fenderfour

I've made and used this stuff before Moose Goo It's tasty and easy to pack. These days, it's all snickers or payday bars (when it's hot out). I guess fast & light food seems silly to me. Top alpinist probably need to worry about it. Folks like you and I just need to get more fit.

Until you fail, you don't really know what you are capable of.

Pictures man, pictures. You guys gush about beacon, let's see it.

Stuck rope = hunker down, but STAY TIED IN!!! And fuck the whistle. Someone already went for help, your whistle is just making a scene. There is inherent risk in climbing. One risk is that your rope may get stuck and you may spend a few hours on a ledge TIED IN to the stuck rope, waiting for help. The moral of the story is, at a minimum, all newbies should know that they stay TIED IN until directly told to untie by someone who knows what they are doing. It wasn't mentioned, but the belayer should probably know how to escape the belay so they can go for help if needed. More anchors would have made this a little easier, but not any safer.

80m? isn't this getting out of hand? I haven't seen any of the thin ropes for sale on a spool just yet. I'm pretty sure that's the only way you are going to get an 80m rope

White river as in Mt Rainier? That's not NW forest pass, that's the day use fee or the yearly (golden eagle?) pass.

I love bacon.

Hey, this started as a poo thread.

"Grow a sack and buy some nuts"

That bolt should be chopped anyway. You can protect with a #6.

It might entice them to shit on the most popular ledge at your favorite crag.

I'm interested. The only chockstones to practice on at the gym are the fat guys who can't make it up the 5.6. They get a little pissy when you use their ear as a mono pocket and climb through.

It looks like they are installing some rad fourth class lines.

I was climbing with some friends at Clem's Holler on Sunday. We were on Gunrack on the left side of the crag and heard a loud crashing from the far right side. A large rock was coming down the slabs to the right of the routes listed in the Kramar guide. It continued some ways down the approach trail. No one was climbing in the immediate area and no one was on the trail at the time. It was a good reminder that things can happen when you least expect them. Be careful out there.

Is that Judge Judy?

Try calling the outfitters down there. Sr. Limon and Sr. Reyes have climbed many different routes. Since they are outfitters not guides, they are more likely to help out.

I've got a real boner for Squamish these days.

I'm tough and bitter. They always go after my partner first.

I think the M's are funny because they take safety to a new level. Not a bad thing when teaching n00bs.

incremental design improvement. Did you test the hammers on the dog? How did the Stubai do compared to the Kong?

It is a big grey area. If someone only has one locker on an anchor, I will let it go. If someone is about to TR off webbing, I will step in. Every situation is different. I was climbing on the Apron with a new climber this weekend. We topped out and had to do a few of the exposed fourth class slabs to get down Broadway. My partner was a bit sketched looking at the exposure, so I set a fixed line. Another couple was there eying the exposure with trepidation. I offered them the fixed line. They both tied in with kleimheists attached to their leg loops. This looked more like an autoblock for rappel rather than a way to traverse a fixed line. If one of them had fallen, they would have dropped straight on their head, but they wouldn't have fallen to their death, so I let it go.

I always ask one question: Is anyone going to die if I let this go? If the answer is yes, I step in. If it's no, I let things happen.

not so weird, but oh so fun: on an open project i'm currently trying, there's a left hand side-pully teensy crimp, and the next hold for the right hand is a half pad crimp up and left of it, so it's a weird balancy dyno off of a high left foot, up and over drive-by to a decent right hand crimp and my body pendulums all the way around pivoting on the left toe and right crimp and it's about aim and then powering to hold the swing with one hand, since the left crimp becomes virtually useless once i've swung onto the right hand. whew. oh and it's overhung too, adding to the above issues. Is there a translator in the house?

It's a 5.12 in the hiking world.

They will probably investigate tents/bivies in strange places.