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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. Link cams are neat. I certainly won't replace my whole rack, but I think I will buy a second one. One thing I have noticed - The cam needs more maintenance than your "normal" units. I have to lube it every other weekend to prevent squeaks and stickiness. I don't really understand the need for two or three sizes. The largest one covers the "hands" range. Do the other sizes really extend the range of the "Set" enough to matter?
  2. Heading to tieton this weekend. What do you recommend in the 5.8-5.10b range? Which would be a better mutlipitch on Goose Egg, Ride the Lightning or Dirty Sanchez? -thanks y'all.
  3. Got the pack. I can hardly wait to start modifying it. One question - it has tool tube type clips on the bottom, but nothing up higher. What is the recommended set up? I currently have one of the short simple straps looped through the mini-daisy up high.
  4. That's not very responsible - shirking customer service to go climbing....
  5. I can't play any instruments, but I can play my organ like a son-of-a-bitch
  6. Needless to say, it was a zoo up there on saturday. The first party on route pitched it short, so we were obliged to continue. Thanks for clearing that up.
  7. I went up Orbit on Saturday, but got off route and was hoping someone on here could tell me what I climbed. It wasn't in the second Ed. Leavenworth guide. I've never been up the route before and the pitches seemed really short to me, at least at first - here's where we went: Pitch 1: about 30m up easy stuff to a belay at a tree. Pitch 2: (20m) went up a short squeeze chimney to a belay just above. Pitch 3: (20m) was a short ramp to the left. Pitch 4: (20m) was up a finger crack/layback to a large flake where I belayed. This is where I think we took a wrong turn. Pitch 5: From the flake we stepped out, up, and right into a diehedral. There wasn't a lot of pro to be had up there. There were also 3-4 old death bolts. One looked like a 16 penny nail with an old drilled aluminum extrusion for a hanger. This pitch was a solid 50m of 5.(harder than 5.8+). This led to a decent ledge belay. Pitch 6?: 40m or so that continued up the diehedral for a short way, then stepped out right again (exciting) to some more unprotected face climbing, then over a small roof on chickenheads to a huge belay ledge. Pitch 7&8: Two more long pitches of easy chickenheads lead to the top. Judging form the amount of lichen, what we were on does not see much traffic. Any ideas what it could be? -Thanks BTW - as we were walking out (twilight), we saw someone belaying on the last pitch of Outerspace - did you guys make it out ok?
  8. Neal Peart (Drummer for Rush) trundles rocks at Squamish
  9. F_ck tick lists. Everytime I make a god-d_mned tick list I don't get a d_mn thing ticked off. This summer, I'm gonna climb.
  10. fenderfour

    Gear Question

    Anything. You should not do anything in utilikilts. In fact, someone should slap miller for even joking about utilikilts.
  11. I'm not sure where that pic was taken exactly. It looks like the lower section just out of the basin. we stayed along the basin, then went straight up and to the left of the big hump at the end of the basin. We didn't see much slide activity on the way in, but we saw a lot of little sloughs on the way out, mostly caused by trees dropping their load.
  12. It's the 2-3 day ascent thats creating problems. Get it down to 1-2 days and call it macaroni.
  13. Which was good advice. The tools are the shit. Fully modular to do whatever I want.
  14. I could be wrong, but I think you are the biggest gear junkie on cc.com.
  15. Went up there Saturday. We only had 1.5 days to climb and bailed after finding shitty conditions. Thigh deep snow with snowshoes on is no fun. On a positive note - We have created a nice snowshoe track from the lower lodge to the start of the route (or so). Low-effort approach for the next party. Strong effort fellas. The snow was tough.
  16. I'm calling bullshit - look at the camera tilt!
  17. My beloved Serratus Icefall is showing it's years. I will probably be buying one of your bags sometime this year.
  18. Don't be fatuous Jeffrey.
  19. Absolutely - you should buy a bag from this guy instead: CiloGear
  20. Climbing is, at least on some level, about the challenges we decide to face. If it weren't difficult I doubt most climbers would bother with it. This difficulty takes many forms. For some people, just getting up the dog route on Rainier is a worthy accomplishment. Others need to go hunting for Neutrinos on difficult alpine routes. Regardless of what it is, it's a challenge. Do we really need another gadget to reduce the challenges that we decide to throw ourselves at?
  21. ....and techboy never posted again.
  22. Take it easy, there's a beverage present
  23. tard climbing? How do you keep them still long enough? Drugs?
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