kurthicks

day 1 of my ski season today. Jens is correct.

Got this in my inbox... "The Washington State Winter Recreation Program is developing a strategic plan for the future. At the moment it does not include any climbing. As a member of the Advisory Committee I believe we can have great ice climbing for our citizens in the winter. I have seen other states where water is sprayed on the sides of canyons to have ice climbing parks. It needs your input to figure out where these could be. It needs your input as to where Sno-Parks would be needed for winter climbing. Take a look at: http://www.parks.wa.gov/winter/strategy.asp and give them your comments. Please let your members and other climbing interests know that now is the time for them to point the strategic planner in the direction of where their interests would be served. Every May grants from the program are given for groups who wish to develop winter recreation in Washington. In the past these have included Nordic skiing clubs for grooming trails and building centers and snowmobile clubs for building extensive trails across the state. It has included dog sleders for special trails and Sno-Parks. I do not believe we have ever had a request from climbing interests. The grant forms will be online in March. A coalition of climbing clubs who could mobilize volunteers and matching monies could do great things in the state. If you have any questions or I can be of help please contact me at: Michael Gruskin MGruskin@hotmail.com T: 206.612.2525

REI takes ice tools back, a friend of mine did it.

There will be ice for sure, just bring a raincoat. I've climbed there much later in the season since it's located around 4000' and in the shade.

I don't think it's that poorly bolted, but I do know who bolted it (not me, but I think it's a decent job). let's get together and chat when I get back into town. I've been thinking about setting up a drytool crag and could use some help

Nice job, for sure...drytooling on Granite Point...not cool according to any of the long time local climbers.

That is very poor form and is absolutely unacceptable. :tdown: There is very limited climbable rock in the Palouse and the rock at Granite is friable when under the increased pressure of ice tools. If you need to go drytooling, go to Pullman Rocks or go back to that quarry and drytool there.

i'm sure it's still in. long drive from PDX though. I had friends climb there last weekend. check temperature data here: www.bluewood.com

the last one looks like Careno Right.

it is worth noting that none of the established routes finish anywhere near the summit of the peak. this pic and the topo above add some clarity to slothrop's topo. all of the other routes are not visible off on the right.

If it's still up when I get back in town next week (yea right), I'll go do it and help corroborate on the grade.

Trip: Abiel Peak - Spindrift Daze (FA) Date: 2/3/2007 Trip Report: Matt (NYC007), Bob (Tazman) and I established a new route on the north face of Abiel Peak yesterday. Thanks for making the slog guys, it was worth it. We were indecisive about where to go and what to climb, but Abiel held that "I have lots of unclimbed lines" appeal for us. We had also heard that lots of people were interested in Kent, so that added to our decision. The road to the trailhead was slicker than a skating rink, so we had to bivy in Bob's sweet camper at the Granite Mountain parking lot across I-90. Beers were swilled until too late in the night. A short night with inadequate sleep later found us tromping up the trail, sliding all over the place and falling on our asses, until we got to the valley. We reached the base around 10:00 and scoped out our options. Compared to last year, routes are very thin, but most will go with some work. approaching the route (with hanging daggers below the slab) we picked a line left of the North Face Direct, but right of the 1984 route. We tried the direct line up the hanging daggers, but it was unprotectable and just out of reach. ultimately, we went right a little ways and I took us up the first pitch (AI3X) to a semi-hanging belay under an overhang at about 30M. I think I used a couple of my nine lives on that pitch. it is one of the few where I almost puked upon reaching the belay. two more pitches of ice took us up to a steep snow couloir filled with mostly great neve. starting up the first pitch Somewhere in there it started snowing, then it turned into a freezing mist...Then the spindrift started. Bob cresting the difficulties into the couloir...happy to be out of the firing line Matt took us on a long simul pitch up the couloir; after which I took us up to the top. we gained the 1984 route for about 50' at the top of our route. Matt finishing up We skipped the half ropelength walk to the summit and walked off down the west ridge to the descent gully since it was getting dark and we were soaking wet. A long and dreamlike trudge out the valley brought us back to more beers in the early evening. FA: Abiel Peak, "Spindrift Daze" III, AI3+ Kurt Hicks, Matt Cusack, Bob Masasi blue - 1984 route orange - Spindrift Daze yellow - North Face Direct Green - North Face Couloir Only the lower half of the routes are visible. Gear Notes: Gear to 2" pins (mostly LAs, Angles) 10 screws Approach Notes: I-90, exit 47. Annette Lake Trailhead, go up the valley bottom to the face. 3 hours. no flotation needed.

nice.

nice work! Zig Zag is fun. small gear would have allowed a more direct line w/o rope drag or just extend those out of line placements with a sling. The first pitch dihedral is sweet for the grade, but too short. Combine that with the Springboard for a fun moderate route on the Eriehorn. looks like a fun day out!

rope drag

Full size pics in my gallery. buyer pays shipping, though I will be in North Bend a couple days next week for you west siders. ArcTerryx Nozone. size small (but fits like a Khamsin medium). the alpine pack. comes with framesheet and custom bivy pad replacement. narrow climbing hipbelt only (though it takes a variety of belts from other packs if you got one to switch out). a bit of surface wear, but no major holes or anything. $80 North Face Stamina - women's medium. good backpacking pack, about 50L, I think. comes with a summit/daypack and a crampon/probe pack that attach to the outside. good condition, some wear at the bottom of one of the stays, but it's not going anywhere. $70 Camelback Rim Runner daypack. about 1500cu in, i think. nearly new, only been out a handful of times. comes with bladder. $45 22cm BD screw. - SOLD

most of the things around these parts are. remiscent of things in the eastern part of the Gorge (east of Biggs; which, by the way, are still iced up to some extent as of yesterday)

new adze too. and a spot to clip in a spring leash (if grivel decides to start making them again) without doing any strange mods to it.

The Dayton Gully

sweet stuff! any timeline on those from someone who was at the show?

nice splitter in Omak! what's it go at?

is any of the ice in on Table?

add that to the WA ice guide!

tuft pullin' at Smiff! felt like mid 60's in the sun!

I've seen it before. Ask Kevin Pogue to see if he's done it. good to hear that it's in.