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mtangeman last won the day on September 6 2018

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About mtangeman

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  1. Nice to see this beta all in one place. Plenty of time for a CC forum revival in quarantine.
  2. Trip: South Sister - Prouty Headwall Trip Date: 03/19/2020 Trip Report: Feeling grateful to have days like these right in my (new) backyard. I parked at Dutchman Flat, therefore having about 6 miles of pleasant road skinning to get to the usual Devil's Lake trailhead. The day started out cold and humid, but there were no winds and by the afternoon things felt like spring. I was able to skin to about 9000 feet (without ski crampons), traversing all manners of frozen mank along the way. Booting to the summit involved rime, a little blue ice, and icy hardpack that didn't even pretend like it would soften into corn. The summit was clear and beautiful, and a raven greeted me when I arrived. Wanting to avoid the ice I climbed up, I dropped into sheltered ENE facing slopes above the Prouty Headwall. Though it at times threatened to get icy, I was mostly skiing shallow, creamy, windbuffed pow. The standard lines through the headwall (that I had seen detailed elsewhere) were all out, with low tide and large rock bands. I couldn't see the exit, but a steep couloir directly below Hodge's Crest tempted me. I dropped in on the same soft snow as above, which soon became less and less edgeable. Below, I could see it transitioning to water ice and rock at the couloir's exit. Fortunately, a mellow ramp cut left at this time, dropping me perfectly onto the broad, powdery lower headwall. Hero turns ensued. I've been in Patagonia since December, so this was day 3 on skis for me this year and my legs were burning as I skied through the seasons from high alpine pow all the way down to a warm spring snowpack at Green Lake. I found the perfect spot to lay in the sun, doing my best not to think too much about the long, flat walk out. Back at the car a few hours later, I saw the first other humans I'd seen all day. Social isolation achieved. Gear Notes: someday I need to actually purchase ski crampons. Approach Notes: aerobic.
  3. Your favorite non-or-semi-technical long linkups?

    The Lake Chelan-Sawtooth Wilderness is probably up your alley. You can follow the crest for a long ways, nothing technical, but perfect airy scrambling/ridge running. Cheops, Martin, Switchback, Bigelow, Star, etc. all WA top 100 peaks along that crest. Theoretically could run the ridge all the way from Angels Staircase to War Creek Pass and then some. Dry air and lots of talus so you should feel right at home! You'd be held back without glacier skills in most of the core of the North Cascades.
  4. SethKL, yikes. I think I opted to just place a piece next to the pin instead of clipping it when I was up there this summer, glad to see that hesitancy was warranted but at least it's not in a critical spot regardless. Wonder how long some of the other fixed stuff is gonna last. Ahparker, nice work on the send!
  5. I was really hoping to make it out there this year. Maybe it can still happen. Thanks for the TR and stoke. Looks amazing!
  6. Yeah, I regret not running up Skookum but it's good incentive to get back out there soon!
  7. Trip: Twin Sisters Range - Green Creek (Lite) Circuit Trip Date: 08/28/2018 Trip Report: I've really only dabbled in the Twin Sisters area since moving to Bham for school a couple years ago, but what a surprisingly complex, interesting and under-appreciated resource it is, so close to town. The recently cleared air got me giddy, and after being unable to find a partner for any adventures further afield I set my sights closer to home. The Green Creek Circuit looked like a great way to familiarize myself with lesser-traveled corners of the range, and it was. Definitely gained a new appreciation for this area. I crossed the Middle Fork and began hiking the Elbow Lake trail in the deep blue, pre-dawn glow graciously accompanied by the feeling that some apex predator was eyeing me from the bushes which tends to happen while hiking solo in unfamiliar places. The "bushwack" into the cirque has apparently really cleaned up since previous TRs I've read; I've had harder times following trails to popular crags in Squamish. There's solid tread the whole way and the route is generously marked with blue reflective diamonds, perhaps excessively so, but it eased any worries I had about potentially having to hike this section in the dark. Some of the ancient cedars and firs in this area are really impressive. The Green Creek cirque is gorgeous. It wouldn't even be unreasonable for the highly motivated boulderer to haul some pads out here - there's some great looking boulders and lines. I couldn't have felt any further way from Bham or other familiar places up the Nooksack. Truly wild zone, that is until I had to pick up someone's pile of plastic food wrappers that were clearly too heavy to pack out. Seriously? I started up Green Creek Arete as the sun poked over Mt. Baker and began to fill the valley. Solid, clean rock, nice exposure, great scrambling. I haven't felt that relaxed and in tune with the mountains in a while. As I topped out, smoke began to fill the air and Kulshan was temporarily obscured - bleh. It slowly cleared, though, and crossing slabs and tarns en route to the Sisters Glacier was another unexpected scenic highlight of the trip. Easy travel, great views and lots of peaks ahead. The moat crossing to S Twin NE Ridge was easy, and the ridge was a lot shorter than I expected. On top around 10, I started to relax and slow my pace down with all the daylight still in front of me. As I scooted down the south face gullies, I was eyeing Skookum with a little apprehension. I didn't bring a rope, and the Jaws Tooth downclimb didn't sound very up my alley, so I was looking at climbing directly up to the Jaws Tooth notch and finishing up Skookum. It looked like a large moat to steep choss - which, in hindsight after climbing other things on this traverse, I'm sure it wasn't, but I also became more worried about sketchy looking conditions crossing the Hayden Col, Little Sister Col and dropping back on the glacier, and ended up passing Skookum by. I know I probably missed out on the best climbing of the whole outing, but that was my call in the moment. I'll be back. A common theme of the Sisters area appears to be things looking much steeper/chossier/more difficult than they really are from a distance. Despite being totally melted out, the Hayden Col was casual, so I scrambled over to a summit I thought to be Ribbon Point, but was actually the one just to the north of it. Either way, cool spot. The talus crossings weren't nearly as bad as I'd heard they might be without snow, though my bruised tailbone might think differently. Slower going, but reasonable. Not wanting to miss out on any more good climbing, I eyed up my line on Little Sister's NW face and settled on the rightmost of the two ribs on the left side of the face. Surprisingly good 5.4ish up and sometimes left of a little corner system, stepping left onto a beautiful, highly featured and varnished slab to bypass a small bulge, leading to class 3 up the rib to the summit. Stellar! selfies are hard with an slr! stoked on top of little sister route up little sister with the easy-ish access to green ck glacier marked I dropped my pack at the notch just above the Green Creek Glacier, sussed it out and found passage via a collapsed snow bridge. All around, the schrund was huge, and I decided to go with the devil I knew and hop across here, as opposed to traversing Little Sister and Cinderella and potentially not being able to get back down to the glacier. This I think was a good call, the normal col where people drop onto the glacier was severely melted out with a large looking moat. The hike down the glacier, into the valley and out was calm and tranquil. The smoke had fully cleared, I don't think I've ever had as good of a view of Lincoln and Colfax as this. Grassy benches without a trace of human travel, bright orange rock contrasting with Baker's white, and the jagged cirque and glacier at my back. 15 hours car to car, for what little peakbagging I actually accomplished I'd say this is a modest time that could be significantly improved with less lollygagging, summit naps, routefinding snafus and blueberry pit stops. But I like all those things. Gear Notes: axe and pons, sense of adventure Approach Notes: now equipped for the masses
  8. [TR] Mt Rainier - Kautz in a day 07/15/2018

    Nice work dude! Looks like you've been getting some good mileage up there this summer.
  9. Nice! Thanks, I was genuinely curious. Yeah, Steinbok is kind of like the backwoods-BC lovechild of El Cap and Snowpatch Spire, it looks like. Hard to believe the rock quality doesn't (allegedly) reflect that.
  10. Whoa! That's awesome. Nicely done.
  11. It's well worth the journey out there. Would be even better to bivy up high and spend a few days!
  12. Where's that final pitch go? My memory is foggy but I don't remember there being much more above... Great linkup guys! That's a yuge day out.
  13. Trip: Les Cornes - Springbok Arete Trip Date: 06/17/2018 Trip Report: I'm not the trip report type, as evidenced by the fact we went out there weeks ago, but the approach to Les Cornes and that whole group of peaks has changed a bit since Cascades Rock so wanted to give a heads up to anyone heading that way. Cattermole Timber and Chilliwack Natural Resources don't really go out that way so don't count on calling them as a way of getting current road beta. The road getting there is pretty much impassable at 12.1 miles - so plan on an extra ~3.7 miles of human powered travel each way. I don't see this changing anytime soon, as there's a couple back to back washouts, with the remaining roadbed being off-camber and partially blocked by small boulders. Mountain bikes or dirt bikes would be great. The final road (the turnoff at 15.1 miles in Blake's guide) is overgrown to the point that we second guessed ourselves when we turned onto it. Didn't really look like it was driveable any time in the last decade. But, it's marked by flagging at the entrance. It's also washed out beyond repair not long after the turnoff but the stream that did the deed is crossable on a good log. The route was stellar. We did the direct start and half the first pitch was under snow. Not sure the slung block belay at the end of the awkward 5.9 OW horizontal pitch was still there, but there is a fair bit of choss in that sector, I belayed at the start of the 10+ wide hands cracks above. The rappels are feasible with a 70m just by following Blake's double 60 rap beta in Cascades Rock and finding intermediate anchors on the longer raps. Some rope stretchers. Doing this in the dark may lead to shenanigans - the sunset was nice though. Ibex/Les Cornes/Chamois S T E I N B O K - would love to talk with someone who's climbed this name those peaks? Gear Notes: hefty - doubles tips to #4 (both 4's were placed on at least two pitches). 70m rope. Approach Notes: long.