glassgowkiss

screamers suck. once they rip, they shock load the piece, hence the chance of it ripping is bigger. ropes absorb more and specially the skinny half ropes. black diamond did a lot of testing and they decided not to make screamers for the mentioned reasons.sreamers are just another climbing myth, just like placing screws 10 degrees up. for decades every book was presenting screws to go up and guess what? in good ice 10 degrees down holds much more force. so putting lockers on the screamers is one of the most retardo thing i have heard in a long time

field usually is into april, sometimes may. i did professors on may 2nd too. shades of beauty. slipstream lasta till may/ june. for cool alpine check andromeda strain, asteroid alley, sidestreet should be in too. watch out for avalanches. menditory early starts. also murchinsons will be in (no avi danger there) riptide should be in too. Bow Falls also. i will be there till 15th, so i will update what's in by then. ciao- r terminator approach ice is in and connected with postscriptum will give you a pretty long day. that face is in the shade all day long. nemesis will be in, sourcerer and hydro still should be in also. anyway, the point is that mar 20th isn't all that late for the rockies, so you should be able to climb plenty. for a long day try to go to helmet falls.

did reg nw 3 times. hiked in one time over the back trail- it sucks! use slab approach for sure. depending how big is your pack it takes from 1 hour to 3 hours. the route can be done by a competent party in 8- 10 hours at leasurly pace. if you hurry you can do it in 6. chimney pitches can be done as one with 70m rope (3 pitches in one). they are a grunt, but quite easy. do it in a day, hauling on this wall would suck ass. there is a lot of low angle, broken up rockand it would take a huge effort to do it. in the spring/summer it is warm enough to sleep without bivi gear if you need to.

so if you haven't noticed by now spring is creeping in and everything getting sun is suffering big time. Syncro- ramp pitch is gone, pretty much all of the climbs on that wall are not recommended. Carls berg is still in fine shape (at least looked from the road). Red Wall Wondrer is an awsome route- highly recommended. just watch out for wet snow slides into the approach gully, the route itself is rather safe. The crux pillar had some interesting climbing up ice chimney to a steep sheet of plastic one hit hero ice. the last 5m (last pitch) kind of fell of as we were climbing on it, it is still possible to finish it though. 4 full 60 m raps will get you down. first 2 off trees, then rap past the crux pillar to a v-thred (to avoid rope geting stuck don't use the bolt anchor at the base of pitch 3) and then to the ground. climb doesn't see any sun, so it should last another week or so. imo it is one of the best lines around littlewet.

i can see it. this guy is climbing like forever, making FA left and right. climbing IS his job. this guy has one of the most impressive climbing resume's out there. from patagonia, thrugh peru and chile alps, rockies, you name it. remember back in '86 article about his trip to canadian rockies. pillsner, weeping pillar, takkakaw, polar circus in a span of a week. and these guys (him and RIP Perroux) didn't even know where these lines were (way before guide by josephson)

i would advice to find partners you know and you can get along. going with people met on internet for several weeks might turn into a little house of horros if you catch my drift. go do a smaller trip, you'll meet people with similar goals.

littlewet is getting more then littlewet. spring like temps even in marble and on duffy lake rd. marble has still a lot of ice. i tr'd a couple of projects on sun. (due to a lack of drill). i am going back there to bolt these lines next week. red wall wondrer is still in. a lot of climbs in the sun are falling off or falling apart. eagle ears has much less ice (solid m7) and no, really is still in too. snow coditions are better, but n facing slopes have plenty of white to cause slides. most of s. facing slopes already ripped. if the temps stay like this there is not going to be much ice left within days.

hey figure 8 did you get at least bj for a good deed? u deserved a knober

going sun/mon. husume would be a good place, since da days are longer. las monday it was below freezing all day long.

rudy, the point is that my climbing level is not relevant in this topic. i just think book by Gullich (was translated into english) is much, much better. it also gives training routines and tells why. so if you are going to spend time and money on training this would be better source of info.

i have my private stash and i am not selling- sorry. as the matter of fact i bought some in poland this summer. a key to protecting turf. good luck

96! there were 3 lines going up last 2 winters. and on the top there are some active projects at this point. but the place is has easy access, hard climbing and is the best alpine training i found so far around here.

in the past couple of years several hight quality mixed lines went up around whistler/hope/duffy/marble. yesterday i had a chance to get my ass completly kicked on husume buttress (sp?) above black comb glacier. "29 forever" was the first route there, it would be a complete nightmare during snowfall, as big spindrift was pouring out of all the gullies yeaterday (quite heavy snowfall). skiing with leather boots and a pack is sucky. the climbs are a complete scratch fests, so no need for screws. full set of cams, stoppers, some pins are in order. there are 5 or 6 climbs on that buttress, with several variations. 29 forever is the easiest. they are no bolts, so be ready to battle with gear. don, you should include this area in your guide, since the access is so easy. to buy a back country pass (32.10cdn) you are required to show a snow showel, avalanche beacon, skins and a probe. one note- these pitches take several hours to lead, so it would be very hard to do a complete line in one day. at 6000ft elevation and facing north they will stay in shape way into sping the farm is a very good crag to get strong and fit. you access it from a ski run. Jia was busy on Duffy. In Right Rambles he did 2 new high quality routes. the top dihedral has 6 bolts now. there is number of climbs waiting for fa.

hey Lowell, i'd like to straighten this out with the accident on slipstream. i was at rampart at the time and even though i did not witness the accident myself i talked to two wardens, who were dealing with it. there was a cornice fracture indead. but it is not sure if it was the cause of that accident. back in '93 there was one of the worst snow conditions in years. there was almost 5 weeks of -30C or lower, snow was real shit. facets and all. avalanche forecast was high for several weeks. party started climbing slipstream only 2 or 3 days after snowfall. this route is very dangerous due to the fact, that snow from the icefield accumulates into 2 bowls on that route. from what was known to me at that time it looked like a slab was released by the climbers themselves. according to the warden back then it was bad judgment call to get on slipstream at that time. to put things into perpective- rockies have very specific climat and snow pack is one of the most danderous features. after having two very close calls i would urge people to use the most conservative judgment calls as far as route destination. a little math: 1m3 of wet snow weighs almost 1000kg. let's take a small slope about 20mx10m with 10cm snow. that gives 20 cubic meters of snow. that's 20 000kg usually traveling about 100- 160km/h. to put it into simple terms it would be like getting hit by a locomotive travelling between 60-100mph. anyway, enough ramblings

why bivi? it's only 12 pitches long and the majority of the route can be climbed at 5.9/10. start early and you can do it in a day.

i galnced over this and other publications. still on the top of my list is a book written by Gullich. besides the title itself- how to climb 5.12 is stupid. 5.12 is not hard by modern standards. so wtf would you spend money on something, that will not teach you how to climb hard? i can't stand when people say he/she is a good climber- they climb 11's. anyway enough ranting.

check some issues of aaj. saw some info from brits climbing there a year or two ago.

after almost getting a chop on fine line direct i don't go under any snow slopes if it is sunny and warm. and "considerable" means, that avalanche is something to consider. and back then the avi danger was moderate.

maybe, but the service sucks. last time we were waiting 45 minutes to get beer! i am never going back there again. besides- it's not the point. the point is that everybody is complaining about this injury and every other tweak. in the meantime i spent like 10 hours preping for this thing, about $30 in copies and only 2 people showed up. i guess life is so boring around here, that talking and bitching about injuries keeps people occupied.

after last night i am convinced 99% people in the PNW want to only eat, get fat and complain. there were only 2 people at footworx last night. in the meantime bob's burger and brew was packed, of course there was a flyer in the window informing about a free clinic. imo people in the pnw are stupid, fat, not interested in doing anything. maybe that's the reason it's so hard to find decent climbing partners too.

it's called redline and 165cm (i think). if interested i can mail u some picks.

whatever was there is melting fast since sat. i bet it's all shit by now

don't know about pdx, since nobody even bothered to return my phone call. if someone wants to organize this- it would be fine with me. it is a 5 hour drive for me, so it's kind of hard to wing it.

Footworx- in Bellingham. 2930 Newmarket Rd Suite 117. near Haagen's. phone 360.676.WORX

thursday feb 12 7pm at Footworx in Barkley village. a free clinic on lower body injuries and injury prevention. presented by Robert Rogoz LMP and William Cummings DC. there will be a presentation on the most common conditions and time for Q/A. fun and informative way to learn something about your body.FREE!!!!! March 29th at Vertical World 7:30 pm. a workshop covering most common conditions caused by climbing. how to recognize then, what to do and how to avoid them. questions regarding your own problems will be addressed personally and professionally. have questions, get answers. for information and registration please call Vertical World in Ballard 206.283.4497. please pre-register early, so the event will not get cancelled.