lancegranite

I climbed Givler's crack free solo during one of my "marathon days". 1. Smoke a bunch of dope. 2. Park car at bottom of canyon. 3. Solo as many pitches as you can, running up the Icicle river road in between climbs. 4. Hitch hike back down the road to your car, sweaty and crazy. 5. smoke a bunch more dope. 6. Go drink beer with TR at Uli's with Julie... Best effort: Mountaineers dome, Careno Corners, Regular Route upper pitches, Bruce's Boulder, Barney rubble, Roto wall, Givler's crack, R&D route...

So is Static Point. Should we chop those routes as well? Where is my crowbar at?.....

I worked on the WCP Ekuk beachgang between 1995 and 2001. Part of my job was a barge tankerman who sold gas and diesel to our company's fisherman, so I knew most of our fishermen by name. Who is your friend, or what was their boat's name? Ekuk has one full time resident, the winter watchman. There was a summer population of around 700 fishermen , cannnery workers and various shady types.

Blah blah blahblahblahblahblah. For the record: I am a bolter and I will let my routes grow grass instead of telling any of you clowns about a single move. Forget it.

No, I was up in Bristol Bay, at Ekuk. Our climbs were more of a step-cutting affair, but the climbing was really fun. A person could jump from pretty high into the soft sand that collects in spots.

But what a nice drive! When driving by the Money creek campground, take notice of the beautiful information kiosks and USFS signs my father built.

When I was working in Alaska, we made our own ice axes, then ascended numerous bluffs near our cannery. Dirt climbing tip: do not climb under your buddy, climb to the side.

This one was a favorite space saving design...

DFA, Ha! that is 45 seconds from my house... Compared to Seattle area crags, anywhere in Vegas is close! We can be at the second pullout in 20 minutes. Also,don't forget the Trader Joes on Buffalo and Washington.

Cracks? You might as well skip the cracks. Rarely do they feel or act like the real thing. Besides, they take up valuable real estate. Just get strong climbing on plastic and take your new strength to the real rock.

I have built 5 different walls, they only get as stale as you let them. With the long winters, a good steep wall is usually the best, as easy gets boring faster. You say you have 12' of wall? design a wall with 3 angles getting steeper the closer you get to the back corner of the garage. The best part of having a wall is having friends get together to build one. The more holds each person can contribute the better.

Even from 1200 miles away, my "snow sense" has been going off the charts...I have not felt this way in 10 years. Something big is afoot... If my out of control premonitions are correct, it's going to be a good year to quit your job in November.

"Selective Offensiveness" A good name for a route if I ever heard one...

Robbie Cappell, Stevens pass Look close, he stuck this 90 foot air into a hall closet.

Will makes a really good point, Another variation on his idea is to tie just one overhand and adjust it to the direction of pull. Then clip a locking biner into both halves, isolating the knot in the middle. Very fast to create and simple, using only one knot. This setup works best with skinny webbing.

I told my wife that if she divorced me, send my mail back, I'm going to Patigonia and not coming back.

Indeed.

shit weighs the same as sugar... at least that's what I've been told..

Sad that such a bold climb has been put out to stud as the second most popular top rope on Loggers Ledge. "That climb over there is Danny's Dreadful Di-rect, once the haadest,scariest, most mean trad climb in all of this Chelan county... Now he jus' gits greasy giving pony rides to college girls ovah here on vacation from the coast"....

I climbed Dan's dreadful direct in it's apparently very short-lived bolted version. It was pretty fun.

Allow me to once again invite your sorry moldy bad self to travel to the south west region of this fine country. It's sad to watch the PNW rock climber bloom, wither and die in the space of three months. This cycle of life reminds me of my days on the Alaskan tundra...

Summer?

I think P4 was pretty hard for me, I must have been scared! Have any of you rock stars climbed the variation?

The Wingman

God bless the internet.