kurthicks

Ivy, I think...not harmless. Oak is glossier from what I remember.

Bear canisters are the only NPS approved option these days...a bother on technical climbing for sure, especially given that bears will not be up on the T-F Traverse (or Jberg, NR Forbidden, etc). Rodents on the other hand... You can suggest comments to the NPS for on-route/uber-high bivy food securing options: noca_wilderness@nps.gov Thanks for the tracks, BTW. Quoted document below ------- Backcountry Food Storage: Update of Policy, April 2012 To protect visitors and wildlife and to provide for clear food storage direction, during 2011 the National Park Service proposed phasing in the mandatory use of approved portable hard-sided food storage canisters for certain areas (not the entire park) by 2012. During the summer of 2011, however, many issues were raised that do not yet have resolution (for example, the efficacy of Ursack products, electric fences, etc.). Some of these issues are currently being researched and tested, and thus implementation of canister requirements are being delayed until there is greater clarification and resolution on these issues. Thus, park regulations for proper food storage remain unchanged. Currently there are only two approved methods for storing your food and scented items in the backcountry: hanging (minimum 10 feet off the ground, 4 feet from any tree limb or trunk) or using an approved hard-sided container. Ursacks and electric fences are not currently approved as proper food storage devices on their own. Ursack products have been shown to fail with both bears and rodents. The latest Ursack model, with aluminum liner, is being considered for approval, as are electric fences, but neither method is approved at this time. There are many camping areas where it is either exceedingly difficult or completely impossible to hang food properly. In many of these areas food storage violations have resulted in wildlife that is becoming conditioned to human food. Proper food storage in the wilderness is essential to safeguarding the health and safety of visitors and wildlife, and is crucial to maintaining the park’s wilderness character. Human food is an attractive source of calories for many animals, including rodents, marmots, goats, bears, deer, etc. Areas under consideration for mandatory food storage canisters include: Desolation, Fireweed, Fisher, Hooter, Junction, Monogram, North Fork, Pierce Mountain, Sahale Glacier, Sourdough, Thornton Lakes, Thunder Basin, Trapper Inlet, and Whatcom camps as well as Boston Basin, Hidden Lake, and Tapto cross-country zones. These areas have been selected for one or more of the following factors: 1) hanging food is either very difficult or impossible due to the nature of the vegetation or lack of trees suitable for hanging; 2) wildlife have obtained food from a hang and have become human-food-conditioned, making hanging food risky and merely a delaying mechanism; and 3) presence of bears and/or other wildlife is high. To provide feedback or to discuss comments, questions or concerns, please contact the Wilderness Information Center at (360) 854-7245 or email noca_wilderness@nps.gov.

Oops, I meant Middle Sister via the northern approach. I think it comes from the Santiam Highway. Good catch Matt.

In Oregon: South Sister Middle Sister In Washington: Mt. Daniels via the Daniels Glacier Colchuck Peak via the Colchuck Glacier Both have easy, on-trail approaches, feature snow travel, and have great camping spots. Neither have crevasse issues to deal with typically.

Thanks for the recommendation Dan. I was in touch with him and, unfortunately, our schedules aren't going to match up this season. Just a reminder for folks looking to hire private guides and instructors -- be sure that the person you choose has insurance and federal operating permits. This usually, though not always, means that you have to book the trip through a larger guide service (AAI, NCMG, NMS, PGS, etc). Each of those companies provide the option for private one-on-one instruction.

maybe that'll be me. It looks like fun. I'll even throw some new anchors in on top too when I do it!

I pronounce it "hallway," "passageway," or sometimes "corridor."

There are bolted anchors from the summit. I think two single rope raps to reach the west ridge, then scramble down the ridge, right on the crest, for a ways until you reach a few more single rope raps (I recall the first one being near a stunted tree or small bush) that lead down to the scree below the west ridge.

My thoughts exactly Sol. I'm even willing to haul the gear up there and fix a couple lines from the top and give it a good scrub and pruning. My time is short too, until at least the end of July. If even I get to this project this year, it won't happen until at least September.

Colin is up at 14k on Denali, so it couldn't have been him if it happened in the last few days. The weather has been pretty bad above 14k lately, but the snow conditions around base camp are actually pretty good.

My vote is to remove the old 1/4"ers, drill them out to 3/8", and throw some new shiny stainless in there.

I'm planning on tackling some more projects this summer, but as Gene noted, I've been in Alaska for two months. Some of the things on my list include MJ Dihedral, the pitch 1 anchor on Outer Space, the gendarme bypass on Stuart, and Tooth & Claw. It's laborious work with the hand drill in Wilderness. Let's keep the discussion going!

Both routes on the Beard probably fit the bill. a couple cams would open up your options a great deal.

partner found. fingers crossed for dryness!

Looks like it will be mostly dry tomorrow. Anyone want to get some LTW action? Hoping to get in a bunch of pitches. PM me or email kurthicksATgmailDOTcom. Cheers!

i think I saw some on the bulletin board on Tuesday. maybe it was them?

i'd love to, but I've gotta work. let me know what you find up there, good skiing or otherwise!

Been out climbing rock over 25 days already Alex. I want more local alpinism before it's all gone. Any beta on the NF of Snoqualmie? How about travel conditions?

and conditions pretty much suck from the sound of it. maybe I should look elsewhere.

Anyone been out on Chair or the NF of Snoqualmie recently?

is the road still gated? how much of it is melted out?

I thought about welding it, but someone will get it out. Might take a funkness or a hacksaw though.

Fast 'n light Gene...Fast 'n light for A) those who have never had a serious crevasse fall or B) never practiced rescue in a real crack or C) by those who are actually dialed or D) by ski mountaineers who are relying on skis and a deep snowpack to prevent a serious fall or E) folks whom just think you're just supposed to carry a rope 'cause ya know, yer on a glacier.

A number of moderate cracks can be top roped on the Sunshine Wall. Use care accessing the anchors near the edge. That said, the cracks at Frenchman are rarely splitter cracks and you might find yourself 'cheating' by using the face holds.

It depends on the likelihood of a significant crevasse fall. Would I use a half rope in Alaska? No, since falls are likely and often severe. Would I use one on mellow glacier routes in Washington? Sure, some of the time. I generally take an 8.9mm to 9.2mm dry-treated single for most of my stuff in Washington as the little weight increase is worth it for ease of rescue and the ability to use the rope for technical pitches (like on the North Ridge of Baker, for example). As for length, I can honestly say that I never go on a glacier with less than 40m of rope and I usually take a 50 or 60, even for a team of 2. Go practice crevasse rescue on a snowbank this spring with a half rope and a single and decide for yourself before you buy.