dmuja

Middleschoolers, those precious little angels, Ive never heard one swear like a drunkin larry flint! EVER!

Right. Write right. Write "write" right. "wite", me and the philosopher Wittgenstein, can't spell for shit, and neither of us care.

Ya gotta learn on somethin and it may as well be a single pitch trad don't ya think? Great for schoolin on. I used to laugh at "bouldering" but more and more Im appreciating the challenge, artistery, and purity of it. I can even begin to see how one could get from there into that deep and strange realm free soloing if your locks were up to the task. Jus keep bouldering higher and higher..Ha!

Do I think its important for the world to take action on reducing greenhouse emissions? Absolutley. Do I think a 5% reduction in those emissions would be effective in the short term? Not noticeably. In the long term however, it wouldve been an important first step and statement to make. Still though, while much of the rest of the world is recognizing what we're up against, The US - one of the world's biggest generators of greenhouse gases – responsible for about 1/4 of the entire world’s anthroprogenic carbon dioxide emissions - only see's dollar signs and plays the "blame them" game. Im an optimist though. I think we could still pull this one out - but that would still require FIRST a clear recognition of the problem. As long as we still try to rationalize a "do nothing" approach, as long as we buy into this politacally motivated fantasy that there is a "global warming debate" - when in fact there really is no more debate about human enhanced global warming than there is about say, the factual basis for evolution - as long as this goes on without the leadership of the US, then that length of time will be a true factor in the equation of just how big the problem becomes. Denial and biased, over rationalization serves no one in the end and even the corporate conservatives will eventually feel the full effects of a world out of ballance. Those fony arguments and distractions aught to be steamrolled-over, terminated with extreme prejudice, and those who have not drank the coolaid should just get on with the real work of making a fix. Unfortunately many people still get distracted by this shit "it wouldn't make a bit of difference" etc.. Yeah, had we ratified it in 92, had we then gone on from there, had we NOT tried to manipulate the science, the scientists, the facts, had we not been more worried about energy company profits, then the kind of world our grand kids would inherit, had we been a leader in the solution instead of an obstacle, then yes it would have (and still would) make a difference. So please and by all means, vote next week. Sorry, didn't mean to right a campaign speech.

Well when the isothermic effects of "GW" finally do take hold in the world oceans and the oceanic currents stop and what we call "weather" as we know it ceases to be, we will then be able to predict the future fairly accurately and it will look something like this.. "FORECAST FOR THE UPCOMING PERIOD; VALID JAN THRU MAR 2023... The stationary high pressure system that has parked itself over the eastern pacific will continue to produce extreme heat for the western 2/3'ds of the country with high temps for the next 3 months expected to diviate less than 2 degrees from 115 deg F. Lows are expected to remain in the mid 90's for that time period. Please check back in 3 months for the updated forecast.. Thank You"

So WC dyneema 10mm starts out new at 22kn rating. If you keep it for a while, at 2 years it *may* lose aprox 33% of that according to some experience around here. Now we're down to 14.75kn. Girth hitching further reduces strength - *maybe* from 30 up to 50% according to some. The tighter and smaller the radius the greater the weakness - frm what I hear. Now your down to maybe about 7 to 10kn. If your second falls, could it generate (depending on your belay set up) a 7kn force on your (the learder/belayer) cows tail/daisy chain? It depends on the route and your belay set up etc, id think (guess) it might be so if there was slop in the system or some user error. BTW - my opin is that it might be better to keep the dyneema for intermediate pro (knot free) and use the beefier stuff for the belay anchor. I would NOT want my leader belaying me up while hanging off a single dyneema runner - with girth hithes and knots especially. I use the beefy PAS girthed to my beefy belay loop or use the rope. Those daisies with the weak tacked pockets should be taken off market imho.. but hey, free solo'rs get away with alot less than that. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/pas.htm

So 2 things I learned this week.. (1) Id better take serious the warnings Ive heard ever since I started climbing about replacing worn out gear.. (2) Id better take serious the warnings Ive heard ever since I started climbing about NOT girth hitching spectra or dyneema slings.. My understanding as of the moment is that "belay loops" in general are very strong - a stronger component of the safety system than most other parts - but this varies from brand to brand. I think people more often may 'over look' that particular component though because they "look so beefy" and are only a part of the harness - which may not get inspected for wear so much as dated for replacement based on time. I use my belay loop for belaying, self belaying, rapping, anchor hanginging, glacier roping, etc.. Maybe Im death waiting to happen? I might start throwing a sling backup thru the tie in points now as a back up just to see if the little fuss is worth the extra time but really if I stick to what I first learned about "worn gear" and "girth hitch weaknesses" Il probly be ok.. maybe Anyway our gut tells us to "change" or "adjust something" when we may have just gotten off track with some bad habits. Adjust in this case may mean getting back to basics.

oK, Thanks ye all for advice.. Short answer; I pulled plug - we went for plan B to Index and Vantage instead. It was, well,.. the imbarassment of a possible carry out from Ingalls lake, or a copter ride off of Stuart that dis-swaded me. Turns out the ankle got worse later on when (I tested it) hauling a pack and hiking. Climbing (for some strange reason) did not cause much pain. Anyway, with the mantra "Pain is weakness..You have trained for this...It will go.." oddly playing over and over again in my head, we tried to make the most of a bad situation and salvage something of a good weekend. My brother Mark below...> ooOOPS! WHy the hell do they put such a sucky setting on cameras anyway? quote.."Hay Doug, if you fukked up that shot with those fukin balooONs again, when I get to that belay you better be ready for an ass kickin, cuz Im gonna punch you in your brain with this hand, see it? with THIS HAND!" Despite the change in plans, we cant be frett'n with views like this..>

Had a trip planned for Ingalls and Stuart TOMORROW but I slightly sprained my ankle TODAY. Im just wunderin if its time for plan B or do I suck it up, lace up tight and "go for it" any way? Im serious, someone flew 2000 miles to do this with me. Any overnight remedies? If I try it, might I end up unable to walk out? Will it get worse the farther I go on it? Ok, stupid questions but Im bummed and a little dissappointed right now.. thnx D

f--k, sorry, didnt see the other threads till I posted! Still though, Ill leave the beta request up incase some one wants to adress each Q in particular.. thnx

this time 'o' year, Q: Best place to camp around or close to Ingalls North Peak SR?? Q: Is there snow (at what elevation?) on Stuart routes right now - particularly how is the cascadian coulior? Moderate Class 5 (.6-.7ish) route suggestions?? Q: night/day temps?? Q: *anything else helpful* ("descent" info for example) betawise on these 2 is appreciated.. I haven't done yet so even experienced guestimates are welcome. First visit to this area and seek easy to moderate stuff. Probly going over night though and may do both peaks tnx D

Sorry to break it to Chirp but last I heard, evolution for the human species is pretty much finished due to dilution of the gene pool, so this is as good as we get. Minx I don't think it was "flamable pajamas" (5.5) that he was on, I think it was a 5.7 to 5.9 (by xt38 standards). ---- Off Topic Oh, and on hypocrisy in general (sorry, but as long as we already have some thread drift); whats a bit ironic is that if some of the "bad ass" posters around here had witnessed this guy free soloing, and had he lived, he would likely be considered a bold "bad ass". But because he didn't live, now hes probly considered "stupid". I guess at least the measure then is an objective one..let see, the best climbers are "the ones who live" and the worst are "those who don't"... hmmm.. OR, Maybe he just read that one thread on the topic of "is free soloing safer than roped climbing" and got a bug up his butt to test that brilliant line of reasoning. Im just speculating.. One way or another the young man was bold in his final acts, and "boldness" gets played up on this board maybe too often as the one true great quality of a climber. Boldness is there, but it shouldnt be the only thing that gets praise. Theres something also to be said for smart (even sometimes cautious) decision making. Maybe that too is "badass". After all, "the one who lives is..." ---- I hope he didn't suffer and may he RIP (if there be such a state).. D

step aside homie G dogs mujas in the house! jus who da fuk is sampca well some kinda cracka got a grip on a 10b but wit a 2"inch tally wacka thinks he owns the SCW but the cc comers had a few thing to say to you boy he gotta ego and no matta where he go no matta wut he done he aint neva gonna be the one havin the most fun stay away from me samp fly we bored with you little guy cryin calimity behind dis anonimity all becuz you woke too late..bo-eey! doe no how to negotiate you stuck and cant navigate on a trade route weekend when the wetha was great then, we hear ya punk ass poutin and yo whiney assed shoutin but now the cc crew say you dont own the mountain..cuz--z think you the only one who ever been second in line behind a sketched out newb on a crowded ass climb you got no one to blame but yo sorry ass self so now its time to flame we gonna take it off the shelf! PS - please don't make me angry, you wont like me when Im angry

this just might be the greatest weekend wx for climbin EVER! EVER!! .. Youd all be nutz not to get out. just please don't come around norf of the pass cuz I dowanna meet the crowds

yr porbly right matt, I have long since dis-and-re assembled my draws to facilitate my "midget" 5'9" reach.. I know for sure doe that the bent gate is for da rope , I hope..

My "personal" set up.. dog bones (bolt climbs only) biners facing same dir.. gear biners (prefer dmm specters, helium, or bd keylocks) clipped on a sling, biner gates facing me.. runners for trad, singles, made of that thin skinny shit "dyneema" with a lone helium wire gate - I don't get why one needs to carry 2 biners on all yr runners if you already have one on your pro, maybe for stoppers tho b'cause you probly have them bunched up on one "carry" biner.. btw, the reason for the stiff side on the dogbones is so you can make a difficult long clip by "slapping" the q'draw into the hanger via grabbing the middle of the draw instead of the biner. Its easier to "slap" away from your body than to slap into yr body from the outside. Anyway, the siff side is not for the rope, its for the bolt hanger.. jmo

Maybe. But it sure beats chokin to death on a crispy cream donut IMHO Heres to ya Croc Hunter

I like this one---> Cold Cold World "Valdez" http://www.coldcoldworldpacks.com/valdez.htm Its pretty tough, low profile and the extendable main compartment makes one think it would even be possible to do an overnighter if you really go "minimalist". I like that you won't tag your pack with your helmet when looking skyward at a steep route (unless you do extend the main compartment).

Do you suggest that the cracks consented to bolting? Attention hardman; as your phalus-like digits are forced into the unprotected opening, the yielding feminine earth has no say, has no choice in the matter at all! She lies there unable to defend herself from the intrusive groping, this onslought, this molestation, this unwelcome taking of her innermost secrets. All defenders of the earth should weep now for her pain. It cannot be helped, it cannot be another way! You see now, do you finally see? It is clear and will forever be, that you oh depraved hardman, and all your ilk are in fact rapists, and that ALL form of intercourse with the rock is in fact not other than rape..... Andrea Dworkin

too funny!

I know someone was flying from Tibet with irreplacable artifacs, treasures in fact. Gone with their bags..poof! Ive had other friends who have had their bags mis routed but they got them back a fews days later. A stat I read recently was something like 5+% (like 5-10%?) of the time your bags take a detour...

It kinda pisses me off cuz theres no clear standards really. I don't trust what they tell me on the phone because the "agent" at tyhe gate may just have their own ideas. I remember not too long ago they were allowing sizzors and screwdivers on again of all things! I suppose Ill just have to take my chances on "checking" my bag and hope they don't send it to Miami or some place..

So I'll be flying (within the US) soon and want to bring some climbing gear. I want to do "carry on" instead of checking my bag. What can I carry on? Specifically, rock gear, "pro" like cams? nuts? Big Bros? etc? Also, how about shoes, harness, ATC, slings, biners? Is chalk a no-no? Whats been your experience? Thnx

I likes da chalkin-hoggin! I hates da greesin-juggin!

While you all wuz there, happen to clean any loose blocks nesting up in the trees 'round "thin fingers"??