olyclimber

Do you have a favorite pre-2013 Dan Helmstadter where the photos aren't showing up? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/profile/24033-danhelmstadter/?do=content&type=forums_topic&change_section=1 link one here...there are number to fix, so let me know if there is one i should fix sooner. I think around 2013 or so he switched to Flickr, so those ones are fine.

Done! Photos restored! Any memories here @danhelmstadter and @lunger ? If you haven't read this one and looked at the pictures yet, I recommend it.

Another TR saved thanks to images plucked from the Wayback Machine!

Another TR photo restore thanks to the Wayback machine!

With a little work I was able to get the images out of the Wayback Machine. I think Dan's account on that image hosting site is gone...and there are other TRs with images on that same hosting service with the same issue. Thanks @G-spotter for nominating this one, and @JasonG for the challenge. And of course.... @danhelmstadter for the TR!

No I didn’t order it. They just know.

It is very possible I'm reading too much into what Bob is saying. It just doesn't sit well with me when I think of the people I know that have passed while climbing, and to have someone pass judgement on them like that. and all the situations you list make total sense to me. But I also think there are other situations other than what you list.

Well Bob, good for you for providing data...but I don't see it backing up your 99% number. 7% falling rock, ice, or object. it doesn't classify it as "a bad decision"...just a bad outcome. it could be related to a bad decision, but could it not also be random. 4.3% illness. Is getting ill a bad decision? Under certain circumstances, it could be, but not all. 11.3% slip on snow or ice...it says nothing about a bad decision other than the outcome. It could be because of simple bad luck...a good climber tripping is not a "bad decision". People don't "decide to trip". 39.4% people "decided" to slip fall or slip on rock. Of course in all of these there are factors...factors that could be the result of a bad decision. Or they could just be a bit of bad luck. Those charts don't tell you that, however. So what you're saying is 99% of the time people make a mistake of deciding to get out of bed. yeah...you don't really have point in my book about 99% being bad decisions unless you're talking about leaving your home as a decision. And there are definitely some listed on that chart that fall under "bad decision". I just don't see that number being 99%. Inadequate equipment, not placing pro, placing pro in the wrong spot, exceeding abilities....now those are "bad decisions". I guess if by decision you mean "mistake"...like you consider tripping to be a decision...then I guess that works!

yes i'm just saying there is a continuum by which we judge how bad a decision is, and usually we only call it bad if an accident happens...at least on the less risky side of that continuum. sometimes getting out of bed in the morning seems like a bad idea. by painting it as black and white, he's making it seem like 99% of the people who get into accidents made terrible decisions, when many "bad" decisions are only bad if they don't work out for you. like climbing a mountain at all...its very rewarding experience if you're successful, good. but if you attempt and get hurt, what "an idiot, what did you risk it all you adrenaline freak"!, bad. This applies to the Tooth. This applies to some crazy new alpine 5.14. It depends who is in the armchair. Remember the comments we got from the world at large when the Hood climbers went missing? "Y" symbol??? of course there is the end of the continuum where its a just a terrible decision, even suicidal. but its a continuum...its not black and white. and where risks taken sit on that continuum often depend on a lot of information those judging from the armchair often do not have. so i think Bob could be a little less "judgey" about things. but i'm not going to ask him to be who he isn't, so there is that.

Are you going to back that up with some data that supports that statistic? Not that its super meaningful, since I guess you could say taking up a sport that has any risk at all was a "bad decision". More like it was a "decision"....99% of accidents are the direct result of a series of decisions. Bad or good? There is a huge continuum that you're not mentioning. But I guess we're talking about accidents, so from the armchair they are all "bad". And bad luck? Duh. What are we talking about again?

i bet all your action figures are cherry

Ryan didn't share any TRs here, but he did have a pretty good contribution to the Random Climbing Partners thread (best of cc.com):

Ryan's blog: http://akalpinist.blogspot.com/

A Go-Fundme page for Ryan's family. He survived by a young boy. https://www.gofundme.com/ryanandmilo The Ryan and Milo GoFundMe was originally developed to support: (1) Getting other alpinists with experience in the Mendenhalls up to assist with potential ground search, (2) Assist with defraying costs of privately funded heli hours for search, (3) Assist with Care/Life/College fund for Ryan's 2.5 year old son Milo in a worst case scenario.As of Tuesday March 13th, this GoFundMe was updated to reflect the loss of Ryan and Marc, with priorities reflecting the original intention of the Ryan and Milo campaign in worst case scenario. Ryan was as equally passionate about family and fatherhood as he was about alpinism. Funds from this campaign will now go to: (1) Assist family and friends with closure and costs related to Ryan's passing, (2) Assist with Care/Life/College fund for Ryan's 2.5 year old son Milo who will be missing his father and father's emotional and financial support intensely.Thank you for helping in whatever way you can. Your caring and contributions will truly make a difference in this difficult time.Thanks again for your support and encouragement. Samuel H Johnson - Seward, Alaska A Friend and Alpine Climbing Partner of Ryan JohnsonThese funds will go to support costs related to closure for the family (service/funeral) and to a financial trust to be used for costs related care and education of Milo, Ryan's 2.5 year old son in the absence of financial support from his father Ryan.The administration of this campaign will be transferred to Ruth Johnson, Milo's grandmother who is working with attorneys and an investor to establish funds for Milo's care.

Page three of this thread has Ryan @akicebum and marc @marc_leclerc sharing bad partner stories back to back. Ryan's are pretty good.

came across this paper when looking up this info: http://mountainsandminds.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Taylor-Mapping-Adventure.pdf I started to read it but I have to get to work. not sure what the point of it was, but seemed like it could be interesting (to someone who was looking for a distraction at least)

@Kurt_Fickeisen is that a relation to you making the AAC report?

Great pictures, thank you! Looks like a great time out in the hills.

1945 http://thirdstbooks.com/seattlehs/sbroindex45.html

I'm not sure if Bob last lived in Edmonds, WA and would be ~91 today. Looks like he passed in 1998.... https://www.ancientfaces.com/person/robert-k-byhre/82081192

That ad also helped buy a Seattle Mountain Rescue truck: http://www.seattlemountainrescue.org/ref/truck history 1996.pdf

Big Four did a number on Bob http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13196401801/Washington-Cascades-Big-Four-Mountain

fixed it! great TR @Bigtree