fenderfour

They all open beer if you know how.

The Metolius tool has been ground so that the clip end is wider than the hook end, making it easier to get at small (aid climbing) stoppers.

seattle fabrics or REI http://www.seattlefabrics.com/

I saw some Stubais in action on some aerated glacial ice over the weekend. They did not do well for climbing anything steep, but they seemed to hold their own on the flatter (<30 deg) stuff. I certainly wouldn't take them on a climb that I expected a lot of ice, but they should be ok for an occasional icy patch.

Sometimes all you gotta do is Google it... http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation/current-conditions/mta-climbing-report.shtml Don't forget to pick up a permit.

Super-secret Northgate Ice. I'm going for the FA.

Here's somethign I put together a while ago from the bulger list. The comments are from Smoot's website. I hope he doesn't sue me... 479801-100PeaksClean.xls

You said Solo AID, right? Two 'biners, two clove hitches with 3-4 feet of rope between them. Build a bomber upward pull anchor at the ground and start climbing. As you move, alternate retying one of the clove hitches so that you are always tied in. No real need for backup, unless you don't trust a clove hitch on a locking 'biner. You would protect the climb as normal. Most times you would leave the unanchored end dangling so that it doesn't catch on anything, bu you could tie into it as well. I doubt you will be moving fast enough for the system to be too much of a PIA. Where you headed? I usually hit Index once a week for a little aid after work. PM me if interested

Alice lake

Brian Miller did the rescue piece on Forbidden in the Seattle Weekly in February. I would say that he is unusually qualified to write this article after being airlifted off Forbidden.

I will second the "No Beal" sentiment. I picked up a 9.8 single last year and it's pretty chewed up after one season of use. I'm not impressed.

A couple of long slings are all you need to set a handline to the summit block. It's 3rd class, but very exposed on the right as you head up.

observed conditions July 2nd: Choss, gapers, moderate climbing.

Didn't Cobra Commander already stake out Keith Leeman's garbage? Maybe we can take a collection to support the cost of a Dru stakeout. I'll donate enough for a 12 pack of PBR.

Using a micrometer to ensure proper length of his tied doubles. thank you.

Am I the only one who finds this a bit callous and insulting? I think he's absolutely right. Engineers can never crave excitement. They get all they need just going to the coffee pot and bumping into the only (homely) woman in the building.

My $0.02 on cam hooks. 1. Leeper cam hooks rock, especially the fat chromoly unit 2. Pika camhooks suck ass. I started with a couple of Pikas on City park about 6 months ago. On the very first placement the damn thing twisted and bent. On the second placement, it bent some more, went PING! and dropped me about 20 feet. Then I got my hands on the Leepers. They are the shit. They flex a tiny bit, but they bite and hold. I have two of the regular size and two of the wides. I have no problem putting my big 200+ pound ass on one of those with a full-on aid climbing rack on. Go back to ingoring me now.

The radar gun sends out two beams, one on the road in front of or beside the cop car and one on your car. The radar gun subtracts one from the other to arrive at your speed. There are plenty of tricks to getting out of a speeding ticket. You will have to send in a request to subpoena the officer, as well as a person who is certified to calibrate the equipment. The county has to pay for their time and will usually not bring in the certified calibrator, dimissing your case. They might also reschedule it, requiring you to waste another day of work.

I recently climbed lieback flake at Neat and Cool (Squish) as a chimney/offwidth. I don't know what it would be rated, but it worked me good. If you haven't climbed it, it starts out a couple of feet wide and slowly narrows down at the top. I think it's about 40-50 feet in total.

Remember - only the calories burned give you energy. The rest of them take energy to haul around.

I made it to the entrance gulley. A member of my party wasn't feeling well, so we turned back. The route and the descent path look almost entirely snow-free. There may be a few small patches hiding in the shade. The entire basin was bug-free.

I was worried that he would get one nomination. I was hopeful when the session ended without Rehnquist retiring. Now I am dismayed that he will likely get two. shit shit shit shit shit shit fuck.

Let's not inadvertantly cause concern through a misunderstanding. Nylon is not as strong as SpectraDyneema. Knots do reduce the strength of the rope/sling/whatever. Now for the key statement: Nylon when knotted properly is plenty strong for climbing. The main reason you wouldn't want to tie your own cam slings is the bulky knot and the tendency of knots to come untied. If you don't mind the bulk or checking the knot frequently, you should be fine.

"it's all big and bulgy, like a moose"

Rock Climbing Anchors and More Rock Climbing Anchors by John Long and Craig Luebben, Falcon Press