ken4ord

Alright I got a volunteer for the cheese. All that is needed is: bacon another container of salsa more tortillas Any takers? Matt if you can't find anyone to haul the canopy thingy I can, though I won't be getting to 11worth until Friday evening. Also I would have to strap it on to my roof. I am planning on attending the Smiffy thingy too.

Doesn't really matter, though most of the time I will girth hitch the pin if I am in a good stance. The only reason I do that is because, I have eliminated using one biner (1 less item that could fail in the complete system), also you don't have to think about which way the gate is facing or whether or not the biner would be loaded wrong in the event of a fall.

If you are climbing in a party of three I would just be belayed on a single. You can use them as doubles, but there is no advantage. The diadvantage would be feeding out rope through the belay device will be slow, so you increase your chance of being shorted when you go for a clip. If you want to use doubles inorder to protect a pitch that wandering back forth and want the ropes to split up the pro to reduce drag, the drag will be in your belay device.

You are the man!!!!!

Hey IIB, check out the the Rope-up thread, I know a lot of people from the Seattle area will be heading to Leavenworth this weekend. I am sure you might be able to find a ride up.

Sweet thanks Bug! Sounds like a Sunday Breakie is coming together.

Right on Aurora (99) across from Greenlake.

Well doesn't have to be that way, but I know you guys like that, which I have not figure out why.

Alright chelle, cool Come on people meat, more wraps, cheese Gromet?

Alright I am thinking food for Sunday morning. Hell the Oregonian contingent has already talked breakfast for Tuft Love Fest but there has been no talk of food for the Rope-up. Here's what I suggest. Breakfast Burros! Are you all up for it. I have a two burner stove and I bring plenty of eggs for everybody and I don't mind cooking. Other items needed to pull this off will be: Meat (sausages or bacon) Salsa (2 large containers) Flour Tortillas (4 packages) Cheese (4 lbs) Another Two Burner Stove Do I hear other volunteers for the other items?

The weather forecast looks good, I am so stoked. No mudfest this year.

Sounds like a nice little trip.

I agree I love giving a rental a good beating that isn't visible.

If any of you mountain bikers are interested on Saturday this Rope-up weekend I am planning on doing mountain bike ride. Most likely Devil's Gulch.

Hey Pax, I might join you over at Bruce's Boulder on Sunday. I think I will have a couple of newbies that will be coming up on Sunday. Sounds like that might be a good spot for rock 101 for them. I got to talk to them and find out if they are still interested in coming up. Ok Saturday I am doing a mountain bike ride, if anyone wants to join in, bring your ride. Right now I am thinking Devil's Gulch trail. Does anyone know where there are some good trails in L-town? I hear there is some good free riding there, help anyone. So Alpine K what is the the cerveca situation? Is there going to be TG goodness or other type of beer. Do we need to start a slush fund at tnights PC?

My first bivy was unplanned, I was on a sort of honeymoon. I say 'sort of', cause Chess at the time invited my friend Greg along. Well we went up to the Canadian Rockies, a week and half we had already done several climbs before we planned on going into Mt Louis. Both Chess and Greg wanted to rope up for the fourth class approach, which slowed us down. Also we weren't at all proficent at alpine climbing, so we had pretty much a wall rack, two regular 10.5 lines, and belayed out everything. After a while I began to get worried as I saw the sun sink behind the mountains we still had maybe 1000 feet of climbing ahead of us and maybe 2 below us. So I started soloing pitches as Chess belayed Greg who was hauling the pack. Eventually I got to this big ass ledge and saw about 600 feet of climbing and thought 'well this is where we are spending the night'. I was pretty calm about it, Chess on the other hand freaked. She started crying and screaming about the B&B she reserved and how we couldn't spend the night, blah, blah, blah. We started going back and forth, me 'There is nothing we can do about that now and acting like a lunatic is not going to help!' 'Well it is not like I am going to jump off the ledge!' 'Well it sure as hell seems like you will!' She calmed down and eventually my friend joined us on the ledge, and reached the same conclusion I did. So we hunkered down luckily there was some stone walls already built and it felt really warm out. Bad part was after the food and water assesment we realized that we had 2.5 power bars and 1 liter of water. I knew then that is was going to be slow going out. So we laid out the ropes for padding, put on all our clothes, Chess and I had bivy sacks, so I gave my pack to Greg and we proceeded to get some Z's. Probably around 2 I woke up with Chess shivering uncontrolibly, I was cold too so we took turn warming each other. It turned out to be ok. That became the patern for the rest of the night, warm each other, sleep, get cold, wake, repeat. Eventually the day broke, but we got a slow start. The climbing was moderate, but felt hard as hell cause we didn't get to really eat anything. We made the summit started our way down. Lucky for us on one of the rappels there was a seep. Not enough to collect water, but enough to get sips by sucking the rock. We all took turns. Finally we were on the ground, then began the slog, it took twice as long to hike out as it did to get in, though we did it. Burgers and beer never tasted so good. Chess and I made it to the B&B and took full advantage of having a bed and no neighbor in a tent. All was good once again.

Hey Tim, The base of Cathedral and Whitehorse are reached in less than 5 minutes, farther ends of the cliffs are reached in 20 minutes. Cannon is 30 minutes approach from the car to the base, park at the south end of the lake that you pass alongside the highway going south. The parking lot is acessed by going south bound only. Walk down the bike path until you see a big boulder next to the trail with a climbers trail next to it, shoot straight up the talus to the base. This is the standard approach now-a-days, it is new trail that was opened up by a big rock slide a few years back. Scary story to go along with that, it came down just two days before a friend and I were going to climb underneath it. At the base hang a left go about 150 yards the will be a big gully/dike/choss then a narrow buttress split by a hand crack that is Reppy's Crack var. for Moby Grape. Follow along the base for another 150 yards to reach VMC Direct Direct is the hardman free classic on there I have only done the first 5 pitches, it is awesome, can't remember what the start looks like, sorry. Don't bother with Wiesners, Lakeview and such that was recomended, the Old Man kissed all those climbs goodbye for a while. No matter where you are on the cliff you are bound to see some rock fall, hopefully little buzzers, but Moby Grape, VMC and Whitney G is about as safe and solid as you can get on the cliff. Check out Old Town Hall road for free camping in the No. Conway area, it is North of No. Conway on the right (past Ragged Mountain gear store) on 302. Follow road for a while until you are past the residential area. North Conway cragging is freaking great.

Hey bobbyperu was saying you guys were going to be out there. There is a good possibility that I will end up out there, though right now I am waiting to see if a alpine ice weekend up north materializes should know by tonight.

It was money wasted right from the get go.

Hey yeah CG33, I forgot all about the Moat, definitely go there over Delaney's, good brew, alright bbq, and other eats.

Where you going craggin', not that I am interested in going?

Oh yeah forgot to mention that I have all the books and maps. You can borrow them if you want. Also I know of some good free camping, it is just easier to point that shit out on maps, if you are interested. Westside Road is definitely the way to go around the valley. Also if you do Whitney G do the 5.8 variations, the 5.7 had some recent rockfall on it and the 5.8 variation is more true to the ridge. Also there is a great last pitch variation to WG that goes at 5.9+ it is a cool step out above the Black Dike. Cannon is notorious for big rockfall, mainly in the spring. Oh yeah if you are going there with your girl, make sure to go to Bellini's awesome italian food, go with a giants appetite though, usually a long wait which can be spent at the bar. Or what my girlfriend I used to do is order a single meal and sit by the river and eat what we could have have leftovers for lunch for both of us, I am serious 4 meals in 1. Have fun

Hey Tim, Ed Websters guide is the guide to have for the area, it is a great read too. If you find the old one it has Cannon, Whitehorse, Cathedral, and surrounding crags. The newest guide only cover Cathedral, Whitehorse, and surrounding crags, with the intention of producing a Cannon and surrounding crags guide. There is a Roxfax guide that sort of sux but has the classics listed, there is also a Cannon guide that is ok. The Rumney guide is good. If you want to borrow any get in touch with me. Alright routes. The Prow rocks and it is fairly easy to french free if you can't pull the cruxs 5.11 5-6p. Ok here the list, not complete though: Cathedral Thin Air 5.6 4p (link first 2 with regular length rope) Funhouse 5.7 2p (outside corner fun var. 5.8) Still in Saigon 5.8 1p Three Birches 5.8 2p Pine Tree Eliminate 5.8 1p Bombardment 5.8 1p (link) ***RecomBeast 5.9 5p (Recompense w/ Beast Flake var) ***most anything on the Barber Wall 5.9-5.12 1p ***Diedra 5.10a 5p (first couple pitches can be done in the rain) ***Rapid Transit 5.10a 3p ***North End has several single pitch cracks 5.7-5.11 Whitehorse Short Order 5.9 1p (walk up to the second pitch don't do first, dirty) ***Inferno 5.8 4p ***Hotter than Hell 5.9 4p ***Children Crusade 5.9 3p (old skool 9, bolted on lead) ***Children Crusade Complete 5.11 2-3p more ***Last Unicorn 5.10c 4p ***Seventh Seal 5.10b 1p ***???Thin crack next to SS 5.1od 1p ***???From the top the last two stand on block lean into the wall up then traverse out left 5.10a 1p Cannon ***Whitney Gilman obvious ridge on LH side of the cliff 5.8 4p ***Moby Grape 5.8 9-11p in the middle of the cliff. IMO Cannon is not that safe nor as asthetic, but it was one of the few alpine options. Those two routes rock.

Looking for a partner from Thursday-Sunday (Sept 23-26). Don't want to fuck around with cragging or any thing like that, we got a weather break time to take advantage of it. I would like to do something big and alpine I'll lead up to the 5.9 range right now follow harder stuff, want a competent partner to swap leads with. Preference will go to those of ya that I have climbed with already.

Looking for a partner to climb the corporate ladder, eh?