glassgowkiss

2 things, first of all monitor your resting heart rate (take your reading before you move out of bed). if it is going up you are overtraining. the best leg excercise i found was cramponing up 50-60 deree slopes. killer combo for strength and aerobic fitness. more fun too. i mean, unless you are a competitive downhill skier how much power do you need? (specially for climbing) add some core excerices. a fitness trainer designed a program once for me. most of the excercises i had to do using one leg, to force core muscles to fire. had to go down with loads about 30-40%. but in reality i felt much, much stronger, as i wasn't able to compensate, i had to keep perfect form.

buy my

yes it would be. but.... right before climbing. there is a period of adjustment for your nervous system. more you do it, shorter the time. but this is also the reason why athletes don't receive deep body work 24 hours before competitions. when i work on someone before any comps i just work with what they have, just loosen things up. i had several people showing up right before seattle or vancouver marathons for the past couple and asking me to help with their problems- they were very surprised to find out that it's too late and it's better to go with what they have. anyway- i have my reservation towards yoga as post injury modality, or to put it better with yoga instructors. my experience is that unfocused instructor can do more harm then good.

my point, if there is ice.

yeah, looked up the weather for this week/weekend. it's 1C right now in town. it's supposed to be up to +7 through this week and periods of rain/showers. maybe bring your fins and snorcle, as we are receiving another serving of pnw suck. and here is the link http://www.weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/forecast/city_e.html?WKF

jon, i also wanted to point out one more thing. this what you are describing is a very common condition. the tightness and injury/chronic condition development happens over a long period of time, so it is hard to notice. the changes are very slow, but over a period of few years they add up. very often i see this, when someone comes to my office and they say: "i lifted this or i tried to reach for... and my back went out". the truth is that this was the event that pushed the tissues over the edge. but in reality there were hundreds or thousands of these little things leading to the described conditions. even with injuries caused by external force (like our own inertia or other object projecting force onto our body) the areas that get injured are the areas that were pre-disposed, ie weak and deconditioned.

and they don't talk back

stretching does work and prevents injuries and this is why. when you excercise you condition your muscles and connective tissues. if your Range Of Motion (ROM) is decreased you will not condition the tissues properly, hence you are risking injury. there are 2 main reasons one would have a decrease in ROM. 1. antagonistic muscles are too tight 2. agonistic muscles are too weak ie take hip flextion, either your hip extensors (mostly Gluteus muscles and hamstings) are too tight or hip flexors are too weak (like Illiopsoas and Rectus Femoris), or combination of both (and most likely script) now working with athletes this is what i noticed. warm up properly, slowly. it takes at least 15-20 minutes for the tissues to reach the optimal temperature to work. following warm up some gentle ROM excercise, but not stretching. stretching changes proprioceptors setting in the muscles, so your stride might change ot you'll be reaching for a hold and reach too far or too short. you should always stretch after the excercise. strech the muscle groups and specific muscles or even specific heads of the muscles. let your body cool of slowly. the most common cause of injury among the "weekend athlete" crowd: i see is very high level of excercise followed by no movement through the day. so for all of you fitness junkies with desk jobs- early morning workouts suck. you go to the gym for 90 minutes or more, then you take a shower, jump into a car and then sit on your ass in fron of the computer all day long (obviously if you are reading this at work you are just another cc sprayer with a worthless job). get a clue. it takes at least 90-120 minutes for the tissue to cool off, hence the best time to excercise would be mid afternoon. there are some good points, but there is a lot of sucky misconceptions here too. first of all- a myth #1 is to hold stretches for 20 seconds or more. this is plain not true. there is something called a stretch muscle reflex. after a few seconds a structure being stretched will strart contracting to bring the body into a neutral position. so doing the 10 stretches held for 4-5 seconds will reset your proprioceptors way faster then holding the stretch for 20 seconds or more. second- stretching passivly- wrong again! The best results are with active system. there is a physiological relationship between antagonist and agonist (muscle contracting and performing movement). while the agonist contracts the antagonist MUST stay relaxed. take your arm and simple arm curls. if you contract your Brachialis (Biceps Brachii is only a secondary mover in elbow flexion) the triceps has to be disengaged and stay relaxed. remember we live in a field of gravity (isn't that a bitch), so even your own body parts will create resistance and create agonist/antagonist relationship. as to specific stretches i would consider #1 & #3 by adventuregal down right dangerous. v- stretch done like that makes no sense. don't lean forward- stay upright and bring your knees toward the flor by contracting your gluteus muscles. you are trying to stretch you proximal adductors not your low back. for low back stratch lay down on your back and bring each knee towards the same side arm pit 10 times hold for 4-5 secons. each leg seperate and then both @the same time, also 10 times. so you are contracting your abdominal muscles (remember agonist/antagonist relationship, class?) #3,omfg!!!!! don't do that one for sure or you'll have to see an orthopedic surgeon if you have any shoulder problems. instead, clasp your hands behind your back and keep your elbows straight. if you have hard time doing this use a towel or a pillow case or a sling. now bring your scapulas (shoulder blades) towards the spine and raise your arms behind your back as far as you can. as far as books go- screw this guy Anderson, this book is like 30 years old and so outdated. it will get you injured sooner then you think and you'll be on my table asking for mercy while i have to cross fiber the crap out your injury site. the book that should become bible of stretching is by Aaron Mattes "Active Isolated Stretching". this guy did his homework. he worked for over 30 years with pro sport teams, has Phd in physilogy, is a pt and massage therapist. i did take his workshop and this guy is the real works and knows his stuff. i give these stretches to people every day and after 4 years i am sold on this system. exept few add-ons on my own i would have to say you are wasting your time doing anything else as far as stretching. you can design a 10 minute model addressing all the weak/tight areas. this will decerase your chances of injury by i would say like 50%. a few people from this site experienced my work first hand and maybe they can confirm my ideas and approach.i also did advise a few of you via phone and usually i was pretty much right on target. i am saying this for one reason only. i did managed to post a fair number of spray, but i am very serious about this post and it should be viewed as such. be healthy, crank hard ps, sorry about spelling and all, but it is 11pm and i am still at work writing this. some of the posts torqued me enough to take my time and write this. PP- don't stretch in the morning with cold muscle!again- the recepie for an injury.

thinner ropes, more mess. i use 8.5 for that reasonspecially if you climb 3 people.

well you can have a bunch of things. you can have a simple triceps pull. but you also might have nerve pinched by peck minor or scalenes muscle. actually don't ignore it, find out what it is. from the symtoms you are describing might be more of a nerve issue. might be triceps tendon tendonitis. so there is no clear guidelines for this, untill you find out what it is. if it's a nerve, don't use ice. it's the only time the ice would not be recommended. my advice is don't look for advice on internet. go and haver it checked out. i would not go to a regular family practice md. rather then that go to sport medicine doc, pt, dc.

so a couple of my friends and i are heading to littlewet for new year bash. fueled by eveclear, siwucha and sliwowica with a huge supply of fireworks from reservation we are heading north to kick ass and chew bubble gum (we are all out of bubble gum). the entertainment will be provided by the local drunks singing to a careokie machine, lighting your own farts on fire. we are also trying to invite this couple. they are going through a divorce. the plan is to get them into to the room equiped with dull butter knives and watch them slowly kill each other , no not really, but it sounds like a neat idea. so who else?

whatzup with this banning shit? do we have a bunch of trigger happy wana-be gey-scouts? get over yourself wankers. swearing always was and will be part of the language.

you mean the low angle choss heaps? WHO CARES!!!!

don't like climbing in the rain with water running on ice. call it old age. dru, there is always the current temp from littlewet on that website and it is very close to the predicted temps in the recent few weeks. actually looks like pemberton/whistler might be better.

wow, now that's the most sexist stetement i have read here in a long time. this is internet and this is spray. doesn't matter male or female. if you dish it out, be ready to take the heat. in 10 years there won't be guys and chicks, there is going to be just wankers.

like wtf has trask anything to do with this?

not quite . i looked at penticton and it sucks too.

from weather office in canada: Lillooet: Issued 5.00 AM pst Thursday 11 December 2003 Today .. Cloudy with sunny periods. High zero. Tonight .. Cloudy. Flurries beginning this evening. Low minus 2. Friday .. Flurries ending in the morning then cloudy. High plus 2. Saturday .. Periods of snow. Low minus 4. High plus 5. Sunday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of flurries. Low minus 1. High plus 2. Monday .. A mix of sun and cloud. Low minus 2. High plus 3. Normals for the period .. Low minus 5. High plus 1. so what happened to these -8C predicted 2 days ago. this shit sucks. can't plan anything more then 2 days ahead.

don't know, since i don't have a tv. i know you can get episodes on dvd. no commericials! and chicks on that show

go some other place?

no, i am done with the rockies for the season.

lot's of work, like a whole 10 minutes!you must have money pouring out of your ass. i go through about 2 pairs of gloves a season, so even with a wholesale price from bd it would cost me $140-160. add about 3 sets of picks a season, new crampons every other year and i need to start robbing banks to pay for all that shit. the reason your hands do get colder with your thick gloves/mitts is simple. your forearm muscles work very hard to hang on to the tools, so they cut off your blood circulation to your hand.

fuck galactica! watch lexx- the most destructive force in both univerces! the whole show is like space soft porn! that show rocks! watching lexx and the army of darkness made my trip to the rockies again.

i learned in life, try and try again. so since off-whitie censored my post i will try again. marylou- you called me an asshole some time ago. well, i am , so what. newsflash you are a real bitch (at least here on this site, you might be nice in real life). if you suck cock as good as you bitch i want to be your man. then again, like 90% of females in the pnw you are most likely fat, ugly and pale, so my general would not salute for you. ciao

like everyone in canmore i use rubber palm construction gloves for dry-tooling. best grip and since you don't work with your forearm as hard, your hands don't get as cold. $3.99 at your local hardware store. i just use regular ski gloves. mountain hardware makes good cheap gloves. with your ski gloves you can use seam-seal to make a better palm. put seam seal into hot water. then paint it onto the surface. pour some large grain lalt or sugar to add texture and then wash it off with water in few hours. for dry-tooling like i said- your hardware store has insulated gloves used in construction. just buy like 3 or 4 pairs, so when they get wet you can change them. a pair of warm fleece gloves with mittens from mec will get you through the colder days. the $100 shoeller gloves is nothing but marketing hype.