. Your method (having the loop knot in the fat rope, between the connection and the anchors) might be better. Another idea is to leave one of the tails extra long on your rope-connecting knot, tie a loop in this tail, and clip your 'biner through there. Either way you can be safe if the tag line is cut, or you can rap on the fatty single and unfurl your tag line as you descend. After the first climber raps, the second climber can situate the knot to prevent any jamming, and have the climber down below hold the rope in place to keep things clean. This is the best thread in a while, because it's actually a serious discussion about climbing that doesn't involve stupid arguments and insults. Proving that there can be some redeeming value in cc.com! We deserve a collective pat on the back or group hug.

Many (probably most of the good) pictures will have been taken by partners. However, the cutoff forehead and tilted horizon on the photo above marks it a dead giveaway for a "Blake Orginal."