ken4ord

Well it was as expected, people looking at me like I was insane and couldn't begin to understand what a muzungo is doing riding the trails that run inbetween their houses and fields in the dark. There were childern running away and crying because they were frightened, others just curious. The teenagers would laugh at the crazy Muzungo riding around and then try to keep up, I would hear the, 'slap slap slap' sound of their flip-flops be hind me, then a thud because they tripped. When I started out I thought I knew the trail good enough to navigate my way back to the road. In the dark all the turns looked the same, ocassionly I would try and ask which way to Kiyovu (where I live), no replies ever. Eventually I started to systematically take each trail I saw, most were dead-ends, but the I would find the one that would take down the next level on the hillside, then I would repeat until I found the road. 2.5 hours later I was home with a . Ah that night was definitely going to be legend, I am just curious of what the story will be once it is refined and I am long gone here.

It should be interesting in Kigali, Rwanda tonight. Lately I am getting sick of only getting a 1.5 hours on the bike before it turns dark. As it is, it is quite a show that I put on riding the trails that the people are use for hiking up and down the hillsides. Tonight I am going with lighting, I am sure it is going to freak some people, we'll see.

The long answer: Hexes usually are for people who can't afford or are to cheap to buy cams. Cams are so easy to use why use passive pro like hexes and tricams (though I have to admit sometimes tricams place where nothing else will). What's funny is I hear alot about the virtues of the weight savings having hexes instead of cams, but the same people are out there with both. Rarely do I see someone with hexes instead of cams, (unless it is some old crusty that thinks cams are aid). So instead of saving weight by having hexes instead of cams most people I think add weight to there rack by having hexes. The wide placement seem to be the ones that people are more concerned about because big cams weigh a lot more than big hexes, but if you are in a long wide crack you'll have to bring a few to protect the crack or use a single big cam and walk it. I would rather bring cams than hexes any day. The short answer:

Well if you have only been leading a year, maybe bring aiders is the way to go. It will be your call, depend on your comfort level hanging on bolts. For that route I kept a draw on my harness so whenenver I wanted to rest just clip into a bolt or draw that I placed. If you bring the aid gear, add a fifi hook to your list, it makes life lot easier. As for pitches I recall 2 free, 1 aid/bolt ladder, 1 free (the glory pitch) Oh next time inhale, fewl!!!

Well the only thing I got to say is that now that there are able to fly that high there definitely is no excuse to continue turning that mountain into a trash heap. Maybe they will take this advancment in flying and use it for good causes instead of just ferrying rich people up for their 250k picnic.

Nice picture Dave. I went on a 100k mountain bike ride this last weekend on Saturday. No Fresheeez to report over here. Gisenyi to Kibuye 1 Gisenyi to Kibuye 2

Yeah you can do it that way if you like getting up early. The other way is to do is it to hit some other crags in the morning and cruise up there in the afternoon. Usually after noon people are well on their way. You show up at the base and there is no line just go up for a nice afternoon/evening climb.

Hey AF what about all the slower climbers to clogging up the routes?

awww squidly, knock it off. this is cc.com and we respect everyone's right to say the same thing 50 different ways over and over. come on embrace this charming cc.com trait. afterall nothing says fun like beating a dead horse It not just a cccommie thing, it is just being a climber. 'Hmm let's see how many different ways I can climb this piece of rock.' So any way some of your responses are so damn defensive, it is funny. Let's beat this horse a little more. Being slow isn't a bad thing, nor is pushing yourself, nor climbing an easier route if you are a hardman or hardwoman, nor climbing fast. Shit were not all going to climb the same way, this topic is just about having a little respect and courtesy when you are out there at the crag. Days when I am climbing slow I have no problem turning it over to the party below if they are riding my ass. I know what it can be like when you have a plan in your mind, like seeing how fast you can get up the route, or trying several routes in a day, or what ever the hair up the ass du jour is. I just let them go by, it sort of like driving really slow in the fast..........., oh shit, I forgot this web board is in Washington, any way in the rest of the country if you are driving slower than the rest of the traffic, you usually pull over to the right and let the faster drivers by. The same thing can work in climbing too. I swear I am not lying, it really does work. Likewise if you are riding someone ass, you can ask to pass or just go by when given the opportunity, hey just like in driving too. Oh Washintonian explanation, in the rest of the world if you come up on someone slower than you, you can give them a toot on the horn or flash the lights really quick (the equivalent to asking) nobody usually gets to bent, they pull over when they get a chance. Or you just pass when it is safe, again most people are fine with that. And you could pass whenever, even when it is not safe, this is if you are a dick or an African driver, but that is another story.

Damn Dude, a little late. It is pretty easy say to the party below, "Sorry were slow, do want to pass?" Hell you might have actually climbed the route faster.

If you want them to aid on a seperate line then make sure to clip that second line in critical spots so they won't have to swing inorder to get in to the wall. I am assuming you have a newbie and you want to belay them up is your reason for doing this? It is easier to belay them with the second rope though. Jugging will be made easier for you partner if yo back clean every other bolt. The bolts are super close together, that is why I always reccomend leaving the aid gear at home and just french freeing it. Another vote for the West Side intro pitches, it turn it into a legit route, imo.

Hey Tim, we talked about it before, I will have a week in September to go to Pyrenes or surrounding area. If my gf goes directly back to the States, then I might stick around longer.

What hell are you talking about, there is climbing in RMNP?????

I believe the Bibler's are good in the rain. I was hiking theAT and it down pour for several day straight. There was about six inches of water every where there was a guy outside the shelter in a Bibler, he said he stayed dry. He also said he could poke at the bottom of the tent see the ripples from the water underneath.

Damn I thought I was loosing my mind. I was about to write a WTF post, thinking that you all were deleting my posts, because I live in Africa now. Glad that is not the case, thanks for letting us know Timmy.

Huh? What the hell is that? nsima?

Not that it matters now cause this thread has turned into spray, but this what I got in mind. Another trip to South Africa, hopefully get on some ice. Killimanjaro, probably the Coke Cola route. Mt. Kenya, 10 days on the mountain hopefully several routes. A most likely untouched wall in Rusumo, Tanzania, next week. Southern France for a week sporto shit. And maybe finish up the year with Christmas in Morroco.

Shit here in Rwanda we are paying $5.00 a gallon, it cost me over $50 bucks to fill the gas tank of our RAV 4.

I thought this was going to be about my friends car. I was going to agree that it is a studly car, it sounds like it has gone everywhere.

The interaction with locals mainly consist of them shouting Muzungo, and them spending the rest of the time staring at my every move. Seeing a Muzungo out in the village is way more exciting than watching the corn and bannanas grow, I guess. I did have a good time visiting my guards family, he and his wife just had another baby so we went to his house out about hour out of town and and about 10 minutes hike in. We sat around in their unlit house drinking beer and bannana beer. We be heading back to his village later for the baptism. Lately getting into mountain biking. This area is really great for mountain biking even in town, since there are trail everywhere and even more entertaining seeing the crazy Muzungo riding trails that they won't walk their bikes down. Coming up in May i am going to try and climb some lines on that wall I posted pictures of in Rusumo. Also just found out last night that the Belgian School has a thirty foot climbing wall, now I just need to figure out who to talk to about climbing on it. Aug Mt Kenya, Sept Southern France, maybe Morocco over Christmas, down to Jberg again in June, so I got a lot planned. Being working a ton lately trying to get the lab started up. That's about it. Been getting on anything lately, haven't seen any TR since Buckner(?).

Now that is some f*#ked up shit ... Glad none of that shit goes on here, this is much more fun!!! That is some funny shit, thanks!!!!

Climb: South Africa-Chosspile and Malisberg Date of Climb: 4/2-3/2005 Trip Report: Well I made down to Johannesberg, South Africa for work. After reading all kinds of articles for climbing in SA, I was quite excited since I have not done much since I have been here in Rwanda. It was a little difficult trying to line up partners down there. It seems that people don't use computers as much as we do in the States, but eventually I was able to get line up some partners. First person I hooked up with was Hansie. He was doing some visiting of family and friends and want to get out and climb. Works for me. He picked me up at my hotel once he found it, then we spent about 30 minutes trying to find our way of the city, I was worried that we wouldn't even make it to a crag. Eventually we arrived at the crag after about hour of driving. It was a smallish E38 style crag, bolt protected, slightly better rock, but much more scenic. A view of an untouched overhanging wall. The view from the cliff of the surrounding country side. The waterfall that was near the cliff, with the damn in the background. We spent the day there climbing. We did about 5 or 6 routes and I was cooked at the end. Made me realize how out of shape I have gotten in since I have been in Rwanda. Oh well, it felt great to get out on the rock. Here some pics. Hansie heading up the second route of the day. Me heading up the third route of the day. Hansie taking on a short steep overhanging one move wonder. We finished the day hanging by the waterfall drinking some beers and talking about the day. I was glad to see climbers down in South Africa are like climber everywhere else I been. Well the next day I made plans to get together with some folks from the South African Mountain Club. Essentially South African Mounties. It was me and older couple and friend of theirs. This time getting out of the city was much easier since my guides were from Johannesberg, though it took just as long to get to the parking lot (2 hours). It was beautiful out there, though it was raining. The hike in didn't look promising. Well we had an hour to walk into the crag so we were hoping that it would clear up, since it never rains steadily all day long in South Africa? An hour later we were in the kloof, it was awesome looking. The rock was just like in the Gunks, steep and lots of roofs. We hike down to the base and hung out for while drinking tea, and hoping, but it never cleared. Oh well I will have something to go back to. The main wall The second biggest wall all the climbing was about 2 pitch routes.

Well July I think I may find myself here:

WTF is going on? That is the first from you......