ken4ord

Looking someone who is free to go check out some ice that I saw on the big hill last weekend. Anyone available Friday, tomorrow in the Seattle area that want to go. PM me or call me twoOsix-4five9-two5six4

I know, it sort of fucked over there right now. Luckily most of the climbing I want to do when I first get there is in the opposite direction.

Have you actual done this? What is your ape index? Yes I have and my ape index is -1 if I am lucky. I think I may have skipped a bolt or two. There is probably some better lines around that would be better practice aiding, than the Pioneer Route, it is a great route but doesn't really give you a feel for aid. Oh yeah enjoy the rap, a wild 200 foot free hanging rap, the most exciting part of the climb.

Nice I see ice, hopefully I'll get to geton some of it while I am there.

Hey Fender4, don't bother with aider and all that aid crap. The bolts are close enough to french free it. It goes really quick. Also those lower pitch are alright, turns in to a real climb, otherwise it is two short micro pitches one french free and an awesome 5.7 pitch.

A better question is how long will the ice be there - the Diamond's almost gone I think. I am planning on being there over a year, maybe longer. I have heard that the ice is receeding and going away fast so I am curious to see what will be there, if any.

Well IG, I will be out in Rwanda for a while so if you are wanting to come out and climb Mt Kenya let me know, or anyone else for that matter.

Hey cj001f, give these guys a call, LION OF JUDAH TRAVEL 323-936-1101. I think this is there California office number, but they have an office here too. I think it goes under the African Travel Consortium (206) 363-6136. They were the cheapest that I found. I am going to be living in Rwanda and will be looking for climbing partners in the surronding area, which Kenya and Tanzania fall under. Let me know if you want to hook up and climb out there.

So I sent a letter to Grivel NA and they said, yes the picks are bolted onto to the tool, but they said "The ends of the bolts are peaned over. If picks were to offered separately for a user install my guess is that this would change to some kind of bolt/lock nut system. All speculation at the moment.". So I guess I am not getting a set anytime soon. It would be nice if the pick were replacable. I would probably go and pick myself up a set.

Your right it was Irbis screw, hmm, I don't know if I have seen the Titan screws then.

I had some where the hangers came off. I trust them as much as I would trust a coat hanger placed in ice.

Hey Dave, who has them in stock right now around Seattle? You say an icefest around Seattle, damn that would be funny.

Baron Out of Their Tree

I would tend to think that a tubular picket would be hard to clean out and not hold as well. I have never used them, anybody have any experience with them?

Yeah and for her no worst feeling than being stalked.

Because at this point Grivel doesn't sell replacement picks. Read the blurp at the bottom: Head is not modular I was actually thinking of buying a set of these tools until, I saw you can't chang out the picks. That sort of blows.

I don't know about that. I really hate that bolt on pinky rest, it always slides and is sort of bulky and doesn't feel comfortable. Those tools feel heavy too. Actually for the type of climbing the guy was talking about doing I would reccomend Quarks or Vipers. Both can be used as leashless or leashed tools, have great clearance, good picks, and are just good all around tools.

Maintainence is the best prevention. As longs and I make sure not to let my calouses thicken unevenly, by using file or pumic stone, I don't get flappers.

I f you have a Petzl harness there is a small hole on the gear loops made so that you can clip a biner in there for ice racking. I use those BD clipper thingys in that hole and it works fine. IMO 22cm screws are overkill, they are good for glaciers and alpine where the ice might be crappy. For waterfall ice though especially around here the short screws come in handy. I alway carry on mini, and 3-13cm, then the rest are 17's.

Blah, blah, blah, have fun.

Poor sucka!

That shit out there rocks, steep climbs, tight woods turning, and you be sure to bottom out your Sube.

Shite is not going to form overnight and by next weekend I am sure it will warm again just in time for the weekend. I know crappy attitude.

I was hoping to get up to Lillooet, so yeah it has probably fahqed things up there.

Who cares about neve, it's fucking up my ice climbing.