Rad

Article on "yuppie 911" We've seen plenty of discussion on this topic in the past, yet phones and other devices are becoming more useful and more prevalent. Do you take a phone or other device into the backcountry? What have you used it for? My main question is: has this changed your decision-making? (e.g. no cell reception so better be more cautious vs good coverage so go for it).

why not let your rockstar son decide?

Failing to pay parking tickets is the gateway drug to more serious illegal activity, such as stealing ketchup from McDs, bivying in the Enchantments without an overnight permit, using the restroom at Starbucks without making a purchase, and returning REI gear that you've happily abused for years simply because you're hoping to get a new model for free.

The Nelson Select guides list some classics and the seasons when they are in the best condition. In addition, many wonderful routes have gone up since those came out. Blake compiled a nice list of some good unpublished routes here. Current conditions routes and way more info than you ever need can be found on cc.com.

When you get to the top of a v0 downclimb it instead of jumping off. Or if two V0s end at the same hold climb up one and then down the other. Or downclimb any and all holds to get to the start of another v0 and then do that one without touching the floor in between. Watch how other climbers do the routes you do. Any different sequences? If so, try them. Now watch the same climbers on the v1s. Try their sequences to see which ones will work for you. There are millions of other tips to keep from getting bored. Have fun.

If it rains on the West side you can usually head to the East side of the range and be ok. Another question is what kind of routes you want to do. A number of approaches are best when there is still plenty of snow cover. Others are better, and routes drier, once everything is dry. I suggest you rank your top choice routes and start to learn more about the best times of year to do them. Besides, plotting and planning can keep you motivated on the darkest, wettest winter days.

Had similar experience w/Trango Cinch. Nice to have the prussik backup.

BUMMER! Sounds like you need another opinion and another doc.

If memory serves, it goes 10b traverse, A0 bolt ladder, Split pillar, Sword, A0 bolt ladder, Perry's lieback, 10a wandering face, Sail Flake, Bellygood ledge.

or not

Of course there's technique reqd, but if you're strong you can get by with poor technique until you hit the harder grades. Same goes for everything but true slab climbing.

Cool. Time?

don't worry. most people who climb in the valley have humbling experiences at one point or another. mine was stumbling down the spires gully in the dark with no headlamp after a taxing climb on NE buttress of higher

Nicely said Tvash. What makes Touching the Void such a compelling story is not the accident or the what ifs, but the amazing force of will and determination and cunning to survive when the shit totally hits the fan. It is about digging deeper than you ever thought possible, going on when all seems lost, and then being willing to bare your soul in print for others to gawk over. Sure, see the movie, but definitely read the book. After you finish that go read the tale of the Endurance. THAT is harrowing beyond imagination and it plays out over more than a YEAR.

The guy who invented TNT funds the nobel peace prize.

If it gets too sketchy you can always rappel the cliff band...

Really cool. I'm confused though. The wall has a route but yours is new, right? How many pitches and how hard was each one? Does it end at the cave then? Great pics.

You should post a TR so that others won't think the line is unclimbed and repeat the cycle of choss. I'm curious to see photos even if you didn't like it.

Unless you're there midweek in winter there's likely to be a line of people. The first few pitches weave back and forth before you get to the dike, but it's pretty clear in the Yos Free Climbs book. Anyway, it's worth going back to do someday.

Mt WA has (or used to have) the highest recorded winds anywhere in the US (>200mph). It just takes seconds to freeze parts of yourself in those conditions, or even much milder conditions (50mph plus cold). Don't let the relatively low elevation fool you. People definitely die on that mtn when they make bad decisions.

Snake Dike is fun - easy runout climbing in a great setting. Both times I've done it we've been quite dehydrated by the time we got down and back to the river. I've also descended when the boards were down on the cables. It's pretty scary smooth up there. Put the cable over your leg and its weight increases your friction and makes it feel safer. I did a three day trip to the valley once that involved the approach to Snake Dike by moonlight the night we arrived, climb Snake Dike and back down to the valley the next day, short nap followed by cragging at the Church Bowl in the afternoon, snarf food in the Yos lodge cafeteria, then pre-dawn start to go up NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral the next day, finishing the last pitches by headlamp and having to crab crawl down the spires gully after headlamp batteries died in order to drive to the Bay Area for a job interview on Monday. Twas quite a weekend. It was my partner's first time in the valley! She did great. I've never done Steck Salathe, so I can't comment on training for it, but I was surprised to hear NE Buttress of Higher as a training route. It has lots of crack climbing but only one 'slot' and a chimney up high that's pretty easy. Very doable grade IV provided you don't get off route up high as we did.

Yep. Snow down to low elevations so be prepared for cold conditions if you go alpine.

There's a good concentration of bolted routes at Ozone if you can find it.

Great to see that spirit of exploration.

Lovely. Thanks for the TR. FYI, the annoying wide TR syndrome will go away if you insert returns after each picture. Also, the large boulder visible between the two lakes in your third photo has several excellent moderate (V1-V2ish) bouldering problems. Perhaps hardmen will find more lines.