ken4ord

Alright, I am glad you liked it. Hmmm, I haven't made it for a while maybe this weekend would be a good time to do that.

There was absolutely nothing wrong with Camp Slime for a place to throw down for the evening. Little bit of traffic, sometime crowded, but all the times I camped there I met some cool folk, kickin it drinking beer making plans for routes the next day. I will alway have good memories sit out on top of Near Trapps, drinking a beer, smoking little something, and shooting the breeze. As for easy beginer climbs I would say Gelsa at 5.4 is your best choice. Then Easy O, 3 Pines, and the Horseman for a beginer challenge. If you feel comfortable with those then give some of the others a try like Shockley's, Disneyland, High E. I will tell you though when I went down there and climbed High E I was a 5.8 leader at the time, but that route scared the shit out of me, that second pitch is steep and in your face. Have fun.

I believe it is for that parking lot that is at the Mount Washington trailhead. To get around that one just park on the pavement and walk 100 yards to the trailhead.

Yeah I know I will be post some shit for y'all once I start my African Adventure.

I'll tell what's for lunch, mmmmm mmm good bbq chicken with the meat fallin' off the bone, no wimpy meatless ribs these suckers are meaty, tato salad, beans, corn bread, mmmm dessert you say banana cream pie. Yummy lunch, taste even better when it all you can eat and free.

Freakin' nice pictures . That area is so beautiful, look forward to the slide show.

Rumney is a fun sporto area. Most of the climbs are short and stout. The meadows is the first crag right by the parking lot, it has a large concentration of easier sport climbs any where from 5.6-11c or so. Holderness Corner is a nice 9+ trad line (obvious corner in the middle of the cliff to chains) the arete right of the corner next to it is a nice climb too, I remember it being easy 10 clip up. Captian Fingers is a good short face 11b. All of the climbs in this area are well travel, pretty decent, not too steep like other areas, overall a good intro to the area. My all time favorite sporto route is Waimea 10d/11a, it is on the Waimea Wall on the lefthand side. It is one of the easier routes on this wall. It is where the Fly is and several others hard climbs. It is worth the trek up there for that route. I don't climb to hard, so Waimea is the only one I have done on that wall. Above and to the right of Waimea is a small crag that has some nice 10s the blunted arete Lonesome Dove (?) is my favorite up there. The Main Wall has a mixture of sport and trad lines and routes can be several pitches. That where you want to go for multi-pitch stuff. If you want to do some bouldering as you drive into Rumney you hang a left to get to the parking lot, if you keep going down the road on your right there is the Blackjack Boulder, do lightening crack it will be easy to spot out it is the classic, or you can make a right and there some boulders right next to the road. Not as big as the Blackjack area still good. Whatever you climb in Rumney make sure you got some thick pads, the rock over there is super aggressive. Check out North Conway for some just stellar granite rock climbing. The North Conway area has a good balance of climbs that will suit anyone. Also, right up the road from Rumney (1 hr north) is Cannon, it is a great 1000 foot alpine granite cliff. The routes to do there are Whitney Gillman 5.8, Moby Grape 5.8, Lakeview 5.5 (well actually not sure about Lakeview now it may have been destroyed when the Old Man decided to drop. I wouldn't reccomend Cannon in the spring big pieces come off then, it is usually settled by summer. Have fun you moved out to that area just in time for the best part of the year for climbing.

Hey Will, nice TR. It was good to see all the pictures to all the climbs you did. Next time it will be good to get out and climb with ya besides at 32, but it was a good time still.

Nice job you guys, and nice TR. Pax I can't believe you hand over that offwidth that easy, that is the best climbing on the climb, though the fin is more asthetic, the rock isn't as good. Hey did you do a pure alpine bivy, sans sleeping bag? How did it go?

Well it looks like it isn't a Mountaineers Rope-up people actually got out and climbed. Just don't forget your gaitors for sitting around the campfire.

I knew somebody had to say the answer. I prefer racking on my harness but that doesn't matter much. If you transfer gear over only a few times, by leading in blocks. Also some people are just slow. When I am at the belay, belaying the second, I start transfering gear over to slings and organizing the gear. One sling for all the draws, another sling for the gear (organized by type and size). When I am following a pitch I try and organize the gear on my harness keeping cams together, nuts together, and draws together. As long as you are organized you can swap leads pretty fast even if you use different racking techniques.

You guys must have been moving to slow, I didn't even notice any wasp nest when I was up there.

I used to do what erden explained, but the Reverso or a Gigi is way easier and much safer, it not like they are that expensive.

Agreed. Two regular draws, in oposition is what I have always used. I have never had it come unclipped or broken them. With that said locking biners are safer, but in my opinion, overkill.

True Dat! I remember after my ex experienced that for the first time that was her last time climbing ice, she was freaking.

It won't help, it will just give you an idea of what your hands will feel like until you develop the skills not to do that. The first serious ice season I had, I remember my knuckles being swollen and purplish all winter.

I think 007 did. It was his to start with. I surprised we haven't gotten any training climbing reports. Whatz up with dat????

It rained all week freezing temps are low, can you say ice. Soon

fine, fine, that'll work but i get 75% of the royalties. or one of you fine lads can over here and take care of her latent sexual needs. where's layton when ya need 'em? ken-nope it's not someone you know. she's got the annoying continuous laugh covered though! gug gug gug gug , right you are.

Hey minx is this somebody I know?

Hi, Ken. This comes from someone who has been in the Forest Service for over 30 years and has seen the shift in actions and decisions of the wildlife biologists. It's happening. So your saying that one persons says this and because they have 30 years of experience we should take this and believe it? Sorry man, your gonna have to come up with something better than that make believe some humbo jumbo hearsay like that, jeezus.

Totally agree. For those of you that don't know what a scientific paper should look like the following is sort of the basics. A scientific report should have an abstract (summary of the study), introduction (the purpose why you are performing the study), method (how you went about the study, detail of the study), results (what happened), conclusion (what can be extrapulated from the data. Newsweek or CNN or FOX News really doesn't cut it.

Oh, really? What "radically-environmental" side has the money to provide significant financial support to ANY research? Greenpeace? The Sierra Club? The research that this administration refuses to accept is funded by "radicals" such as the National Institutes of Health, the National Science Foundation, and other highly respected agencies that do not have a specific political agenda. Ideologically-driven "scientists" have infiltrated governmental departments such as the US Forest Service, and I am sure others. They are, like Jim, pushing their tree-hugger, animal-worshipper agenda from the inside. You guys were wrong on the spotted owl, weren't you? Come to find out another predator started eating the shit out of them. The logging ultimately had nothing to do with it - you worship nature and don't care that you are putting people out of work. Dumbass it was't a predator, it was in direct competiton with the Barred Owl. From what I understand the reduction of habitat forced greater competition between the two species. The Barred Owl was a better competitor hence why there was/is still a decline in the Spotted Owl numbers. So it is a combination of reduction of habitat and competition factors why they are declining. Can anybody add to this, that what I understand what is going on? Predator therory is new one to me. Also all this bullshit of "infiltrated" the governmet agencies pushing tree-hugging and animal worship makes for some dumbass conspiracy therory. You when I see you at PC and the crags and stuff like a pretty decent person who for all right have some intelligent thought in the cage upstair, but then you spew dumbass shit like this, I tend to think what a moron. I can't believe I sucked this one. These spray threads are worse than trolls, because there are people out the believe some unfounded information.

Murr I was up there in May and we didn't need crampons. Depending on what level you climb at, it is pretty easy, and not much for pro. Either solo it, or bring 4 or five cams (1-2.5 inches), I think I placed 5 peices on the whole thing. I don't know about what ledge you were talking about it still went at what felt like 5.4 .

Hey Fender4 not I am pretty sure all the wife and testicle parts won't work for Snowbyrd.