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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. Fish may take a while to get you a ledge. It's largely a one man operation and he climbs.
  2. Routes are rated by the FA party. A majority of FA's were on lead. Therefore, the grade listed is for a lead climb. Using your flawed logic, routes should be downgraded for toprope since you do not have to place gear. Celestial Groove is a 5.9+ on lead, but only a 5.8 on TR. Breakfast of champions is a 5.10a on lead, and a 5.9 on TR. I've been on 5.8's that have spanked me. Instead of debating the numbers, I try to get my friends to lead them so they too, can get spanked on hard "easy" climbs.
  3. Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 5/19/2008 Trip Report: This is the non trip report trip report. I'm just here to tell you that the route is climbable. You can drive about 2 miles from the Shannon Creek trail head. The trail is under snow, take the ridge up or straight line up the hill. The glacier is what you would expect this time of year. The gulley on the summit is a bit icy. AAI had a crew up there for a 5 day seminar Oh, and somebody left a gigantic pile of shit at the notch. Thanks! Approach Notes: Park ~2 miles from TH
  4. Let's have an OP refresh, shall we?
  5. More importantly: Pitons are specialized equipment. They are mostly used for hard aid climbing routes. Many people bring them along for winter alpine climbing and for first ascents. Using them as a standard part of your rack is probably a bad idea. It is such a bad idea that you are likely to receive a beatingg from the "locals" if you decide to place any on a free climbing route. The fact that you are perplexed at the similarity in size to other clean climbing gear leads me to believe that you don't know what these things are for. Either put them in your closet until you know you need them, or sell them to other people that do.
  6. I normally don't play "pile on the new guy" but this statement bothers me, and I've been hearing a lot of this crap lately. The rating of a climb has nothing to do with it's protection. It only has to do with the difficulty of a climb. The "R", "X", "PG13", or :: speak to the available protection. If it feels 5.9 on toprope, it's 5.9. You don't need a harder grade in a book to lead it, you need bigger balls.
  7. BoC is 10.a? I thought it was more like 10.c. Come on, overhanging rattly fingers is not more than 5.9.
  8. It's still a plastic shovel. Plastic shovels suck. The BD Deply 3 is 20 oz (5 ounces or 2 Clif bars heavier), has an aluminum blade and packs smaller.
  9. Find a fat kid. Dip one end of the piton in peanut butter. Wait.
  10. I would also be grateful. Nothingg likee a good chuck shot to bring a laugh or two.
  11. Boston Basin woudl also be excellent. THe road is washed out adding another 7 miles to the approach, but it's a really nice place to be. You would have it to yourselves too.
  12. "Here's a woman who will toss her body 12 feet up into the air on multiple occasions every day without an ounce of fear." I slowly climb 12 feet in the air to ineptly fall down. Does that count?
  13. Are those shorts or spraypaint? Does it matter?
  14. Senior Citizens in Space, Battered Sandwich, both at Private Idaho, the first short pitch of Thin Fingers.
  15. Aren't you a boulderer? I'd much rather lead a multipitch than work a highball problem.
  16. We also did some hiking and skiing Those pics of CFF are priceless.
  17. already vaccinated along with rabies, yellow fever, and anything else you can be vaccinated for these days. I AM INVINCIBLE!
  18. dumb vantage answer: chop it the permits can be purchased anywhere that sells hunting/fishing licenses. get one before you go to make it easier
  19. That sounds like a good weekend.
  20. I'm going to fall down a steep (for me) couloir or two and drink beer.
  21. Why does it bother you that someone you don't respect is giving you shit on the internet? This is what the internet is for; anonymous slagging of people you don't know. Jeezus.
  22. Did someone bitch about where you parked your van again?
  23. They had an oven at basecamp. Nothing stands in the way of a high-altitude mountaineer when he has fresh banana bread.
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