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Ya, In Edmonds there used to be a funky little shop called Harveys Bike shop. It was on 220th and Hwy 99. I don't know if it is still there but Harvey used to do a lot of vintage stuff. Besides he's kinda a cool little egyptian dude to shoot the brease with.

TG, not really a noodle but I like Couscous for just your purpose. It is a pasta that cooks up quick just give it a shot of boiling water and let sit a minute. It is easy to pack and ya can't break it. Portions are easy to pre pack as well. I have had good look with all kinds of Pilaf type dishes

I second what cracked said. Don't buy them too big. you want pretty solid feel all around your foot. One thing I don't see mentioned. Try the shoes and don't go by the sizes. The last that differant companies use is each a bit different. I find anything Scarpa to be just a little wider but just a bit shorter, all the La sportivas I've tried are narrow, etc. Use the numbers as a guide and adjust.

Iain, your correct about ANSI or OSHA rated hardware. I think if we look back through the thread there is some question about whether it's the OSHA rated or CE certified links verses the Home Depot $1.39 links. Since there is no regulating body the cheapies don't neccessarily follow all the rules. It is probably wise to use two (there cheap ) and figure on the conservitive side. On the other hand I don't know if I would want to try OSHA approved climbing, talk about a fuster cluck

At least from this angle ya don't see the comb-over and the bare spots the comb-over missed! Thats OK if your doin a comb over to cover bare spots on your ass we don't want to see anyway. Great pic. keep up the good work

Thanks for the note Tex. I kinda gathered it would be different. I mostly was told to go to Reimers ranch and Enchanted rock. They both look like private climbing parks. One invite was extended to join a group at New Wall/Great Wall. All the beta I found was for sport stuff and short at that (single pitch 50m rope). Maybe I'll look for some good microbrews instead.

Ya I thought the man was a tad bit confused. I was looking for some beta as to what if anything I could climb. I have a road trip this fall that will have me in Pampa for a few days followed by a few days in Austin then I have a few days to make my way back to here. I found that there is not much even close to rock in Pampa, but in Austin there's some stuff. I'll let ya'all know if it's worth goin when I get back.

So I'm lookin at texasclimbers for some beta an upcoming road trip. Great site those that passed on the link. Anyway there is a thread goin that I had to check out. They must go to a differant school in Texas, at least the instructor did bad idea

One of my earliest partners drove this ford PU that was great at the periodic backfires. One morning outside shelton we were trying to get an early start when he spots the man hiding for a speed trap. With a little bit of a grin he says watch this. He shuts off the ignition , pulls out the choke, and rides compression for a moment. Right in front of the cop we point out the window at him, while my buddy turns the key back on and floors it. There was this tremendous bang and I swear flames rolled out from under the truck. We tried to act cool despite the noise and pulled off quick for a looksie after we were out site. So we're layin under the truck goin, "man I don't see your muffler anywhere", "Dude, I think the whole exhaust pipe split" ... And then we hear this voice sayin " just in case you guys is curious, you two blowin up your truck is about the funniest thing I've seen in a long time. Your eyes were as big as plates. Have a great day" It wasn't too funny right then but a bit later we were rollin on the ground. No Alpine start that day.

"I think 5.14 gear climbs should be the norm, and I look forward to help making that happen.” Might be a little while before 5.14 is my normal trad climb. He makes a good case supporting Bob about trad bein more challenging then sport though. on a sweet climb.

CBS, I think your on the right track. I wonder if it wont add to the work of the belayer. Less line tension gives a little more line to disipate impact. I would think it would reduce the line drag a bunch, great for those sew it up leaders. That would add to the energy transfered to the belay.

Hey T, Your right about bein carefull. The way to do it is to partly fill the can, then place it, then put your kindling or what not around it, then light the the fire. The fumes then ignite nice and controlled. I find that a half can burns about 15 plus minutes if yu don't build the rest of your fire too big.

Mtngrrl, Sorry to hear about your loss. It's a good thing to do what helps for you to find closure. If you go with the cement idea it doesn't have to be encased. Use a cement block or some such weight. Tie it on good with a line that won't rot away soon, then package it up nice (wrapping paper or whatever is appropriate). Take it out to sea and have a little ceremony. If you go with the burn, a little trick that may help that I use when starting fires in wet wood or difficult to burn stuff. Fill a soda can a little less than half full of gas. Then lay it down on the ground before you start the fire. It needs to be on it's side with the pop top on the top side. When it catches fire it will burn for quite a while and conrollably. The gas inside slowly boils and the gas makes a little torch at the vent. Don't reach in there and stir it around until after the gas has burned off.

Thanks for all the good input so far. I will check the texas mountaineer site. I'm not worried too much about the drive. My requirements are that I be in Pampa, Tx. on oct. 26,27 leave on the 28, I need to be in Austin for the 29,30,31, I need to be back in Seattle by Nov.9. I am planning on leaving early and have an invite for south Montana open in Oct. I may bag a 14er with Griz on the way south. The rest is pretty open.

I'm going to be road trippin in Texas end of Oct. I expect to have a few days at the first of Nov to hit a few rocks. If you were in Austin on Nov. 1, would you head for Hueco tanks or stay local? Any beta on the area would be great as I havn't climbed anywhere in that state.

I'd want to look into this a little more. I havn't seen a number in climbing related lits anywhere, but, from my work rigging 3 line diameters is the minimum size for pulleys before you start adding to the friction of the system. I'm sure it is better that a plain biner though.

I know some folks that have done it in two weeks. I must share that the most disappointing climb I made was Denali. I set myself up with strictly 24 days from leaving Seattle to being back. A little bit of weather at 14,3 and again a week at 17,2. We had to bail to get back and several groups made it up the next few days after we left. If your doing vacation scheduleing tight is I'll be back next year though.

MattP, I'm movin against the drift here. Your right on about the migration of perfomance climbing. I started so that I could gain mountains. What I like is somebody else investing the the effort to learn the tricks and show me the short cuts. Remember when you "had" to lay back almost every crack? I like the new tricks even if I haven't mastered a gaston while wearing a crag pack yet. What I don't like is the move towards "seperate" disciplines. I have never met Distel but I know I can't crank some of the stuff he shares in his pics. I might be wrong but he may have a challenge mounting a huge peak baggin trip that calls for hours of bushwackin and sloggin. Thats cool though were both climbers and entitled to do what were into. I think there is a fine line between chest beatin and dissin on a bro.

Dirt bags we be less likely to leave or lose gear as it is more valuable to them yuppie arcterx soft shell wearing capicino drinking suburau driving climbers are more likely to leave gear. The amount of gear you leave is directly related to where wear you fall on this spectrum. I believe I fall right in the middle which means for every piece of gear I find I lose a peice of equal value. E8 , I think your just about right. I fall slightly to the dirt bag side. I think I keep more than I find. The question is to find the popular yuppie trad climbs so that I can find usefull bootie. I quess I can use more draws but cams are so much sweeter. Last year for instance I made a couple trips to sandpoint Id. to look for new routes. On one trip I decided to spend a day messin around Wa pass on the trip over. Pretty nice climbs ended up finding three almost new wallnuts, one Zero and two tricams. Pretty good day. Once outside sanpoint I found two steel rap rings left them swapped out the slings. Net positve trip, Yay yuppie gear donars

I find booty and then I leave some somewhere else. Considering that we all do about the same, how much gear ya quess is out there in the rotating pool of booty? Any ideas?

Marylou, I had a very similar case. My foot was pinned together after my fall. The tireds go on for a little bit. Best advice I got was to blow off all the lookyloos and just rest when you need to . I used to take a pillow along on walks and when it was time to rest a bit I would just sit down and do that. when I felt better I would get up and leave. After three or four weeks I was doing pretty good. Just don't overwork your foot and it will straighten out pretty soon.

This would make a lot of sense. Stainless steel is much more "noble" in the electromotive series than aluminum. catbirdseat, could you please explain this a little better? - it sounds interesting but i obviously dont have the scientific background that you do. what is a galvanic cell? Miller, now it's my turn to do the "post like CBS" A galvanic cell is a battery. Anytime you put two differant metals connected electrically in a conductive fluid you make a little battery (you ever see one of those clocks that runs when you stick two differant pins in a potato?). The more noble metal stays good while the less noble corrodes. That sets up a place for cracks and failure. In a biner you have two metals connected and then you add sweat, Bingo little battery that slowly eats your gear while it runs itself dead. Fresh water is non conductive, either wash your gear once in a while or just climb in the rain and you prevent the conditions.

[quote Back to the thread: can anyone think of something appealing to eat at 10 grand or above that isn't loaded with fat? Pizza? Sausage? Sheesh, I couldn't even drink water without gagging. BDS Matt P brings up some good points. It is a challenge to eat for some up high. But don't forget calories are your friend when climbing. Fats are high in calories, foods high in carbs are good for calories. Easy prep, easy cleanup is Anything that gets you to keep up your liquid intake, that helps you with calories is good. I like easy digest stuff morn. and aft. In the evening a fatty or high carb meal helps me sleep a little warmer. I have had to make some changes in my diet but these basic ideas still hold. I don't know if there is any "magic" foods.

I was doing a lot of youth trips a few years back. One kid after all the training and stuff showed up for a weekend with four boxes of twinkies and four bags of hot dogs to do the weekend. The Poor guy figures out by sunday afternoon that that was a bad idea. On a more serious, when I am up there two things I like are hot jello (just bring the dry mix and add to hot water, makes a pretty good hot fruit drink. fairly light weight). Another thing is Pizza in a cup. Recipes vary I usually go with chopped HC, Dry onions, dry cheese (something like shredded parmesian doesn't freeze up to bad), and then some dried spaghetti sauce. Add hot water then scoop out and eat with a tortilla.

TLG, I second the good lashing comment. I think either one of the tarps will do fine. But, If you let anything flap in the breeze it will die in a few hours.