Climb: 21 Hours in Hyalite- Dielectric, Over Easy, G2, Hangover, Lower Greensleeves
Date of Climb: 11/4/2006
Trip Report:
With the horrendous weather forecast, Matt (NYC007) and I decided to escape the northwest by heading to Hyalite…for the day. After driving the 400 miles on Friday from Spokane we arrived at the trailhead in the dark. We were psyched as we could see a bunch of routes illuminated by the full moon. Soon we were packed up and off to the Genesis area. G1 was lean and very wet, so we did Lower Greensleeves to start the season…by headlamp. After a couple laps we decided to call it a night, but apparently Matt still needed a little more of a pump.
Matt getting some last minute training in.
We got up at 6am and were soon chatting with locals about conditions. We decided to head up to the Corner Climbs to do some mixed stuff, but they were out of condition. Eventually we ended up in the Slot Corner area. We started on Over Easy, a nice WI3 that led to a manky bolt anchor. Curtains was a sketchy pillar, so we skipped it.
Me leading Over Easy
Then I went looking for other climbs up there and I soon found Dielectric Breakdown, mistaking it for Slot Corner (which isn’t in). A party was just finishing it up and the route looked great. After they were down, I lead up. Pumpy, but easier at WI5 instead of 5+ like the guide suggests. Highly recommended!
Me leading a fat Dielectric Breakdown
With daylight to spare we headed back to the parking lot, grabbed some food, and headed up to G2. Matt lead the driest line up the center to a tree belay below the top step since the ice wasn’t very good up top.
Matt leading G2.
We finished the day on Hangover (still quite thin) and got back to the car at dark. Uneventful driving, did I mention that the road is almost entirely snow free?!, got us to Bozeman and I-90. 400 more miles home…
The climbs won't last long if these warm temperatures keep up. Lots of stuff fell down yesterday.
Hope everyone had a good weekend in the gym!
Gear Notes:
Ice gear
Approach Notes:
Subaru. Very little snow on the road