kurthicks

not true. i did the 50% off this afternoon.

found a solo fleece glove up on the ridge above the black buttes camp yesterday. PM me if it's yours. if you also left the 2 'amp' energy drink cans, wag bag, and miscellaneous trash, then you won't be getting the glove back.

nwhikers.net

Please post the photos Tony. I'm interested, but will be booked (except this friday) until September 1. is it the old Kloke guidebook? if so, i'd love a copy of it.

just carry one rope and do more raps. they're off of fixed stations. OR go on a weekend and share ropes with another party for the raps.

?, Ivan, Jens

dermatone z-cote. kind of greasy but it works!

yes, but don't do it.

pay the ticket, of course. you may or may not get it put on your record or insurance. I got a ticket in Maine once (while I had an OR license), in a rental car, and it didn't go on my record in OR (or WA, when I got a license here)...but I think I got lucky. In your case, I probably wouldn't go to court because they may ask you for the reg/ins info again and then cite you for not getting a WA driver's license when you moved here (which you have 30 days to do legally). this may help too: http://www.dol.wa.gov/driverslicense/ my best advice though is to slow down and not have to worry about tickets in the first place, especially after long days in the alpine.

Casa is still kicking in the 'ham

it's as good as it sounds. 2 years on mine so far (probably about 100 nights) and it's still as good as new. the zipper tends to get stuck if you're not careful though.

I had the same thing happen to a red C3. apparently BD is going to make a trigger replacement kit for them (but how would you do it in the field?) but not until next season.

'tis craig peak. it lies somewhat south of Ice lake. the rock is granite on the east ridge (5th class granite in oregon, no way!) but it looks like there are some easier routes on the other faces and ridges.

We found 2 chopped ropes (by rockfall?) low on the North face yesterday. PM me if they are yours and i'll return them if you still want them. hope everyone got down OK... Kurt

basically do we have to drive in from Silverton (the north) or come up from 2 (the south)?

well, i don't dave. make me one and i'll give it a shot.

mark (and john and Roj and everyone else), tell BD to start making a spring leash.

hoping to head in there tomorrow... any beta on the best way to get there (as I heard that the road is closed somewhere)? any idea of the amount of snow, if any, on the approach? thanks, Kurt

one of the 5.8 routes left of sky ridge at Smiff.

ckouba and i climbed it wednesday of last week. we passed the schrund on the left side. it was unprotectable, short of burying a picket about 10' below the crux moves. ckouba leading the step in question.

yep. Colin and Mark were just kicking it at 14k when I left. They were busy scrounging food, skiing, and telling all sorts of inappropriate, but hillarious, jokes. The forecast was wrong nearly every day we were at 14k (calling for bad wx, but getting good wx), so no one was really going for big routes until Jedi and Evan went over to the Cassin. the boys were right at home chatting it up with all the ladies that were unfortunate enough to walk by...

take your bike Bala!

as of yesterday, the sherpa still goes pretty easily and does not require a jump or rappel. we downclimbed easy snow over a bridge right in the middle of the schrund. the ice cliff schrund is only passable, and probably not for much longer, on the left side. the rock up there looks pretty dry... lots of mosquitos out!

sahale - quien sabe glacier, but you'll have to walk the road (good training though)