ken4ord

50% or 100% coming unclipped, I'll have to check that, I don't really care personally cause I don't use that set up. The chances of blowing out stitching, is low, maybe never has happened, who knows. I guess I just don't understand why use a daisy chain? What is the advantage of using a daisy chain and locking biner (for an application that they are not designed for) over just using a locking biner and the rope? I have yet to see any advantages using a daisy. Though I can think of advantages to using the rope and locker over using a daisy and locker. (1) your dynamically attached to the anchor (though sometimes it is minimal), (2) You can adjust the distance from the anchor to almost any length you want, dependant on how much slack you have after you have pulled up all the rope, (3) adjusting the anchor length you should never have to unclip or open your locking biner for any reason, (4) one less item you have to bring along. Anyone have any answers to why daisies are more advantageous, please share?

Dope my bad, I'll fix that. Yes clove hitch.

My friend was out here this weeekend and he was just as surprised as I was to see how many people use daisies to anchor in. He also showed me something I never thought of, where somebody shortening up to the anchor can be released from the anchor. Here is the scenario, check it for yourself. So if you take the last loop and clip into the anchor, but it is too long and you want to shorten it up, be closer to the anchor. A common short cut is to clip one of the loops that is closer to your harness into the biner without unclipping the end loop. The problem is that if the loops blow out it releases the person from being anchored in. Also, when you do this you load the stitches with an outward pull, which weaker than across. Granted a bit of force is still needed to blow out the loops, but I personally would not want to risk that. My suggestion is to learn how to tie a clove hitch with the rope, it make you dynamic to the anchor, it is adjustable with out having to open your biner, and you don't need to have some silly sling wrapped around your harness while you are climbing. Furthermore as for buliding anchor with a daisy I would reccomend against it for basically the same reasons stated above. If you are out of slings use the rope to anchor yourself to the peices individually, (check out Freedom of the Hills and John Longs, Anchors book on how to do this, it is very easy, again just need to know how to tie a clove hitch). Yes, I meant clove hitch instead of girth hitch. Sorry.

If you go to do the Pioneer Route, you won't need aiders to do it, the bolts are really close together. Just french-free it, (clip the bolt and pull on the draw as a hand hold to reach the next one, if you get tired have your partner take or clip the bolt into your harness).

CG33 I know that I want to hit the Phoneix buttress at some point this weekend, if you want to go your welcome join in. Also last year a bunch of folks got together for a day of cragging down in the gorge.

Great times, great weather, and great people, not much more to say about this weekend. Wish I would have gotten a little more rock climbing in, but oh well. Did get up into WA Pass Friday and climbed SW Butt on SEWS, very nice day out. Joined everybody down in 11worth for some beers at the campground. Saturday rode Devil's Gulch, hellish climb (10 miles 3400 ft.), followed by 12 miles of downhill. What a blast. That evening did my part in trying to consume as much TG goodness and brats. I managed to get a little lit that night but I am sure no one noticed. Up early despite my head feeling like it was getting hit with a hammer every step I took. We had quite a sucessful newbie day at Clamshell. (Anyone lose a gray sweatshirt at the crag, PM me?) Ended the day at Sleeping Lady with round of ice creams. Awesome weekend. Shouts out to Kurt, for a putting it together, TG for a most delicous stout, Tex for driving it up (though he arrived tapless ), those who chipped in on the breakfast (I believe most got a burro or two), and everyone who showed up.

CG33 staying at a motel puts you qute a ways from the festivities, like Dru said yu'll need a DD. Camong out at the Grasslands is really nice and you won't have drive anywhere when you are finished drinking, eating and socializing.

I'll bring home the bacon!! Hope to be there early Fri evening!! Alright thanks, sounds like breafast is on. I'm siked. That would be great if you can join us for a ride. I am out of here tonight, see you all up there.

Hey Fender4, I pretty much sharpen my ice tools like Dubya described. Though be careful about over sharpening, which can cause the tip/edge to bend over really quick. As for sharening ice screws if you know someone witha CNC machine that is the bomb. Now-a-day I just use small jewler files.

Ok people do I hear anyone stepping up to bring some: Tortillas Bacon Speak up!

Cool, thanks chica. Yeah right now I think it is just my friend Sam and myself riding, you are more than welcome to join us.

Alright I got a volunteer for the cheese. All that is needed is: bacon another container of salsa more tortillas Any takers? Matt if you can't find anyone to haul the canopy thingy I can, though I won't be getting to 11worth until Friday evening. Also I would have to strap it on to my roof. I am planning on attending the Smiffy thingy too.

Doesn't really matter, though most of the time I will girth hitch the pin if I am in a good stance. The only reason I do that is because, I have eliminated using one biner (1 less item that could fail in the complete system), also you don't have to think about which way the gate is facing or whether or not the biner would be loaded wrong in the event of a fall.

If you are climbing in a party of three I would just be belayed on a single. You can use them as doubles, but there is no advantage. The diadvantage would be feeding out rope through the belay device will be slow, so you increase your chance of being shorted when you go for a clip. If you want to use doubles inorder to protect a pitch that wandering back forth and want the ropes to split up the pro to reduce drag, the drag will be in your belay device.

You are the man!!!!!

Hey IIB, check out the the Rope-up thread, I know a lot of people from the Seattle area will be heading to Leavenworth this weekend. I am sure you might be able to find a ride up.

Sweet thanks Bug! Sounds like a Sunday Breakie is coming together.

Right on Aurora (99) across from Greenlake.

Well doesn't have to be that way, but I know you guys like that, which I have not figure out why.

Alright chelle, cool Come on people meat, more wraps, cheese Gromet?

Alright I am thinking food for Sunday morning. Hell the Oregonian contingent has already talked breakfast for Tuft Love Fest but there has been no talk of food for the Rope-up. Here's what I suggest. Breakfast Burros! Are you all up for it. I have a two burner stove and I bring plenty of eggs for everybody and I don't mind cooking. Other items needed to pull this off will be: Meat (sausages or bacon) Salsa (2 large containers) Flour Tortillas (4 packages) Cheese (4 lbs) Another Two Burner Stove Do I hear other volunteers for the other items?

The weather forecast looks good, I am so stoked. No mudfest this year.

Sounds like a nice little trip.

I agree I love giving a rental a good beating that isn't visible.

If any of you mountain bikers are interested on Saturday this Rope-up weekend I am planning on doing mountain bike ride. Most likely Devil's Gulch.